Ford 1510 Tractor Wont Start Help !

[90cummins]

You need to check your positive or negative battery cables & connections for resistance.

Connect one end of the volt meter to the positive battery terminal and the other to the positive stud on the starter.
There should be zero volts, now try to crank the engine if the volts goes up to 12 your problem is in the cable.
Check the negative cable the same way, negative battery post to tractor ground. A voltage reading of 12 volts in either cable means a defective cable or poor connection.
90cummins

 

[Soundguy]

Load test showed good , battery is strong . it must be starter or soleniod

you have a problem either in test equipment or how you are using your test equipment.

I previouslyt asked if you were testing terminal to terminal or cable clamp to cable clamp.

If your battery droped to 0v at the posts, it CANNOT load test good.

the starter, even if locked, is not enough of a load via the cables to drop that battery to 0 without posts melting, cables glowing red/white like a light bulb, etc.

your data is mutually exclusive!

 

[rookie racer]

Going to Jump Start with my truck tonite. If that doesnt work. Going to check for fusable link.
Scott

 

[rookie racer]

Jumped the tractor with my truck running. Tractor engine with turn over slow but stops, not enough to start engine. I took the new tractor back to Interstate to get a bigger battery , the guy load tested it. it had 700 CCA , said it should be enough to start my tractor. So iam thinking its the starter/solenoid

 

[Soundguy]

And you performed your volt meter yes incorrectly. If that 7xx cca battery load tested goid, no way it loaded to 0v without fire or explosion!

Just sayin..

 

[rookie racer]

And you performed your volt meter yes incorrectly. If that 7xx cca battery load tested goid, no way it loaded to 0v without fire or explosion!

Just sayin..

Sorry. Iam not a specialist on this type of electrical issue. What would be the proper way to measure voltage ?

 

[Soundguy]

You can do a real post to post test under load ( not clamp to clamp ), ..good bat should stay at 10.5v under load, and maybee as low as 8v with a shunt load test ( dont try that ).. If it goes to 0 like you ssid, bat is simply bad...and you can do a voltage drop test from hot post on bat to starter hot post while under load. Higher the reading, the worse the connection.

 

[rookie racer]

Took the starter in to town. They rebuilt the starter. They said the brushes were worn down to nothing. Installed the starter , Same thing . Engine will not turn over. I have removed the fuel tank , looked for a fusable link cannot find it . I also ohm'd the pos. cable and neg. cable , both were good . Thinking maybe the switch is bad. Thing is driving me nuts

 

[Soundguy]

when you turn the key to start, are you getting power to the solenoid activation post?

 

[kirkawilson]

Did you watch the starter/solenoid work on the test stand at the starter repair shop? If so, and you can't 'jump start' from the starter hot post (from battery) to the solenoid, none of the wiring repairs will fix the problem. The problem is somewhere on the battery feed to the starter.