Snow Attachments Chains

[PILOON]

My take looking at the size of the front drive components is that the term 'front assist' is just that. Assistance and not main power.

On my CUT it cost me a (costly) crown and pinion once.
Also trashed my front rims due to crabbing in push mode with an angled snow blade.

 

[FatTire]

Chains aren't optional here most winters. Use chains on your equipment or stay home. On the Kubota I use the net style on the front, Duo's on rear. No pavement.

 

[Phil48]

Since we are getting more and more strange winter : extreme cold then melting down! Our gravel/crush stone driveway is more like a toboggan extreme slide! Since the very beginning I have installed chains on front and rear tire.

For front tire (light chain with studs):
TRYGG FAST TRAC W/SQUARE STUDS
TRYGG Kjetting

For rear tire 3/8 Aquiline Talon
11.2-24 AquilineTalon Tractor – Tire Chains by TireChainsRequired.com

A blessing for today whether!

Phil

 

[Phil48]

in conjunction with tire chain, I had to buy another attachment for keeping up with our new crazy weather: crush stone gravel anti-slip device!

I now stock about 30 bags of crush anti-slip stone (40 lbs each). I have an average of 3 to 5 severe episode of icing of our driveway ¼ mile. So far a good solution!

 

[LouNY]

I get a tri-axle of winter sand salt mix every 2-3 years and then this;
View attachment IMG_20180205_115802129.jpg View attachment IMG_20180205_115816914.jpg View attachment IMG_20180205_120405626.jpg View attachment IMG_20180205_123232794.jpg View attachment IMG_20171226_130905131.jpg

pic #2 is the sand pile with plastic on it except where I'm headed to scoop up a bucket full
Pics #3 and 5 are loading the sander

I have to sand after most storms if I'm expecting anyone without 4wd and good tires.
And then the shady spots almost all the time.

 

[groundcover]

Broken Track - you sporting those new see through chaps in that pic ?

 

[PILOON]

What Phil48 shows will work great on his type tires.
On turfs (if you have that style) the studded every 3rd link in traditional cross fashion will be better (studded or V ice or even plain) but every 3rd link.
NB, I have had all combinations and converted my (like Phil) to every 3rd for my turfs. Every 3rd make a nice ride and never skips but always grabs even on blue sheer ice like after a freezing rain event and that on fairly steep climbs.

 

[LouNY]

What Phil48 shows will work great on his type tires.
On turfs (if you have that style) the studded every 3rd link in traditional cross fashion will be better (studded or V ice or even plain) but every 3rd link.
NB, I have had all combinations and converted my (like Phil) to every 3rd for my turfs. Every 3rd make a nice ride and never skips but always grabs even on blue sheer ice like after a freezing rain event and that on fairly steep climbs.

I'll have to disagree the euro or net studded chain will give the absolute best traction and ride with no exception regardless the type of tire there is no way conventional cross link chains will even come close I don't care if the are 2 link or 3 link or 4 link spaced..

 

[PILOON]

I'll have to disagree the euro or net studded chain will give the absolute best traction and ride with no exception regardless the type of tire there is no way conventional cross link chains will even come close I don't care if the are 2 link or 3 link or 4 link spaced..

Yes the traction and ride was good so I agree there.

I had the euro on my CUT and they pulled apart just to often at the joints that were attached with S hooks.
From pure frustration I took them apart and converted them to ladder style.

I determined that all the energy was actually depending on the strength of any one S hook and it would open or snap and then I ended up with a tire chain all crooked and even wrapped around the axle as it slid sideways off of the tire.
Oh yes they gripped well but they usually dug down and snapped the S.
I used the chain stock and cut to cross length originally spacing every 6 link but found the ride rough so having the extra material I went to every 3 link.
At this point I ran out of chain stock and purchased more to finish up.

The result is over the last 10 years I have never had a chain failure while B4 I had 5-6 in one winter, all due to the S hooks.

 

[LouNY]

Yes the traction and ride was good so I agree there.

I had the euro on my CUT and they pulled apart just to often at the joints that were attached with S hooks.
From pure frustration I took them apart and converted them to ladder style.

I determined that all the energy was actually depending on the strength of any one S hook and it would open or snap and then I ended up with a tire chain all crooked and even wrapped around the axle as it slid sideways off of the tire.
Oh yes they gripped well but they usually dug down and snapped the S.
I used the chain stock and cut to cross length originally spacing every 6 link but found the ride rough so having the extra material I went to every 3 link.
At this point I ran out of chain stock and purchased more to finish up.

The result is over the last 10 years I have never had a chain failure while B4 I had 5-6 in one winter, all due to the S hooks.

I don't know what brand you had that had S hooks none of ours have them, all mine connect with angled links or clevis's or center locking links I have had clevis's come loose when the screw pins came out.
We put up to 135 hp to the ground with ours, the oldest set is about 8 years old and I have been waiting for them to start giving problems from being wore. So far so good