Buying Advice First CUT: Sizing and Used Options

[DieselBound]

You can do it, yes. I usually plow my whole drive going forward then turn the blade around and push the banks back in reverse.

There are a few problems with doing the whole thing in reverse. Namely that the three point is designed to be operated the other way. It's much easier to bend and break stuff if you're going backwards than forwards. Also, moving snow is different than soil. Snow is much lighter, and instead of leveling it, you want to get it gone. By going forwards, you can safely travel much faster and throw the snow quite a ways, which is what you want. Also, there's the visibility issue. Much easier and more fun to wind out the tractor, put down your blade and zip to the end of the drive than to try to do it going backwards.

Yeah, going forward with a blade/plow on the front is definitely the way to go. I was just thinking that going forward with a blade on the back would be a bit problematic in deeper snow.

 

[motownbrowne]

Yeah, going forward with a blade/plow on the front is definitely the way to go. I was just thinking that going forward with a blade on the back would be a bit problematic in deeper snow.

Yep, in deep snow you're absolutely correct. Back blades aren't very tall anyways, so deep snow isn't their forte. If the forecast calls for more than 6-8", I go out after there's 4" on the ground. I could put the blade on my bigger tractor, which also has more aggressive tires. I'd be able to go forward through more snow, but it'd just spill over the top of the blade.

When it's deep, pushing backwards is a good option. A loader, even with just a bucket works too. Either way, unless you've got a blower, you're gonna be out there a while...

 

[FreedomFamilyFarms]

Just stumbled on the Bxpanded loader mounted snow blade: 72 Inch Snowplow

It's about half the price of an SSQA mounted blade. Blade floats independently of the tractor bucket and you can offset by ~8 inches to move the banks (advantage over SSQA mount). However, angle is manual and the whole rig looks like it adds a LOT of length to the front of your machine. I'd love any first hand accounts with this tool and how much snow you're moving with it.

 

[varmint]

IMO, the blade would stick out so far in front of the tractor that leverage from pushing snow sideways (which is what you gotta do, to clear it ) would man handle the tractor off to the other side. A SSQA blade is bad enough, unless you have a 3 ton tractor.

 

[fatboycowen]

I got myself a dirty hand tools 22 ton splitter from lowes, with one of their 20 percent off coupons (which was expired, but they let me use it, and i barely had to ask). It was about 800 bucks, since i waited till they had it on sale.. Small and simple, but extremely powerful and well built. The 22 ton has easily handled everything i throw at it. I'm glad i didn't spend double on a 35 ton that my friend recommended. There's no need. I too was considering a 3 point, but i'm glad i didnt.
Best part is, the engine, which is a cheapo kohler, is identical to the $100 harbor freight predator engine. Same bolt pattern and even looks identical. So, if it craps out or gets beat by ethanol, i won't bother tinkering with it, i'll just replace it in half an hour. It's refreshing not worrying about the engine. Though, i do change the oil, since it's cheap and easy.
Just leave it by your wood shed, and fire it up whenever needed. I don't even keep mine covered, and it's been 2 years, fires on the first pull every time. I move it around with my garden tractor, and still have the bigger tractor bucket available to move wood.

 

[DieselBound]

I got myself a dirty hand tools 22 ton splitter from lowes, with one of their 20 percent off coupons (which was expired, but they let me use it, and i barely had to ask). It was about 800 bucks, since i waited till they had it on sale.. Small and simple, but extremely powerful and well built. The 22 ton has easily handled everything i throw at it. I'm glad i didn't spend double on a 35 ton that my friend recommended. There's no need. I too was considering a 3 point, but i'm glad i didnt.
Best part is, the engine, which is a cheapo kohler, is identical to the $100 harbor freight predator engine. Same bolt pattern and even looks identical. So, if it craps out or gets beat by ethanol, i won't bother tinkering with it, i'll just replace it in half an hour. It's refreshing not worrying about the engine. Though, i do change the oil, since it's cheap and easy.
Just leave it by your wood shed, and fire it up whenever needed. I don't even keep mine covered, and it's been 2 years, fires on the first pull every time. I move it around with my garden tractor, and still have the bigger tractor bucket available to move wood.

Sounds like a perfect match to your requirements! I like it when people think things through I also had contemplated a 3pt splitter and ended up with a standalone (also a 22 ton- mine, however, has a Subaru engine and I'm hoping that it lives up to the extra price tag- it works really well for me); I tow my splitter with my Polaris Brutus; wife and I can then both go out together.

 

[FreedomFamilyFarms]

I'm seeing the logic in the standalone splitter. Will likely come down to price. Almost swapped a generator I'm getting ready to sell for one last week but it didn't have a valve of its own (relied on tractor valves to run it). I'd probably place the splitter fairly low on my list knowing I have two neighbors with towable units. Checking out a Kioti and TYM dealer this Thursday (passing through). I've been working up an implement wish list/spreadsheet. These items add up FAST.

 

[FreedomFamilyFarms]

Stopped at the Kioti dealer and drove a CK3510H. Loved it. Everything felt just right. Loader valve is perfect. Operator station is comfortable. No problems getting on the machine from either side and I could see behind me turning either direction with my foot on the HST pedal.

There is a TYM dealer in the same town so I checked them out too. The 35 hp model they had was being rented to an equipment rental shop that was sub-renting it to someone else. I feel sorry for the sucker that buys that "new" machine.

 

[FreedomFamilyFarms]

The new house is done and we're in it. Check from the old house is on its way to the bank. I need to get the brush on one side of the lane mowed before the snow hits so I'm hoping to make a decision and purchase a CUT in the next month. I found that there are more Deere dealers around here than any other brand and one of them is close and highly recommended by neighbors. I'm going to give them a look soon, possibly next week. New Deere gear is above my budget, but a used one might be just the fit.

The current leader is an LS G3033. Our local Bobcat dealer (11 miles away) picked up LS when Bobcat stopped branding Kioti's. This is a Tier 3, 33HP, HST, 4WD, with R4s. The ONLY thing I don't love about it is the location of the loader valve. Dealer and I have worked out a price that includes installed rear remotes, plumbing for a hydraulic snow blade, and a Bobcat SSQA snow blade, bucket hooks, and delivery for $19,450.

Updated price check in LS Forum

 

[mike69440]

IMO, the blade would stick out so far in front of the tractor that leverage from pushing snow sideways (which is what you gotta do, to clear it ) would man handle the tractor off to the other side. A SSQA blade is bad enough, unless you have a 3 ton tractor.

4 ton tractor, still gets front end pushed around when angle plowing more than a few inches. Short wheelbase, and Plow is way in front of front axle.