Ford F150-I'm Done.

[ovrszd]

I'm a bit curious about this as well. A thicker pad would simply mean the caliper plunger would have to be pushed back farther to install. Only way this would cause heat is if the caliper plunger is bottomed out and holding the pad tight against the rotor. Wouldn't that mean it was extremely difficult to install because there wasn't enough space between the two pad surfaces for the thickness of the caliper?

The various material types shouldn't create heat either. Usually most common complaint about various materials is that some squeal more when applied.

The cuts in the pad surface are there to help dissipate heat, similar to rotors that are grooved.

Would be interesting to take that Wagner number to a different parts store and see if they claim it's a fit for this particular truck?

 

[ovrszd]

I installed the Wagoner pads and I took my truck to the shop after I realized there was a problem. Pads are very simple to install. When I brought it in and told them what I had done, the owner of the shop, a client and friend of mine, told me about all the issues he has had with Wagoner parts and that he no longer uses them. It was the owner of the shop that got the manager of the store to tell me about all the problems he had encountered selling them. Then later denied saying any of that to me, and then on the phone to my friend. My guess is that somebody at Wagoner, or up high at ABC explained to him that he better shut up and stop saying what he had been saying.

Very frustrating.

I accept errors as a possibility and have no grudge against admitting it and correcting it. When the story changes and nothing is done about the error, then I change vendors.

 

[TheGoose]

Eddie,

I had an almost identical experience with brake pads. Also, be aware that on the F150 one brake pad is slightly different from the other. One has a little hump, one does not. If not correctly installed it will rub.

To all who asked: The electric steering went out at 65K miles, Ford said "sorry, out of warranty". This is a truck that is bone stock, never been in high water etc. OK, chalk it up to bad luck. The repair was a little under $1800 but I paid $150 to have it towed to the dealer as it was unsafe to drive. Then the A/C went out. I charged it a few times until it would no longer hold a charge. Our winter has been extremely warm so I finally caved and got the A/C fixed. The evap coil under the dash (the expensive one) went out.

Spark plugs had to be changed out as well. I later found out that the ecoboost needs much more frequent spark plug changes. The fuel mileage has always been lower than advertised although the truck does have great power.

The truck is also making some kind of weird grinding noise when you turn sharply at low speed and today the brakes somehow locked up.

 

[downsizingnow48]

I have a 2012 f150 with 87k. Front rotors trued up twice and on third set of pads. Rear rotors trued up once and on second set of pads. All work done at dealer some under warranty. This is more brake rehab than on any previous vehicle.

 

[Diamondpilot]

My 2012 F150 has only had one repair on the fan blower motor controller @$80, a set of tires, and a battery.

89,000 miles of which its towed 7,000# to 10,000 about half of them.

You got a lemon!

 

[Paystar]

My friend has a brand new F-150 with the 2.7 Eco-Boost and it's eating engine oil. No one can figure it out. No leaks. it loses 4 litres every 5000 KM.

Like everything else made today....junk.

 

[ovrszd]

My friend has a brand new F-150 with the 2.7 Eco-Boost and it's eating engine oil. No one can figure it out. No leaks. it loses 4 litres every 5000 KM.

Like everything else made today....junk.

I'm so "outdated". I'd never consider a 2.7L engine in a truck.....

 

[aczlan]

I'm a bit curious about this as well. A thicker pad would simply mean the caliper plunger would have to be pushed back farther to install. Only way this would cause heat is if the caliper plunger is bottomed out and holding the pad tight against the rotor. Wouldn't that mean it was extremely difficult to install because there wasn't enough space between the two pad surfaces for the thickness of the caliper?

Probably the metal backing plate was too bit (top to bottom or front to back on the ears) and it was sticking in the bracket (vs retracting).
I have had to grind the ears on a pad down a few times when installing new brakes.

Aaron Z

 

[MinnesotaEric]

I've got a little over 90,000 miles with 40,000 miles towing (estimating in my head from my trailer towing miles on everything) and I'm still on my original brakes. My truck is a 2011 3.5L job ticket 2 truck.

Neggles are the electric compressor that Ford changed out in later years to eliminate but screws up so much that Ford quietly extended the warranty on it out to 150,000 miles.

I drilled a hole in the intercooler to keep the engine from swallowing slugs of water and hydro locking. Ford cannot do this because of the EPA, but all turbo used to have drain holes in their intercoolers for the same reason.

The engine has two known problems that are now resolved in the 2017 redesign of the entire engine. The first is timing chain stretch that is $3000 buck you will not get back when it happens and the second is the high pressure fuel pump seal failing and dumping gas right into the oil pan.

Other than these things the truck has been pretty good.

 

[Green Power]

My 2012 has 180k miles on it, it runs like a top other than a small noise in the rear end.