Finally took delivery of M7060 and BH 1812 Batwing cutter!

[Herkypilot]

Bush Hog is one of the few mfg's that I know of that say to use the whole bolt/washers/lock nut combo for the hitch.

I've always used a regular 1" hitch pin and have never had an issue.

Well I for one agree with them. It's much more secure with the 1" grade 8 bolt. Just having a pin with a cotter really looks flimsy to me. I can visualize what would happen if that pin gives way while I'm mowing - driving away from a running batwing BH with the separating PTO could make a mess.

 

[jdtractor]

I pull a woods 15' with a 15/16 hitch pin with cotter pin. Have lost a few cotter pins but no problems. My batwing has a safety tow chain also attached.... I mow steep rough hillsides along with level bottom ground. I've never had a problem but I must admit that the thought has crossed my mind more the once ... about the pin being heavy enough. I think after reading this post I'm going to use a grade 8-10 bolt with lock washer and nut along with a cotter pin below the nut. That sounds like the way to go ... because if pin ever broke or .... it wouldn't be pretty.. especially on the ground i mow . Lol....

 

[Herkypilot]

Yes, I switched it out when I first received it and don't have to worry about it at all. Very secure hookup now.

 

[sixdogs]

I pull a woods 15' with a 15/16 hitch pin with cotter pin. Have lost a few cotter pins but no problems. My batwing has a safety tow chain also attached.... I mow steep rough hillsides along with level bottom ground. I've never had a problem but I must admit that the thought has crossed my mind more the once ... about the pin being heavy enough. I think after reading this post I'm going to use a grade 8-10 bolt with lock washer and nut along with a cotter pin below the nut. That sounds like the way to go ... because if pin ever broke or .... it wouldn't be pretty.. especially on the ground i mow . Lol....

Pin bolts are grade 5 so will the grade 8 bolt be so hard as to wear the hitch and not the pin?

 

[ovrszd]

Thanks for the comments. oosik, yes, I intend to move the loader cylinders to the power position when I get a chance.

HP

I'll comment on this. I use the snot outta my FEL. Most times with a Grapple.

I run it in the "height" position. I don't need extra lift height. If lifts considerably less weight in the height position. I do it to minimize the stress on the FEL frame. It puts the cylinder in less of an advantage to get leverage. So less leverage = less stress on the FEL frame and any attachment that might be used and less stress on the tractor front end.

 

[ovrszd]

Pin bolts are grade 5 so will the grade 8 bolt be so hard as to wear the hitch and not the pin?

Yes.....

 

[Magicman710]

I pull a woods 15' with a 15/16 hitch pin with cotter pin. Have lost a few cotter pins but no problems. My batwing has a safety tow chain also attached.... I mow steep rough hillsides along with level bottom ground. I've never had a problem but I must admit that the thought has crossed my mind more the once ... about the pin being heavy enough. I think after reading this post I'm going to use a grade 8-10 bolt with lock washer and nut along with a cotter pin below the nut. That sounds like the way to go ... because if pin ever broke or .... it wouldn't be pretty.. especially on the ground i mow . Lol....

If the hitch pin is the same grade as a bolt of the same size, you aren't going to be any more or less likely to break either one. Hitch pins are designed for.. hitches?


That being said the retainer (a cotter pin or lynch pin) coming out could be of concern for most hitches like on a a grain cart or a set of harrows, but the way the weight of batwings are distributed I don't think it is as much of an issue. Batwings hitches don't hop. At least, I've never seen one do it. So the chances of the pin coming out the top even if there wasn't some sort of retainer pin is probably really, really low.


Of course, there's nothing wrong with using the bolt and nut setup if that's what you feel comfortable with. There's no such thing as being too careful.

 

[Buxus]

I'll comment on this. I use the snot outta my FEL. Most times with a Grapple.

I run it in the "height" position. I don't need extra lift height. If lifts considerably less weight in the height position. I do it to minimize the stress on the FEL frame. It puts the cylinder in less of an advantage to get leverage. So less leverage = less stress on the FEL frame and any attachment that might be used and less stress on the tractor front end.

I love this site. Great idea. I will be moving the pins on my new M7060 once I check the "brake linkage repair" if I ever get back out to the property. Feels like forever, but it's only been a week. Hopefully on Friday...Fortunately the snow just missed our part of Maryland and calling for a dry, balmy 40 degrees on my day off.

 

[ovrszd]

If the hitch pin is the same grade as a bolt of the same size, you aren't going to be any more or less likely to break either one. Hitch pins are designed for.. hitches?


That being said the retainer (a cotter pin or lynch pin) coming out could be of concern for most hitches like on a a grain cart or a set of harrows, but the way the weight of batwings are distributed I don't think it is as much of an issue. Batwings hitches don't hop. At least, I've never seen one do it. So the chances of the pin coming out the top even if there wasn't some sort of retainer pin is probably really, really low.


Of course, there's nothing wrong with using the bolt and nut setup if that's what you feel comfortable with. There's no such thing as being too careful.

And that's what the manufacturer is doing by recommending bolt/nut.

 

[Herkypilot]

Pin bolts are grade 5 so will the grade 8 bolt be so hard as to wear the hitch and not the pin?

The draw bar will essentially last the life of the tractor mowing about 4 times a year, so I'm not sure why that would be relevant.