A rollover scraper with minimum

[MJPetersen]

great Job Mike, do you have any sketches you could share, have to make one now to save changing time switching

Laurence

Thanks. You know I really do not have many sketches. I have one that I will scan and try to give some dimensions. I believe that mine would be adequate to 25 hp, but believe that everything could be scaled to a bit larger if you needed.

I centered my rotating pivot, but if you check posts #6, 19 you will see that rich has a Gonnon that is 40 inches wide but the pivot points are not in the center of the side plates. Probably his has a better balance and does not rotate so decisively to the ripper position. Mine rotates fine, but it may be that his is better. He said that Gannon was willing to custom make him one, so that may be an option if you have a dealer near by that you should try to talk to.

I know that it was not cheap. The side plates alone cost me about $100--altogether I have about $350 in it plus lots of time. i do not know what one would cost from Gannon.

I made mine for standard Cat 1 3pt and almost slavishly copied the design of the Gannon. You can get a few pictures from the parts manual on the Woods Equipment site. Box Scrapers Operator's Manuals

Since I built mine I discovered that Land Pride has a rollover too. Land Pride Box Scraper Manuals

I noticed the main element that rotates is actually flat on the two sides to assist in its operation as a box blade pushing and pulling. The height/depth ration I figur at about 80%. Therefore, my main box side plates are 60 cm by 48 cm. The main box is 120 cm wide (outside to outside) The main beam box is 10mm box with 4mm walls. The side plates are 15mm thick and the drag links and catch arm are 10mm. (I wish that i had used 15 mm thick for side arms. A bit stiffer especially for pushing.)

If I can be of any help or if you want to know a specific dimension ask and I will find it for you. I tried to scan my sketch, but it didn' want to. I need to darken it up a bit and try again, but not tonight.

Mike

 

[MJPetersen]

I have attached a scan of the sketch that I made for my imitation Gannon. I know that the quality is not the best, but it was the best I could do within the forum's restrictions. I managed to get it dark enough that you can see the squares in the drawing paper. The scale is about 1 inch per line (each square is 1 sq in.).

The blade and the top link mast were made from 6 mm (1/4) sheet. The blade was bent 20 degrees 15 cm (6 in) in from the edge on both edges.

If I can help with anything else just ask.

Mike

 

[MJPetersen]

I had a day to work on the imitation Gannon this week so I took the scarifiers to a friend for some hard facing (My tiny little welder does not have the omph necessary), but I finished boxing in the 3 pt mast for strength. I believe that it will hold 50 horses and not just my 15.

I sanded it all with a flap disk, sprayed some primer on it and then some Yanmar Red. I even put a model number on it. YM 4R for 4 feet width and R for Rollover. (R is still in the making) Makes sense anyway to me.

I am very happy with the result of my project and had a lot of fun building it--besides I have already used it to do some of the work for which I made it, as you can see in the pictures.

I hope that you have enjoyed following along and look forward to "seeing you" again in the near future. I need a small trailer to haul all my toys around on.

Have a good one,

Mike in Warsaw

 

[MikesTractor]

Fantastic job on the rollover. I also followed your dirt scoop. Great job there too. Now I want to see the trailer you are going to build to haul them.

Mike

 

[MJPetersen]

Thanks Mike,

I am waiting for my welder friend to get a couple of moments to put the hardfacing on my ripper shanks. Then I will put it all together and do something drastic to test it out. I couple of ideas, but we will see. I will take a picture of things all together.

I would like to start on the trailer right away, but I have a couple of other things that are taking priority and some honey-do's.

I know that the scarifiers really help when the ground is hard. I could not pull it when the 4 scarifiers were buried in the packed soil.

Mike in Warsaw

 

[em14]

Super Job Mike ...
Leo

 

[flusher]

Now that I have the big mounds of dirt cleared away on our church property with the scoop that I made, I need to smooth everything out for the parking area and lawn. The box blade seems to be the tool of choice for such tasks and I drew up some plans for a simple box blade.

However, in reading through the many box blade posts here in TBN I read about the Gannon rollover. The idea and versatility of such a box blade intrigued me. But when I researched them I found that they are HUGE! (35 in x 44 in) All of the models have the same roll over elements only the length of the blade is changed and the number of scarifiers. Obviously not suitable for a YM 1510D. (picture below)

From the specifications on the Woods web site I determined that the ratio between height and depth is about 80% so I drew up a plan for a rollover that is about 48 inches wide, 19 in high, and 24 inches deep. This is still probably a bit big for my tractor, but with the sand that we have here it might work.

I do not have any of the nicer tools that some of you have (I do not have a place for them if I had them and do not have the time for them if I had a place), so I thought that I would try to do this project to encourage others who like me have a minimum of tools. Welder <$100 buzz box, 4 in Dewalt angle grinder (cutting and shaping), and various other hand tools like drills and such.

So we will see how it goes. Any suggestions before it is too late?

In Warsaw,
Mike

These scoops/scrapers have a long history. 100 years ago they were called "fresnos".

See

American Society of Civil Engineers - San Francisco Section - Heavy Equipment?

 

[mjncad]

Excellent work on the rollover blade MJPetersen!

It's nice to see I'm not the only one who uses hole saws on my steel fabrication projects.

I've cut holes up to 3-1/2" in diameter through 1/2" steel on my Jet 17" drill press. Milwaukee suggests a speed of about 65RPM as I recall; but my drill press' slowest speed is 200RPM. So I use lots of oil, a rigid material setup, two hands on the quill lever to even out the downward pressure, lots of patience, and ear muffs to drown out the noise.

 

[MJPetersen]

Thanks guys. I got the scarifiers back today from my friend so I will put them in and go give it a go maybe next week. I have some mounds of suspicious composition located on the the back side of our property at church. The practice during communist times was to just dump all waste on the the back side of the property. The result is mounds of broken bricks, big lumps of tar and piles of cement/asbestos roofing panels. (Yes I know to be careful of the latter) Given the intervening years these mounds have overgrown with grass and brush. We would like to smooth it all out for a playing field so this is my test project.

mjncad, I think that a lot of people here use hole saws. I read here on TBN somewhere that any through hole bigger than 3/4 inch can best be done with a hole saw. I do not have a press and therefore would not even try the larger sizes yet.

flusher, the scraper that you are referring to is a bit different than the one I built in that they carried the dirt. My FIL had an old fresno type scraper that rolled to dump. Definitely productive and interesting devices.

Off to work.

Mike in Warsaw

 

[mjncad]

My only real gripe with hole saws are that by their very nature they are not too accurate. I did buy a set of Silver & Deming twist drills up to 1" diameter for those times when I need something more accurate than a hole saw.

If I encounter a need for accurate holes above 1" in diameter, then I better track down a machinist with a mill and boring bar.