A rollover scraper with minimum

[MJPetersen]

Made a little bit of progress on the imitation Gannon. I put in the top link tower and started on the mechanism for changing positions. But with the toplink finished (almost--I want to add some webbing for strength) I could not resist hooking it up to see how the proportions look. Tell me what you think. To me it looks better than I thought it might and it is not as heavy as the tiller yet. My front end stayed on the ground.

Do you think that your wives would let you work on the front deck of the house? It makes a great nice big work bench, so I do not have to be on my knees all the time. And it is level and I can get the tractor up there to help move that heavy thing around now.

Have a great Sunday,

Mike in Warsaw

 

[MJPetersen]

Renze,

I asked today at the steel yard how much per kilo for steel and they said that round stock is a little less and profile (angle, square etc) is a bit more but the average is about 3.50 PLN That makes it about .87 Euro cents per kilo. How does that sound compared to your part of europe? I have not been buying long enough to be able to compare to the "good ole days."

Mike in Warsaw

 

[RichT]

Do you mean that if the center tooth broke that you would have to pull the rod out and thereby dropping several teeth before you got to the one that you wanted? You cannot pull them individually?

Mike

Correct...haven't had any break, I usually change them all at once.

 

[Renze]

Renze,

I asked today at the steel yard how much per kilo for steel and they said that round stock is a little less and profile (angle, square etc) is a bit more but the average is about 3.50 PLN That makes it about .87 Euro cents per kilo. How does that sound compared to your part of europe? I have not been buying long enough to be able to compare to the "good ole days."

Mike in Warsaw

Mike,

For me, the "good ole days" was about 3 years ago... I just started using new steel when it became available cheap to me.. That was when i started working in 2001 at a structural steel construction company as employed studying, 3 days of work (all payd !!!) and 2 days of school, in the last 2 years of the technical engineering school. After the traineeship at the construction company, i worked in the stainless steel kitchen industry, in a service shop of a national road construction machinery contractor and a cheese factory...

Last month, the saturday before easter, i sold a cart of scrap. At that time the price was 14 Eurocents. The scrap trader that comes at our company said that the price dropped since then, which means that the new steel prices must have dropped as well.

closed profiles like tubes, round or square, are somewhere near 1 euro per kilo. Open profiles like angle, IPE, UNP and HE-A profiles are usually 15%
cheaper per kilo.
I dont know the netto prices we pay at our company but for rod and flatbar, i suppose it must be closer to what you mentioned.

 

[MJPetersen]

Sorry for the long break here. I have company that is helping me do some things at the church like a handicap ramp and new steps, so that has taken priority. I have had an opportunity to use the blade some. But that is getting things out of order.

I fabricated the latching mechanism. It was kind of tricky getting the pieces all lined up with a shaft that was slightly bent. But I think that it will work now. I used my die grinder with a carbide bit to clean up the holes so that it turns nicely in the supports.

Next I made the notches in the latch mechanism and rounded the end. I placed the latch notch at the pivot point. My pivot point is in the center, but Rich's is located significantly off center. Probably that gives a better balance to the blade, as mine when I pull the handle it very positively swings to the scarifier position. I do not have a spring on the latch mechanism, and when I was roading the tractor the bounces released the latch and allowed the blade to swing down. When working I have not had that problem.

After I had the notches I welded in the blocks that the latch catches on. I welded the blocks for the 2 positions of dozer mode and scraper mode. I did not weld on the scarifier mode blocks yet because I cannot find any scarifiers and want to see them and establish what angle I want them to be, before I weld on the positioning blocks.

Before I can test it out I need to weld in the scarifier supports and cross members for the the strengthening that it will give the blade.

Mike in Warsaw

 

[MJPetersen]

I knew that I was going to have an opportunity to put the scraper to use at Church with the quests that I have helping in some remodeling. We put in a handicap ramp and new steps up to the entrance. I used the dirt scoop that I made to carry sand and rock to the mixer. When I ran out of sand that I had saved for the purpose, I dug a hole with the dirt scoop and scooped up some sand for the project.

Today I needed to fill in that hole and bury some huge chunks of concrete. I put the scraper on and pushed the sand and dirt into the hole. It worked great!! Made me feel like I was sitting on the D-9h again with a big U blade!! I am very happy and look forward to learning more about how to use this implement. It did make me wish for a hyd toplink though

The pictures show both the scraper mode and the dozer mode Whe I find or make some scarifiers I will post pics of that too. You can see in the second pic that I have the slots for the scarifiers all ready.

I need to add the webbing for the topllink mast and bracing for the scarifiers on the back of the blade.

Have a great Lord's day

Mike in Warsaw

 

[MJPetersen]

With the guests I was not able to work on my project for the past couple of weeks, but I was able to get some time on in this week. I mostly had to add webbing for strength for the scarifiers, but I have not been able to locate the scarifier shanks locally so I made some from mild steel, but will hard face them. My welding shop neighbor knows where I can get the rod, and if my machine will not handle it --he will do it for me. (He just got a new tig machine for doing stainless. he specializes in it and really does works of art.)

These pics show the webbing of the scarifiers front and back. This will also add lots of strength to blade in scraper mode. Notice too that I closed in the open 3 pt mast too a bit to strengthen it.

I was having so much fun adding the new scarifier position that I added a position opposite of the scarifiers, where the scarifiers stick straight up. I do not know what to put there though. I have a couple of ideas, but am open to suggestions.

Mike in Warsaw

 

[Renze]

Mike, i took your advice and bought a complete set of hole saws. From 17mm to 57 mm, all in inch sizes. Though metric might seem easier in Europe, i use them in the farm workshop, and the 3pt hitch standardised dimensions are all based on inch dimensions. So i have everything i need
The 500 watt drill press with 12 speeds, makes light work of drilling. It's easier to cut a 22mm hole with the hole saw, than to drill 6mm and then use the 21mm spiral drill, because it jams and spins the belt on my machine.
I bought a set in an aluminum case, with a small flask of cutting oil, for about 100 Euro. It's HSS steel and it is a quality brand. I was there on a saturday, and when the salesman mentioned a price, i said that when i bought from my boss i'd get the discount. Then he asked who my boss is, and gave me the 30% discount of the company.

I'd say hole saws are a great solution if you have a light drill press. 28mm spiral drills of industrial quality, cost as much as the complete set of industrial quality hole saws. The little drawback of hole saws is that you cant drill blind holes but have to drill through. not any problem at all for farmshop fabrication.

 

[MJPetersen]

Renze,

I am glad that you like them. I would feel very badly if you thought that they stunk!! They really are easier than regular drills in larger sizes. I read that anything over 3/4 inch (19 mm) that a hole saw is easier--and less expensive.

Sounds like the price was good too. Someone gave me a set of saws from 22 - 67 mm that until now I had only used for wood. This project has convinced me that they can actually be used for metal too. But when I wanted 24mm (15/16) to fit standard metric bolt, it was not in the set. My set has 22 mm and then 29 mm (not even the 1 in (25mm). So when I went to buy just a 24 the style of arbor did not match what I had. So I had to get a new arbor too. I still think that it was less expensive than a 24 mm regular drill bit. Mine just came in a simple plastic case.

You have a better setup than I with a nice drill press. my big drill motor turns faster than what is proper for the saws. May you have many years of good service from them.

Mike in Warsaw

 

[BTDT]

Mike, great job on the fabrication. Looks like a real timesaver, too. Nothing like a "multi-tool" for the tractor. Do you find that you wished you had of made it bigger/smaller, does your tractor handle it ok?