First tractor

[hghvolt]

Just from what I see , you have your top link to short. The vertical upright of the plow should be all most vertical when the plow is at working depths. The way it is set now it will just keep trying to go deeper.

 

[69clone]

Thanks the reason I kept shorting it was to try and get it to go down deeper. I have yet to get it to wanna dig down. If I put it in float it'll just graze the top or barely dig under the sod. I will take the advice about the adjustments to all the linkage and see what happens. I imagine as was previously mentioned if I unscrew those top nuts on the arms then I should gain traction when lowering the plow all the way? Since currently if I lower it fully it lifts one of the wheels off the ground.

 

[Steave]

I agree with hghvolt about the top link. You can play with it and see what does the best. The middlebuster you're using is not really made to dig hard ground its made to lay off rows for planting and digging potatoes or pushing dirt on to the sides of potato plants in their growing stage. The ground usually has been loosened by some other means. You can dig hard ground with it but you'll have to take 1"-2" baby steps with it or you'll ruin your plow.

I see in your pictures the nuts are run all the way up on the lift arm links. That set up is ideal for post hole digging but not for plows or mowers as it makes it to easy to bend something or lose traction. Also the bottom nut always need to be run down snug after adjustments have been made. This helps take the wobble out of the threads of the link. Excess wobbling is rough on the threads.

I see you have stabilizer bars kind of like my ford. My Belarus don't have those or a place to have them. Have yours been added? Next time you get a chance if I could trouble you I'd like to see how the stabilizers are fastened to the gear box (or whatever you call it) next to the wheels. Somebody may have welded pins on it to hold them. I see they are mounted on a pin with a hitch pin holding them but I can't tell how the pin is mounted. I like that idea better than the cross chains mine has.

 

[69clone]

I agree with hghvolt about the top link. You can play with it and see what does the best. The middlebuster you're using is not really made to dig hard ground its made to lay off rows for planting and digging potatoes or pushing dirt on to the sides of potato plants in their growing stage. The ground usually has been loosened by some other means. You can dig hard ground with it but you'll have to take 1"-2" baby steps with it or you'll ruin your plow.

I see in your pictures the nuts are run all the way up on the lift arm links. That set up is ideal for post hole digging but not for plows or mowers as it makes it to easy to bend something or lose traction. Also the bottom nut always need to be run down snug after adjustments have been made. This helps take the wobble out of the threads of the link. Excess wobbling is rough on the threads.

I see you have stabilizer bars kind of like my ford. My Belarus don't have those or a place to have them. Have yours been added? Next time you get a chance if I could trouble you I'd like to see how the stabilizers are fastened to the gear box (or whatever you call it) next to the wheels. Somebody may have welded pins on it to hold them. I see they are mounted on a pin with a hitch pin holding them but I can't tell how the pin is mounted. I like that idea better than the cross chains mine has.

That makes sense. When I purchased the tractor it had the bush hog attached and I believe the nut was ran tight against the bottom part. I will tighten it back down and loosen the top one off. I have no problem taking pictures of the mounting setup for you. I'm not sure if it's original but there's roughly a 1" thick piece of steel that hangs down past the break system in the axle and it has one of those bolts with the cottorpin holding the bar on. If it is homemade that makes sense because there is a lot of play in what I assume should stiffen it up. The plow or bush hog can and will walk left/right quite abit. I have wanted to add some big washers or a chain to hold it firm.
But I will grab some shots for you tomorrow.

 

[Steave]

I appreciate that. I was wanting to come up with something and if I do i'll post it here. Mostly what I do with the Belarus is run a finish mower behind it and the chain system only keeps the lift arms off the wheels but I'd like to be able to stabilize it in case I want to pull a cultivator or planter with it. I use my ford 3000 mostly except for the mowing. The Belarus will run forever on a few gallons of fuel and that's the reason we have 3 of them. All 250AS.

 

[69clone]

Sure thing I'll get them after work. Like I said in the title it's our first tractor but I gotta say I do like it. The fact that everything's reusable/durable. Only complaint is the muscle it takes to turn or stay straight sometimes. I've nearly broke my thumbs at first due to hitting rabbit holes in the yard that wheel jerks so fast.

 

[hghvolt]

I have that same middle buster plow, I think you can take the current plow off the frame and put a sub-soiler point on it to break up hard soils. TSC should have the sub-soiler point. Sub-soilers are made for breaking up hard packed soils, they are narrow and will dig down as far as your 3ph will allow them. Word of caution if you have rocks or larger roots in you soils they can bring the tractor to an immediate stop and/or bend or break the plow and attaching pins.

 

[jeff9366]

Which are good reasons to have a HydrauLink Top Link protecting both the tractor and non-shear-bolt protected implements. See Post #11.

 

[69clone]

I appreciate that. I was wanting to come up with something and if I do i'll post it here. Mostly what I do with the Belarus is run a finish mower behind it and the chain system only keeps the lift arms off the wheels but I'd like to be able to stabilize it in case I want to pull a cultivator or planter with it. I use my ford 3000 mostly except for the mowing. The Belarus will run forever on a few gallons of fuel and that's the reason we have 3 of them. All 250AS.

If you need anything else let me know hope this helps.

 

[Steave]

69clone That looks factory made if it's not somebody done a great job on it and matched the paint too. It might have been and option that none of ours have. That's way better than anything I was thinking about and will get to work building them as soon as I finish those other 3000 projects I've got to do. I'm going to move this one closer to the top of the pile though.

Thanks for the pictures and the help. If you need to use the rear aux hydraulics it's easier to get an adapter to change the British Standard Pipe to something easier to get hydraulic hoses to fit. The adapter you need is a 1/2" BSPP female to fit the pipe on the tractor and the other end of the adapter can be whatever you want to use for the new hookup ...example- JIC, NPT, SAE If you're not familiar with hydraulics you can go to Surplus Center online and read forever. They are a sponsor of the site also.