Can't disconect my Quick Conect Coupler Loader 1520

[grsthegreat]

Hey grs,
if YOU had the video, could YOU post it to YouTube? I can email it to you....

Heres the link. I really like those couplers. Never seen that kind before.

 

[tgrashopper]

Ipakiz, thanks for clueing me in. I wasn't aware; this forum generally does a great job at keeping things civil. (I see his post has been deleted, glad to see that.)

grasshopper, one thing you need to keep in mind: on my 2310, and I suspect a number of other M-F tractors, Massey-Ferguson very often makes things --wires, cables, hydraulic lines, etc.-- just as short as they can while still being able to do the job. If you cut off your couplers, your hose may well end up 1-2" too short to work with a new coupler fitting, making it necessary to replace the entire hose.

Some of those are long! If you end up replacing the hoses that are connected to both male and female couplers, that's a total of eight hoses, not a job I'd look forward to... though you would end up with new hoses, not necessarily a bad thing. I've had to replace three of my hoses so far -- a 2007 model purchased in 2008, now with a bit over 1000 hrs on it.

Thanks for the tip. i did'nt not tought about that. Mine is a 2008 and the previus oner told me he had to change some hose because he broken them but I do not know witch one.

 

[tgrashopper]

Heres the link. I really like those couplers. Never seen that kind before.

@ lpakiz These are in fact verry interesting.I don't think it's the same type as mine. But I'll try.

I'll take picture on the name and number on them tomorow.

 

[lpakiz]

Many thanks to grsthegreat for posting this.
For some reason, I thought every later model Massey had these couplers. Guess I gotta get out more.....

 

[Cycledude]

Those look like what I would call break away couplers and are very common on lots of equipment but not usually the newer small tractors which surprises me. Wish my LS came With break away couplers, that could save a lot of expensive trouble someday .

 

[npalen]

The breakaway couplers are nice but, in my experience, on the expensive side.

 

[lpakiz]

I wouldn't know about their cost, as they came standard on the tractor. I have bought extra male tips and they were not noticeably more expensive. And I suspect they are not much different than a "two-way collar" type. It's just that the collar is made to be the mounting point, simply reversing which component needs to move to hook or unhook.
As far as saving expense by "breaking away" they sure would and did, in the case of a plow hitch tripping when you hook a root or rock, or forgetting to disconnect them when unhooking an implement.

Alas, as soon as you put an elbow next to them, they won't unhook. The side torque puts them in a bind and they won't, at least until it bends the bracket enough to make the pull straighter, and I'm not sure even then, that they would unhook.
I can tell you that just to unhook them manually, you need to grasp them as close to the elbow as possible and usually I hold the hose part "in" with a little pressure, to counteract the side torque. The little hook I made helps to put the pull as close as possible to the centerline. I think a loop of wire, a shoelace, or zip strap could serve the same function, and even allow you to use a screwdriver, a short length of rod, or a sliver of wood for the tee-handle.

 

[npalen]

I wouldn't know about their cost, as they came standard on the tractor. I have bought extra male tips and they were not noticeably more expensive. And I suspect they are not much different than a "two-way collar" type. It's just that the collar is made to be the mounting point, simply reversing which component needs to move to hook or unhook.
As far as saving expense by "breaking away" they sure would and did, in the case of a plow hitch tripping when you hook a root or rock, or forgetting to disconnect them when unhooking an implement.

Alas, as soon as you put an elbow next to them, they won't unhook. The side torque puts them in a bind and they won't, at least until it bends the bracket enough to make the pull straighter, and I'm not sure even then, that they would unhook.
I can tell you that just to unhook them manually, you need to grasp them as close to the elbow as possible and usually I hold the hose part "in" with a little pressure, to counteract the side torque. The little hook I made helps to put the pull as close as possible to the centerline. I think a loop of wire, a shoelace, or zip strap could serve the same function, and even allow you to use a screwdriver, a short length of rod, or a sliver of wood for the tee-handle.

I must have been thinking of the "connect under pressure" couplers when mentioning the increased price. I agree that using the collar for the mounting is basically the only difference in the breakaway setup.

 

[lpakiz]

Yeah, I think that type is expensive. Usually I've seen them on skid steers. I've attempted to couple those types several times and never succeeded. Another guy will come along and do it easily. I believe those are what are called "flat face".

To install the "just pull to unhook" couplers requires that the coupler collar be mounted to a stout bracket and they must be supplied with a flexible hose, behind the coupler, to allow the "guts" to all slide when push or pull force is applied. On grasshoppers valve bank, the couplers are installed ridgidly, so no chance of the sliding motion necessary to make them work.

 

[bdhsfz6]

I figured I'd make a new thread other then my Float Thread. In my journey trying to disassemble my loader joystick. I can't disconnect my hydrolic. the collar will not slide up or down or turn.

Any idea ?

It's a 2008 and I don't think they have ever been disconnected before.

I've been fighting these sticky hydraulic couplers for years. The solution that works for me is this cheap welding clamp from Harbor Freight:

Welding And Sheet Metal Clamp Set, 2 Piece

Amazing deals on this Welding & Sheet Metal Clamp Set 2Pc at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

I used an angle grinder to open the jaws enough to fit the slot on the coupler barrel:

It spits a bit of oil but it even works on lines with some pressure in them.