Did I ruin my new carburetor for 18hp Kohler Command?

[Carl in CT]

I have a Toro/Wheelhorse tractor with a Kohler Command 18hp motor that is running like crap, seems to be fuel starved. I noticed the carb selenoid wire was barely attached and when I removed it the wire broke the rest of the way. New selenoid at dealer $75, online $28. New carb with selenoid at dealer $280, online $170-ish but a new carb including selenoid online with the fuel inlet pointing straight out instead of down was only $45. I figured a new carb might help resolve the fuel problem it seems to be having. If I couldn't use the cheaper carb because of the inlet direction I only spent an extra $17 on a selenoid and have a completely new bunch of carb parts so I bought the new carb for $45.

Well, being the impulsive idiot that I can be I thought, gee that fuel inlet looks to be just pressed in, I wonder if it can be turned. It was against my better judgement but I grabbed a pair of pliers and applied very little force and it turned pretty easily. I thought, uh oh, I think that was a bad idea. I expected it to be much tighter and not move at all and I would go with my original plan of re-routing the fuel line somehow (which would be difficult due to the air cleaner plate in the way but not impossible). When I applied such little force and the inlet moved I didn't know whether to be happy or scared for what I had just "accomplished". I'm thinking I might have broken a seal of some sort and now it's going to leak, or worse.

So, did I ruin my new carb and if so can I repair it?

Thanks

 

[V1Rotate]

Does it seem loose? It might have an O ring that allows it to rotate but not leake. If inlet rotates but still feels solid , I would put it all together and try it.
However, if it feels loose and sloppy I think it will leak when you put fuel to it.

 

[Bird]

You probably won't know whether it's damaged or not until you see if it leaks. You might be able to test that with air pressure (not very much pressure) rather that gasoline.

 

[Carl in CT]

It's not loose or sloppy at all, can't budge it with my fingers (and I'm not putting pliers on it again). With the float down I can blow air through it fine and with the float up I can't blow through it at all and I can't hear or feel any air leaking out anywhere so that seems right. It might be OK but I'm wondering if I should try some sort of gas-proof sealant around the outside of it before I get gas in it just to be sure.

 

[BrierPatch]

I have had fuel lines stuck on so bad on some old stuff that it pulled the pressed in fitting off the carb. I was able to just push them back in/lightly tap them and they were fine and didn't leak, they didn't have any orings or seals either. Do you know what the solenoid is for, electric choke, fuel shut off? Is there enough wire still there to reattach to/splice back together?

 

[Carl in CT]

The solenoid is for a fuel cut off I'm pretty sure. It's definitely not an electronic choke. The old wire broke off pretty much flush so there is nothing sticking out to reattach it. I may fiddle with it later but I really wanted to get this tractor going quick as I want to sell it while people are looking for used mowers this time of year.

 

[Soundguy]

if you are worried about a possible leak, go ahead and apply some jb weld tot he outside seam after cleaning up, let it cure fully, then go. jb is gas resistant once cured.

sounds like you are good though, as at most you are likely dealing with less than 4 - 6 psi of fuel pressure, and that would be even with a fuel pump.. less if gravity only / flow.

soundguy

 

[Carl in CT]

It has a fuel pump but I'm sure it's very low pressure as you said. Once the fuel gets to the inlet it goes down into the carb bowl and I can't really see where it would want to defy gravity and flow back up to where the fuel inlet comes into the carb body. There should not be any significant pressure inside the bowl forcing it back up and out around the inlet. So as long as the inlet sticks into the carb body a little ways I would think the fuel would follow a natural flow down into the bowl, not back out around the outside of the inlet so it should be fine. I think I will still put some sort of sealant on it just in case but I'm starting to feel better about what I've done.

 

[RoyJackson]

You probably won't know whether it's damaged or not until you see if it leaks. You might be able to test that with air pressure (not very much pressure) rather that gasoline.

Don't exceed 5 PSI if you use air and use soapy water (dish washing detergent and water works great) to check for bubbles. Spray or pour a bit of the soapy water at the joint when the air is applied.
Higher pressure may damage the carb..also, higher pressure will blow out too fast. You want to see any bubbling.

I'm thinking the tube might have been crimped in place. If that's correct, you probably cannot repair it (at home).

 

[Carl in CT]

What makes you think it was crimped in place and would I be able to tell by looking at the outside of it and why would that make it unrepairable?

Just trying to cover my bases here before I try it. It's easier to fiddle with it here on my bench all shiney and new with no gas in it then after trying it on the engine.