TomSeller
Super Member
I had to go to the fuse box with the front lights as they drew nearly 25 amps. For the rear lights I tapped into the existing wiring since they only drew 3 amps.
25 is a lot, but I bet those lights work really well.
I had to go to the fuse box with the front lights as they drew nearly 25 amps. For the rear lights I tapped into the existing wiring since they only drew 3 amps.
25 is a lot, but I bet those lights work really well.
I agree that is nice but I am always fearful that a barn cat will turn the dang things on and run down the battery. Has happened several times with the hazards on my old tractor.Love the ability to have the lights on with out engine running for short needs and the key off shutting down the lights.
I like how the light is multi-purpose and you can just bring it with you when you close up the barn.Well....
I too am in need of light to "get the tractor to the barn".
I used a Planters Peanut jar (34.5 ounces), ductape and a flashlight to do a "mock up".
oh sorry I may not have explained it well... unless your cats are good with keys no issue. With key off, the switches are not powered... with key on, whether engine running or not, there is power to them. One mistake I made was to locate them such that they get easily bumped by my knee. But there is not a lot of real estate on the BX25D dash to mount switches so I guess I didn't have much choice. A pain working in cramped space but I am glad I wired to the ignition switch.I agree that is nice but I am always fearful that a barn cat will turn the dang things on and run down the battery. Has happened several times with the hazards on my old tractor.
The majority of toggle switches will handle 10 amps at 12 volts DC.
A few major brand names will go 15 amps.
That is for the normal size vs the mini styles.
With most LED systems I would not hesitate to switch direct DC without using any relays.
I even switched dual 3" halogen spots with a standard toggle.
I'm back!
Let me add (qualify), I was a licensed aircraft electronic technician and have wired many aircraft as well as designed major modifications.
I have totally re wired passenger aircraft, and completely updated private planes to modern standards.
I held FAA and Cdn DOT certificates.
LED's are a great thing.
Easy on charging systems, great output, fantastic longevity and save weight etc etc.
The current draws are so low that you can use just about any size wire with the only drawback being physical strength of that wire size.
With just about any LED installation you could go 22 g and still be OK. but for the demands of the rugged environment a tractor lives in I prefer to stay with 16g mainly for the mechanical characteristics (or min 18g)'