AGTtactical
Silver Member
- Joined
- Sep 16, 2018
- Messages
- 200
- Tractor
- Kubota SVL95; Kubota L6060HST
Thanks...you are the best. That settles it. Getting 3...
I'm a tad bit late in posting this but here my take on remotes;
yes I would want at least one or two with float,
also I would want one with position detents,
I also like at least 3 preferably 4.
I like one with the position detents for use with hydraulic motors or an implement
that has it's own valves and controls, such as bale wagons, back hoes, offset mowers, boom mowers, post drivers, wood splitters, log trailers with loading booms, and other attachments.
Kubota can have all 3 valves as float detent valves (I just configured it that way online).
You are correct. I'm getting an open cab since our property has so much forest, and we don't have to do things when the weather is bad. I don't like the fishbowl feeling in cab either...wife and I prefer to be "outside". I have an enclosed cab on my SVL-95 for safety reasons and because of the proximity of the bucket to the cab (a good wind and you end up with dirt in the cab if its open). But I mostly run it with the front door up except when dumping dirt...even in the winter. I just like being outside...and visibility is better.Are you sure, in the build section you only have a choice with the 2nd & 3rd valves with a cab tractor. It looks like an open station can have all 3 float.
Either way will be good. :thumbsup:
1 & 2 are float in my L4060HSTC. #3 is a double acting. I'd have gone detented if it was an option, but you can only get float & double acting on the grands.
And apparently you can't get good valves either. My loader valves hold for weeks. All of my rear valves have been replaced & 1 finally doesnt leak horibly internally. Still need to have them replace the other 2 again & hope.
Thanks Fallon. You must have a cab tractor. Can you say what year is your tractor and when did you get your valves? How many hours on your valves roughly? Are you running a factory top and tilt, or after market? This will be my wife's machine, so the valves will help her get things set right without manual manipulation. But I don't want a bunch of maintenance issues with valves either. My Kubota CTL has been totally bullet proof...no leaks, no problems at all. I'm surprised (and concerned) to hear this.
On a different note, do you wish you had more hp on that 40 hp 4060? I'd probably get a something around that size, but our land has lots of very steep hills, and we want to run a 78" flail mower.
My machine isnt quite 2 years old now & up to 250 hours or so. The valves have sucked since day 1, as have 1 of the 2 replacement valves. My toplink doesnt collapse much finally, but the sidelink will go all the way down in a couple hours. My loader valve is solid. The loader doesn't budge an inch in weeks. I've heard lots if others note similar issues with the rear valves for the 60 series. Previously the rear valves were apparently pretty good.
I ordered TnT with my machine. But the cylinders the dealer provided sucked. Neither ther Cat1 nor the Cat2 sized ones fit close at all. 2 of the 3 sets leaked externally horribly. They ended up giving me a refund & I got mine from FitRite. Those fit perfectly & didnt leak.
I live at 7,000' so I'm down a bit on power here vs somebody at sea level. I do want more power on a number of occasions though. Roading the machine up moderate hills drops from 14-15mps to 7-8.
I have a Peruzzo Super bull 2200 with a 87" working width. It weighs 1,700lbs or so. My machine runs it fine, although I have to go a little slower than I'd like at times. Finger size brush is no problem. Wrist size brush will go through, but runs out of HP & RPMs unless I'm creeping.
My L4060 has drug that flail through brush up & down some hills that were at, or slightly above the pucker factor I'm willing to run. I was going slow more for stability & pucker factor than power on the steep parts. I think I can go wider than my 72" track (R4s), but it fits my impliments & manuverability constraints well so I havent looked.
The pallet the flail came on was labeled at 1,920lbs & my loader (+ forks + leverage way out forward) couldn't quite lift it. I pulled the PTO shaft & packing off & could get it to a foot or 2. You can spec the bigger loader on the 4760 & larger Grands. The L4060 is rock solid stable at max lift with the medium size loader.
I was upgrading from a L3200 to get a cab with bells & whistles. I ended up with less power than expected with any slope. I doubled the weight if the machine with only 8 more HP. Traction wise it's close to a good match with loaded R4s. I could use a little more power at times plowing snow or pulling a box blade. But usually I'm limited on reaction time & control rather than power or traction.
In short I wish I could have afforded a L4760 or L6060. I probably actually have, but didnt want top stretch my budget that much. I dont regret getting the L4060 at all though.