Brake Controller suggestions

[Monster5601]

Only 2 ways I would go,
True factory proportional controller with a manual over ride lever,
Or a MAX Brake controller.
The rest are just timer or pendulium gimicks.

Slack

An accelerometer is use along with the brake signal and thumb-wheel setting to calculate and apply trailer braking force, as used in the Prodigy's. This is a good system and works well. Anyone with a modern smart phone has likely played with applications that used the phone's accelerometer. The MAX Brake requires a tap in to the vehicle's hydraulic brake system, even if done right, I don't like that, it adds a failure point.

I towed my tractor yesterday, the first time I've towed with my new RAM with the factory brake controller, I can tell you there is significantly noticeable difference between the factory brake controller and how my Prodigy P2 behaves, I was happy with the P2 (and still use it when towing with the Tahoe). This is subjective but I would take the factory controller first, followed by Prodigy's offerings, but never would tap my brake system's hydraulics.

 

[Diamondpilot]

An accelerometer is use along with the brake signal and thumb-wheel setting to calculate and apply trailer braking force, as used in the Prodigy's. This is a good system and works well. Anyone with a modern smart phone has likely played with applications that used the phone's accelerometer. The MAX Brake requires a tap in to the vehicle's hydraulic brake system, even if done right, I don't like that, it adds a failure point.

I towed my tractor yesterday, the first time I've towed with my new RAM with the factory brake controller, I can tell you there is significantly noticeable difference between the factory brake controller and how my Prodigy P2 behaves, I was happy with the P2 (and still use it when towing with the Tahoe). This is subjective but I would take the factory controller first, followed by Prodigy's offerings, but never would tap my brake system's hydraulics.

Really, a failure point? The average brake system has no less than 24 fittings already. 1 more only increases the chance of a failure by about .4% There is no "tapping". Its a simple T that goes in between the master cylinder and a brake line. Easy, clean, neat, and safe. You are 1000 times more likely to have road debris take out a rubber brake line at a caliper then have the T fail or leak.

I install brake contrllers and work on trailers and equipment as a part time job. There are bigger things to worry about but go ahead. Also, all modern master cylinders are a two chamber design so even if there was a failure, very unlikely, you would only lose 1/2 your brakes.

Prodigy, a ok controller. Installed about 50 but not even on par with the Max Brake. OEM controller even better yet.

Chris

 

[jejeosborne]

My factory ford controller is awesome. Previous truck I installed a prodigy which was good but not as good as factory. It operates so much smoother. Also, you can program multiple trailers and it keeps track of mileage and fuel efficiency per trailer. Having 4 trailers, this is fun to watch.

 

[sparc]

a factory installed tow package is the way to go, There is much more than trailer brakes involved, For auto tranny there will be a good quality transmission cooler installed, as well as separate fuse's & relay for the component/wiring,
I really like the factory ones, However, the aftermarket actuators do have another benefit, while traveling on downhill grades you can use the under dash lever to manually apply the the trailer brakes without having use the brakes on the tow vehicle, can use it to apply the brakes a bit harder on the trailer to assist in adjusting the downhill speed, anyone who ever has towed in the mountains knows what I'm talking about, I'm not sure if the factory installed brake controller has to be setup through the computer to give a stronger apply to the trailers brakes, But with my f-250 it's seems to be adjusted out equally when towing our 24 ft camper, when I towed with my older Ramcharger with drum brakes I had an aftermarket brake control,( Shelton ) I would use the lever/button to help apply the brakes on the trailer,although there are settings on the controller to custom adjust the pressure being applied but sometimes it felt like it needed a bit firmer or quicker stopping like being caught at a caution light about to turn red,

On my '12 F-350 I can program the gain for each of my three trailers. Then when I connect to one I just change to the trailer I am pulling and the gain is set. Adjusting the gain is easy using the +/- buttons like any other controller. It logs miles for each trailer too. And as you implied you can manually apply the trailer brakes using the factory installed brake controller, just as you can with an aftermarket controller.

 

[Monster5601]

Really, a failure point? The average brake system has no less than 24 fittings already. 1 more only increases the chance of a failure by about .4% There is no "tapping". Its a simple T that goes in between the master cylinder and a brake line. Easy, clean, neat, and safe. You are 1000 times more likely to have road debris take out a rubber brake line at a caliper then have the T fail or leak.

I install brake contrllers and work on trailers and equipment as a part time job. There are bigger things to worry about but go ahead. Also, all modern master cylinders are a two chamber design so even if there was a failure, very unlikely, you would only lose 1/2 your brakes.

Prodigy, a ok controller. Installed about 50 but not even on par with the Max Brake. OEM controller even better yet.

Chris

It is not only the tap that adds another failure point (and tapped on half of your braking system), but the tap is made to feed a sensor that can measure hydraulic pressure. The sensor itself adds a whole new level of failure concern. Like I said, subjective, but well never happen on my trucks.

Shooting from the hip or are there statistics to the numbers you quoted?

 

[Diamondpilot]

It is not only the tap that adds another failure point (and tapped on half of your braking system), but the tap is made to feed a sensor that can measure hydraulic pressure. The sensor itself adds a whole new level of failure concern. Like I said, subjective, but well never happen on my trucks.

Shooting from the hip or are there statistics to the numbers you quoted?

Experience. I have replumbed brakes on dozens of of vehicles and hydraulic braked trailers. I have also fixed all mine and my friends brakes since 1989. Never had a fitting fail. Seen some hard lines rust through but by a factor of about 50 I have seen the rubber hoses and components fail in one way or another.

I have also installed a handful of Max Brake controllers. Even if you did lose all your vehicles brakes, which is next yo impossible, you could still manually actuate the trailers brakes to stop the rig. You have a better chance of winning the lottery on back to back weeks.

Either way you have a factory controller, by far the best option.

Chris

 

[jejeosborne]

It is not only the tap that adds another failure point (and tapped on half of your braking system), but the tap is made to feed a sensor that can measure hydraulic pressure. The sensor itself adds a whole new level of failure concern. Like I said, subjective, but well never happen on my trucks.

Shooting from the hip or are there statistics to the numbers you quoted?

I would guess that the pressure sensor, being such a simple device, is much more reliable that all the complex inertia sensing gizmos needed in wired units. If safety is such a concern for you, wouldn't you rather have a brake controller that has a more accurate means of sensing what you, the driver is requesting? I am betting the stopping distances are shortest on this type of system.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I would guess that the pressure sensor, being such a simple device, is much more reliable that all the complex inertia sensing gizmos needed in wired units. If safety is such a concern for you, wouldn't you rather have a brake controller that has a more accurate means of sensing what you, the driver is requesting? I am betting the stopping distances are shortest on this type of system.

Yes, stoping distance is about 30% shorter as per testing done.

Chris

 

[Monster5601]

I would guess that the pressure sensor, being such a simple device, is much more reliable that all the complex inertia sensing gizmos needed in wired units. If safety is such a concern for you, wouldn't you rather have a brake controller that has a more accurate means of sensing what you, the driver is requesting? I am betting the stopping distances are shortest on this type of system.

And this is why I have a factory brake controller!

 

[jejeosborne]

And this is why I have a factory brake controller!

Yes and me I as well. But I sure wouldn't be afraid of an additional fitting. The factory system probably added a fitting for the sole purpose of the brake controller but not certain on that.