Front wheels locked

[glmf]

as posted, it took me several try to get the oil level to be in the glass. I have found this to be true with the Hydro fluid as well, seems to help to pull the fill cap when checking the hydro fluid, and confirm the readings when using the tractor several times before relaxing. Hope this works out for the OP

 

[sodamo]

UPDATE

Didn't get to do much this week other than gazing forlornly at my baby parked next to the spoils pile and rereading this thread...

Wed I figured I'd give it a go. Still not sure what I did or how, but was able to "free" the 4wd lever. There was also a not very good sound of a metal clunck- like something binding up. However, the front seemed to free up, but I sure didn't feel good about driving it and shut it down.

Figured I'd do the 500 hr service and see what happened. Drained 4+ qts from the front axle. OK, a bit low, but definitely not dry. No metal bits or chunks came out with the oil, no burn odor. Had new filters on hand, but hadn't got new fluids yet, so a trip to town. Friday was rainy and I'm not eager to crawl around the wet ground so much since retiring from the army.

Today I attacked the service, refilled front axle, new coolant, engine oil and filter, grease... but reluctant to change out the hydraulics. At nearly $14/gallon, I was very hesitant, thinking, gee what if that gets dumped to fix what's wrong...

Anyway, after doing all except the hydro, asked the wife to come and listen as I gingerly inched it forward then back a few times. All seemed well, no noises, wheels worked. Figured I'd complete the service and drove down to a spot convenient for that.

Although I was about 12 hours shy of 500 hr service due, the hydro fluid looked pretty bad, almost milky looking compared to new. Of course this didn't show on the dip stick. Anyway, changed all the filters, some metal on the plug magnet, but not excessive. I felt with my finger inside but felt nothing.

So now I've worked about 1.5 hours brush hogging and no problems. Still a mystery what the problem was and if it has indeed gone away -- but my fingers are crossed.

Thanks for all the help.

David

 

[IXLR8]

Glad to hear you are moving again...
Sorry to say.. problems that 'fix' themselves make me nervous!
I wish you the best and may this issue never return.

 

[wallace]

Now this is one time that I am glad I was proved wrong.

 

[sodamo]

I'm with you , Jim. Makes me very nervous. One thing to breakdown 50 ft from the house, quite another at the other end of the property.

I hoped you were wrong too, Rick.

So, another 2+ hours on the meter today without incident. My brush hogging isn't for the faint of heart- all done in 4wd, low range. Multiple usage of the diff lock as the tractor migrates to 3 and sometimes just 2 wheels. Back to doing some bucket work this week. My fingers are crossed.

David

 

[Highbeam]

I've broken transmission gears in motorcycles and the missing tooth would make a tick every time it went around. These were spur gears and not R&P style gears. The tick was the subtle clue that I had broken a gear. The real unsubtle clue was when that chunk of broken gear would swim into the mesh and lock up the tranny resulting in a skid.

Bottom line: Hope that you don't have a chunk swimming around somewhere.

Oh and my HST fluid looked milky too. I think it is water from the condensation and our humid environments.

 

[sodamo]

"Oh and my HST fluid looked milky too. I think it is water from the condensation and our humid environments."

My thought as well. Sure looked bad though.

David

 

[intel]

I JB weld little magnets, The super magnets ( the strong ones), on the end of every drain plug. This may help
I get the magnets at ACE hardware, break the plastic off and use just a little JB weld probably would not even need the JB weld, but i use just to be sure.

 

[mrutkaus]

Whew, jb welding magnets has occurred to me but what if they come off and get in the gears?

Mike

 

[intel]

be sure and take a dremel motor tool and use a grinding stone to scratch the end of the drain plug and the one side of the magnet. This helps the JB weld to adhere better. plus you still have the magnetic properties holding to.
Or if possible sometimes Advanced auto parts have some drain plugs that are magnetized if will fit but be carfule they are not to long.