Additional lights on 2305 ROPS

[kennyd]

My "new" circuit is switched ON with the key through a 30 amp relay, no chance of draining battery if the key is OFF.

Here is my old thread I found: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/69583-rops-light-install.html

 

[jenkinsph]

Kenny,
Since the OP chose to ignore my comment about the 20 amp alternator I am curious if you know what the draw is when the ignition is turned on? It would seem very easy to surpass the 20 amp limit only to wind up with a dead battery working evenings.

 

[mcfarms]

Ok, KennyD. Clearly you know what you're doing with this! Well done, bud!! Is there a wire under the seat that I need to tap into if I go this route? If so, which one?

I didn't intend to ignore your comment, jenkinsph!! I appreciate all the feedback and help!

 

[kennyd]

Kenny,
Since the OP chose to ignore my comment about the 20 amp alternator I am curious if you know what the draw is when the ignition is turned on? It would seem very easy to surpass the 20 amp limit only to wind up with a dead battery working evenings.

Steve, its about 4-6 amps IIRC, basically very simple electronics and the fuel solenoid. The 20 amp alt is another reason I chose not to have the headlights on when they are useless anyway.

 

[kennyd]

Ok, KennyD. Clearly you know what you're doing with this! Well done, bud!! Is there a wire under the seat that I need to tap into if I go this route? If so, which one?

I didn't intend to ignore your comment, jenkinsph!! I appreciate all the feedback and help!

No clue which wire, I never tap into factory wiring harnesses since they are usually minimally sized to start with. That's why I created my own new circuit.

 

[adirondackmtnman]

If you have an outlet in the back of the tractor(for implements/wagons/etc) you can buy a plug for that @ TSC for about $20, works well because power's off with keyswitch, and you can put a second switch in to kill the lights when not necessary

Sent from my LGL35G using TractorByNet

 

[drjay9051]

Since headlights are pretty useless with FEL or other implement at front why not just disconnect wires at headlights and run back to the ROPS? When you switch on headlights the LED light up. No additional draw.

You won't have headlights but you pretty much don't have them when they are on anyway.

 

[jenkinsph]

Steve, its about 4-6 amps IIRC, basically very simple electronics and the fuel solenoid. The 20 amp alt is another reason I chose not to have the headlights on when they are useless anyway.

So at best the lighting load needs to be less than 12 amps total load if there is going to be any amount of headroom in the charging circuit. Realistically I would wan't it to be less and would agree to having a small or lower powered work light(s) on a separate circuit and switch. Using a $100 led light might be more practical IF you need it, I think the alternator upgrade to 40 amp costs much more than that.

 

[mcfarms]

Yeah!! It's like $350 to upgrade the alternator, I think.

 

[jenkinsph]

Luckily for me my x749 has a 40 amp alternator standard on it. I did pay extra for an upgrade on my 110tlb just can't remember how much it was.