DIY counter weight

   / DIY counter weight #22  
I did make it heavier than i had needed or planned. But, it's not past it's limit, and feels great when it's back there. Very easy to hook up and move around.
Nice job but ~600# on the back to counter act ~600# on the front seems to be a lot of extra weight to be carrying around on a subcompact.
 
   / DIY counter weight #23  
Nice job but ~600# on the back to counter act ~600# on the front seems to be a lot of extra weight to be carrying around on a subcompact.

Nahh... CB65 backhoe is 600+ lbs. These GCs have practically the highest loader lift capacity of all subcompacts. They'll take 500-600lbs ballast all day
 
   / DIY counter weight #25  
When moving loads of gravel or soil I actually prefer little to no counter weight. With backhoe or even land plane (which has a couple hundred pounds added to it) on the back I find the total weight on the machine (load in bucket plus ~500-600# counter) makes it annoyingly sluggish which I took as perhaps too much for the HST system.. I've probably moved and spread 20+ tandem loads and a few trailer loads over the years with no apparent problems. Sure won't be traveling down a steep incline like that though.
 
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   / DIY counter weight #26  
In the few instances where I have used the FEL without a counterweight, it has caused more problems than benefits. Rear tires lose traction, end up ripping up sod, or on wet level grass, just spin, forcing use of 4WD. The extra weight on the front axle is also more likely to cause driveline damage with extensive use. The counterweight reduces the likely hood of this happening.
When things go wrong, it happens very quickly. Practices that reduce the chances of accident/injury should be encouraged. Tractor sluggish? run at a higher RPM. You are not doing the tractor any favors be operating at a low RPM.
The DIY cement blocks are great guides on low cost/customizable counterweights that add to the overall safe operation/reduced mechanical stress while increasing the functionality by being able to add storage/tool racks to the tractor.
 
   / DIY counter weight #27  
I don't carry loads over lawn very often, always use high RPM when using ballast and the HST is struggling, but thanks I never would have figured that out lol. The sluggish response and operation of the HST with that much addition overall weight tells me the HST is not too happy and generating a lot of heat. I never said DIY ballasts weren't great guides, did you read my post?? (I've had many hours with and without ballast) There are times I need and use ballast but for typical bucket loads of gravel or dirt I find the 500-600 pounds of ballast causes more issues of driveability and production of extra heat. Also, using bucket to back drag, smooth, and compact what you're spreading doesn't work well with that much weight on the back. I'm betting a 300-350 pound ballast would be a good compromise for my specific needs however.
 
   / DIY counter weight #28  
You really need to know your specific tractor to determine how much ballast is prudent. Small John Deeres like mine are known for being relatively light weight and having a good bit of loader lift capability. Mine weighs only about 2000 lbs and can lift over 1000 lbs. Without counterweight, it can lift the rear wheels on level ground. Other tractors in the same class weigh more and have less lift capacity. If I'm doing any serious loader work I put on the box blade or my 400 lb concrete counterweight.
 
   / DIY counter weight #29  
This is what came out of my MF GC 1715 manual.... IT sort of vague but if you can fined the numbers, it can be determined how much ballast is desirable...

ballast.jpg

Dale
 
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   / DIY counter weight #30  
With all the grade changes on my property I don't do anything with out my 1,000 lb weight. If only I had flat land.:drink:
 
 
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