Additional lights on 2305 ROPS

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Wow, I never thought of that, KennyD! Seems there are a couple ways of going about/around this. #1 would be to do exactly as you did, and have a dedicated switch. Knowing me, this would increase the risk of leaving them on accidentally and draining the battery. Perhaps I could locate a wire that activates when the key it turned, but what if I want them on for a short time when the tractor is off? I could always go with LED instead of the 12V/55W halogens I got. I went with the halogens for the simple reason that LED's produce little to no heat in this size. Since much of my night work will be on winter evenings (which are long and dark in Maine) the halogens produce heat that will keep the light from ice/snow buildup. So, I could always put LEDs in the hazzard and headlights to reduce the draw. Seems this isn't as simple a choice as I initially thought. lol

This is all very helpful information!!!

Mc, LEDS do run cooler but I'm not sure where or how this urban myth came about ( I think it has something to do with some NW county getting their LED stop lights snowed over in winter) but LED's throw out enough of heat to keep them from being snowed over short of a blizzard. They'll always throw light enough for you to see in a snow storm.

 

[Qapla]

Just a thought .... you could install a single-pole-double-throw switch in the line that runs to the headlights. Then run a wire from that to the headlights and another to the new work lights. That way, the headlight switch will control either set of lights you want to use at a given time but not allow both to be on at the same time to prevent over amp usage.

 

[mcfarms]

I like it, Qapla! Best of both worlds! And in case anyone wondered, I absolutely did blow the 10 amp fuse that is stock in the work light line.

 

[Scotty Dive]

MC, I had a similar problem like yours. I have a dynamo that only produces 15 amps. What I did was added a toggle switch for two forward facing LED lights, and another switch for 2 backward facing LED lights. This way I can control the headlights, the forward facing, and the rear facing all independently. This all works nicely and doesn't over push my dynamo. Additionally, the LED's throw just enough heat to melt any snow. I am in Connecticut and we certainly get our fair share of cold and snowy winters.

 

[mcfarms]

Ok, Scotty. Maybe I was given incorrect info. CT is pretty similar to ME in that regard.

 

[mcfarms]

Thank you all for your help and advice on this project!!! I got the lights hooked up and used them one evening last week. All went well until both lights vibrated loose Thurs. and fell off. I put some rubber bushings in that should help with that problem. Below are some pics! Would love to hear your thoughts and input on the final product!











John Deere 2305 w/ 200CX fel & quick hitch power broom.

 

[kennyd]

Looks good MC

 

[wmonroe]

Looks good. Are they in your eyes at all when you look back to back up?

 

[mcfarms]

Not really, monroe. Especially since I blew another fuse when I was tightening the nuts over the bushings tonight. Lol

John Deere 2305 w/ 200CX FEL & quick hitch power broom.

 

[Gator6x4]

From what you said about the nuts vibrating loose I take they are standard type metric or SAE. Have you thought of replacing the regular nuts with ones with the locking plastic inserts. I have had good results with using the plastic lockers in high vibration areas.