Framing a house: 2X4 vs 2X6

[Rock knocker]

2X4's makes it easier with window framing as most is setup for 2x4's. windows is the biggest cost and preordering windows to fit a 2x6 can add up

Actually not. It all depends on wether the window is supplied with a liner, or the liner is field constructed. And if the liner is field constructed, is it made of wood, MDF or GWB? Regardless, jam extensions are readily available.

In many areas of siesmic activity, we are finding it easier to make walls which contain DWV plumbing out of nominal 6" material because of the amount of strapping and sistering that is needed when 1 1/2" and 2" DWV pipes are ran thru plates and studs.

 

[tkappeler]

I am getting ready to break ground on a new home in a month or two. I went through the 2x4, 2x6 argument with myself. Settled on 2x4 but am using these wall sections from Raycore. R26 walls in a standard 2x4 cavity. Since I am doing the work, I did not want to deal with packing out the windows and doors with extensions. Meets all codes. Simply drop the sections down and nail top and bottom plates. Still do windows and doors in standard way and fill in above and below with cut sections of panel.

 

[Raspy]

Tom,

How do you run your plumbing and electrical in those walls?

 

[tkappeler]

Tom,

How do you run your plumbing and electrical in those walls?

You carve out some of the foam to run electric and plumbing and backfill with spray (canned) foam. Here is a video that demonstrates it:

You would be doing the same thing if you were building with SIPs anyway (kinda, sorta). I would not have plumbing in the exterior wall anyway, so it's only a few outlets and switches. I am keeping most electrical on interior walls when I can

 

[Rock knocker]

I am keeping most electrical on interior walls when I can

210.52 requires recepticles on < 6' centers in dwelling unit walls.

 

[DonnieP]

There isn't much more heat loss in a 2 x 4 framed wall then a 2 x 6 one. In a wall, a lot of the insulation value is the R value of the wood. You have two inch stud ever 16 inches, so that works out to about 1/8 of your wall is wood only R-value. I know the studs are only 1 5/8", but add in your plates, doubled studs, headers etc and you up there. You have to subtract the area of your windows and doors, that R value doesn't change. When I built my place, it would have taken nearly 20 years for heating cost reduction to pay for increased lumber cost. It was much more cost effective to put extra money into better windows or more insulation in the ceiling. Heat rises so the lose though ceiling is more than through walls. If you're milling your own lumber the cost increase is not that significant.

 

[tkappeler]

210.52 requires recepticles on < 6' centers in dwelling unit walls.

Understood, but I CAN orient my rooms so "convenience" outlets (cable TV, dual nightstands with outlets at each, etc, are on interior walls

 

[jrepp44]

Check out the "High R-Value Wall Assembly-02" it gets high scores:

High R-Value Wall Assemblies — Building Science Information

 

[Obed]

We built our house in TN and moved into it in Jan 2011. We used 2x6 framing for the exterior walls in order to have thicker insulation. Our heating and cooling costs are extremely low. Except during the hottest time of year, we can open our windows in the morning until about 10 or 11 AM then close them to keep the cool air inside the house. For days with outside temps up to 85 F, we stay quite comfortable.

I would highly recommend 2x6 framing if you can do it.

Obed

 

[Rock knocker]

You carve out some of the foam to run electric and plumbing and backfill with spray (canned) foam.

Have you got electrical bids on it? With a proposal of how the wires are to be ran? And who is responsible for removing, repairing and replacing the insualtion? Electricians hate SIPs, and want to do all their runs in the wall. You probably have envisioned vertical runs down to the crawl space or rim. The electrician probably did not bid it that way.