DIY counter weight

[chim]

I never thought I'd want a separate piece for ballast. Until now there wasn't a reason. All Summer there''s a mower on the rear and in Winter there was either a 3PT blade or blower on it. Since I plan to sell the blower with the L3200, it is mounted on that tractor. The front blade does everything, so there's no need to carry a blade on the back. It's handier not to have that hanging out back there.

Last night I plowed two parking lots at our church and a couple driveways. The tractor has loaded rear tires but without anything on the 3PH I had to use 4WD for most of it. There are great ideas here for ballast to get started on something. At first i was thinking "quick 'n dirty" but need to think a little before pouring any concrete.

 

[WranglerX]

I never thought I'd want a separate piece for ballast. Until now there wasn't a reason. All Summer there''s a mower on the rear and in Winter there was either a 3PT blade or blower on it. Since I plan to sell the blower with the L3200, it is mounted on that tractor. The front blade does everything, so there's no need to carry a blade on the back. It's handier not to have that hanging out back there.

Last night I plowed two parking lots at our church and a couple driveways. The tractor has loaded rear tires but without anything on the 3PH I had to use 4WD for most of it. There are great ideas here for ballast to get started on something. At first i was thinking "quick 'n dirty" but need to think a little before pouring any concrete.

Some thoughts ...

Make sure design will hook up and unhook up from 3 PH (or quick hitch) with ease ...

Make it capable of carrying some tools, like tubes set in the concrete for shovels and rakes or hoes...

Be sure you can set it on ground without using any blocks for height (my mistake) ...

Also think about some sort of rear "hitch" so you can drag harrows or tow trailer or whatever... Maybe even lifting loop on top incase if falls over or you need to lift it for some reason where 3PH won't work for you...

Dale

 

[Jaylegger]

This is what came out of my MF GC 1715 manual.... IT sort of vague but if you can fined the numbers, it can be determined how much ballast is desirable...

View attachment 636014

Dale

Interesting. Though that blurb in not in my 2009 GC2600 manual I wonder if anyone here with a Massey subcompact has actually used this method under max capacity.

 

[KennyG]

I think almost no one has the capability to check their axle weight so that guidance is of limited value. John Deere provides actual weight recommendations for specific tractors.

Since I have a quick hitch and a 2 inch square receiver attachment for the quick hitch, it was easy to build a concrete counterweight. I just imbedded a 2 inch square tube with some rebar in a form and poured a convenient size block. It's really easy to take on and off.

 

[Jaylegger]

I think almost no one has the capability to check their axle weight so that guidance is of limited value. John Deere provides actual weight recommendations for specific tractors.

Since I have a quick hitch and a 2 inch square receiver attachment for the quick hitch, it was easy to build a concrete counterweight. I just imbedded a 2 inch square tube with some rebar in a form and poured a convenient size block. It's really easy to take on and off.

I have a DOT scale house 5 minutes from me so might give it a try in spring or summer when the scale is closed.

 

[MF RED in MT]

This is what came out of my MF GC 1715 manual.... IT sort of vague but if you can fined the numbers, it can be determined how much ballast is desirable...

View attachment 636014

Dale

This is what I use for ballast;

my home made weight box, approx.. 600 pounds,

or my Frontier 48" Box Blade (BB2048L), 275 pounds.

My 2009 MF DL100 Manual, has the same information as your manual, but it also has additional specific information on page 26 shown below:

It states a minimum weight of 280 pounds.

KC

 

[WranglerX]

What I did was not having weight of FEL, I guesses it at 800 pounds...SO 1340 for bare tractor, plus 800 for FEL and plus 850 pounds lift capacity.... And then dividing by 4 to get 25%...

1350 + 800 + 850 = 2950 / 4 = 737 pounds (or 25%)

So at 600 pounds (+/-) I think I am in safe range...




Dale

 

[MF RED in MT]

What I did was not having weight of FEL, I guesses it at 800 pounds...SO 1340 for bare tractor, plus 800 for FEL and plus 850 pounds lift capacity.... And then dividing by 4 to get 25%...

1350 + 800 + 850 = 2950 / 4 = 737 pounds (or 25%)

So at 600 pounds (+/-) I think I am in safe range...

View attachment 636271


Dale

Oh man I'm too old for all of that figuring, glad you could do it.

With the Box Blade, sometimes the rear would feel light, but not anymore, because I installed a 1/4" plate platform on top of the box blade with an ATV storage box.

Also when spreading road mix I now have no trouble quickly completing a smooth level driveway in a few passes, because of all the extra weight.

With all of the crap inside of the box, chains, shackles, chainsaw, 2" x 2" tube hitch, JAWS, etc... , I believe it's weight is now about 400 to 500 pounds.

KC

Here's a photo of my modification:

 

[DMW]

What I did was not having weight of FEL, I guesses it at 800 pounds...SO 1340 for bare tractor, plus 800 for FEL and plus 850 pounds lift capacity.... And then dividing by 4 to get 25%...

1350 + 800 + 850 = 2950 / 4 = 737 pounds (or 25%)

So at 600 pounds (+/-) I think I am in safe range...

View attachment 636271


Dale

Including the weight of the operator, you're golden. Not too long ago a pic was posted of a skidoo being moved by an FEL with fork extensions, no ballast. When the operator dismounted the tractor, one rear wheel rose up off the ground.

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/owning-operating/314547-stepped-off-almost-tipped-over.html

 

[Jaylegger]

And why you'll find little more than safe job procedure legal cover butt speak in operator manuals. Have to assume everyone is a complete dolt.