"brush hog" gear oil and level.

[srjones]

Yup...it's to sharpen the blades. Right now they're so dull that they are perfectly rounded over.

I thought about grinding them right on the brush hog, but I decided against for a few reasons.

1. I'm going to have to take off a LOT of metal to get them sharpened.
2. I'd have to do all the grinding croched over in various positions. I can feel my joints ache just thinking about it.
3. If I take them off, I can do all the sharpening upright at a bench grinder or possible send them out to be done.
4. (and most important) They can be balanced.

But once I get them sharpened up right, I will use a grider to touch them up.

 

[Soundguy]

On brushog blades.. you will find that the 'ballance ' issue is of little importance. 'Eyeballing' them is about as close as you need to be...

Remember to restore the angle.. and that you don't need a sharp blade.. about 1/32 or 1/16 flat edge is fine...

Soundguy

 

[midlf]

Yep - not sharp. I have a new spare set of blades for my 48" Befco and they are not sharp. As stated they are blunt as Soundguy noted.

 

[3RRL]

Mine have chips and knicks (gouges) out of them. I was thinking of welding up the edge with some hard rod and then resharpening them?

 

[Soundguy]

Hard rod.. like surfacing rod? I've done that on cutting edges and tiller teeth.

Soundguy

 

[KennyV]

Like Soundguy said “85/140 wt oil in the gearbox.. though I'm sure 80w synthetic.. or 90w is FINE and won't hurt a thing.”

I checked the temp before lube change, and after… before changing my finish mower gear box was 195 degrees… I switched to Mobil1 synthetic gear lube and the temp dropped to 128 degrees, same load same hot afternoon temp. Checked after An hour and a half run.
The old lube, (Not synthetic) had around 2 years and about 100 hours. KennyV.

 

[Doc_Bob]

Like Soundguy said “85/140 wt oil in the gearbox.. though I'm sure 80w synthetic.. or 90w is FINE and won't hurt a thing.”

I checked the temp before lube change, and after… before changing my finish mower gear box was 195 degrees… I switched to Mobil1 synthetic gear lube and the temp dropped to 128 degrees, same load same hot afternoon temp. Checked after An hour and a half run.
The old lube, (Not synthetic) had around 2 years and about 100 hours. KennyV.

Put the dino back in and redo the test!
Bob

 

[KennyV]

I suppose that would be the best way to prove the synthetic running cooler… But my main reason to change was I am trying to switch everything I have to synthetic, (call me a believer).
MY cars and trucks have always been synthetic, engine oils, trans, power steering, even break fluids… My mowers and tractors have all had syn engine oils… but I have not yet switched the hydraulic fluids yet to synthetic… that is in my plans for this year.

This gear box was maybe over due for a lube change but I was surprised to see that much change in temp. KennyV.

 

[RalphVa]

I removed mine with a 6' piece of pipe put over the handle of my 3/4" driver. That hole will keep the socket in place to keep the blades from rotating.

You'll need a couple of clamps to put the bolts and probably the stump jumper back on. Be sure and prop up the brush hog well. Don't rely on the 3 ph to hold it there. Crawl underneath and clamp bolt you're looking to put nut back on and (probably) stump jumper in place. If just the bolt, one clamp will do. If the bolts hold the stump jumper in place, you'll need a second clamp on the other side of the stump jumper.

Use new nuts or retighten after 1 and 10 hours of use. Probably a good idea to check tightness after 1 and 10 hours anyway, new or old nuts. I just tightened until I could feel the nut becoming almost not able to turn with the 6' breaker.

Ralph

 

[Doc_Bob]

I suppose that would be the best way to prove the synthetic running cooler…

Put the dino back in and redo the test!
Bob