General "getting started" questions about building a barn

[astrohip]

Just closed on a new property, need to build a barn, and I am looking for feedback (and an education) from y'all. I have some general questions first, and then I can start to develop a more detailed plan (and come back with more specific questions).

At my old place, I had a 25x40 open-sided metal building, with concrete slab. It had a 12x25 tuff-shed (workshop) up against one end. Both were great to have (they were already there), but I've learned I want more space. I'm thinking 40/or/48 by 60 or so, with a workshop inside. Here are some thoughts & questions, love to hear your feedback.

This will be in Brenham TX, where the cold is not much of a factor, but heat is. I can easily live without any heat, or just heat in the shop part. But must have good ventilation for summers. And I know you will ask, "what are you going to do with it?" It will be to store my tractors, attachments, tools, mower, gators, trailers, etc. Just general farm & ranch stuff. Pleasure farm, not working.


* Metal or wood? It seems metal buildings are preferred, and I'm ok with that. My only concern is I love to hang things from the walls, and organize stuff. It seems with wood studs that's pretty easy; not sure how metal framing affects my desire to over-organize.

* It seems many of you build an outside area, covered but not enclosed, as an extension of your barns. Why would I need that? What do you do with it?

* I love having a workshop. My plan is to build it inside the barn, wood framed, probably around 20x25. Deck the top, and make that storage.

* What height do I want? I have no specific requirements (ie, special equipment), but want to have room for most possibilities.

* I'm intending to have big overhead doors, plus at least one std entry-type door. I need the doors for both entry & ventilation. But I would also like to be able to drive thru. It's much easier to drive in with a trailer, unhitch, and drive out, rather than back in. (see attached drawing, not to scale) But I'm thinking it's better to add Door "C" so I can drive thru and exit "A", rather than attempt to add Doors "B" and drive that way.

I'm at the stage where I just need info to help me create a general layout. Once I have a size & layout down, I will sketch it out and come back with questions about all the details--lights & drains & elec & etc.

My budget is generous, but not unlimited. Feel free to respond to any part of this you have feedback on. I've attached a pic of my old barn setup, so y'all can see how I used it. Plus a rough, not-to-scale of a new one, mainly so I could ask about door layouts.

Thanks!

 

[SPIKER]

first thing is to NOT get too jumpy, take a bit of time to explore the winds and sun/solar path on your land to see what the actual spot/layout would best fit those local conditions. It might be that you initially want the barn to go is the worst spot to put it after seeing how rains, wind, sun and such treats that spot. You might find that turning the barn a few degrees one way or the other can greatly increase the air flow in summer or decrease blowing dust, leaves or ?? etc...

One thing is to put clear panels at the top sides 3 or 4 feet to make use of solar lighting inside thru the day. Incorporate good ventilation from the get-go so heat in summer is mitigated along with steep south overhang to keep heat down in summer.

Open sheds are common for storing farm equipment it makes accessing & servicing equipment easy & keeps the rain/snow off the top or you will working on it.

Also plan ahead for the services you want and where you want/need them. If/When you want concrete make sure there are some underground piping for new or added services such as network, cameras or water/sewer.

M

 

[Wagtail]

This is the shed that I had built. Its front is south facing to keep it cool and minimise sun damage. A clear roof panel in the workshop provides all the light that I need from the sun. Build it away from trees, taking into consideration future growth... shade is nice but potential tree damage repair is expensive. This shed is all metal 'colorbond', which is fairly standard now in Australia and the manufacturer is more than happy to plan additional roller doors. ($)

If you can afford it, a reenforced concrete slab floor is a must-have. Implements can then be mounted on wheeled pallets to easily manoeuvre them & store them out of the way.

 

[astrohip]

Thanks Wagtail. Love that water collection system. I hadn't thought about one, but that's a great idea.

I plan on a concrete slab. And I have built dollies for most of my attachments. Here's one...

 

[Wagtail]

Ta for that astrohip. I'm not on 'town water' and would have included the tank in the plans anyway but the local Shire insisted on a water management system as part of their building approval. Which equals fees, fees & more fees leading to an increase of your property assessment 'cause you've made an improvement.

The water is used primarily to water the horses and, occasionally, to wash down the tractors when they get too dirty (when I can barely tell that they're JD green).

It's a 5000 litre tank and, just like a tractor, I should have gone bigger (10,000) but the one I got was on sale with the pump, delivered. Naturally, a month later they had a 10,000 litre package deal but it was too late by then.

Oh, I like the spray can rack. I'm going to nick that idea! :thumbsup:

 

[NewfieDan]

Will the metal clad building be too hot in the summer heat? It's been my experience that metal clad buildings are hotter on summer and colder in winter. Will the heat be too much in Texas?

You will most likely need some engineering for a shop as large as you are talking. The roof trusses might be hard to find for a 40/48 x 60 shop.

Like others have said, take some time and plan it out. It's worth in the long run. Will you need water, sewer(for bathroom or wash sink), telephone/intercom, security to protect your investments.

What will you be doing in the shop? Vehicle maintenance, wood working? What power will you need? The higher the roof the more lighting you will need during the dark. If you are doing vehicle mtce, consider low height lighting. A buddy did a lot of vehicle repair so I put on fluorescent lighting at about 2ft above ground. No trouble light for those brake jobs.

As for the concrete go little thicker to stop cracks. Here mine is about 3-1/2in. Where I lived before was about 5in. The old place had no cracks after 11yrs. Here mine was cracked after 1yr. And use lots of rebar. Lots up here use the wire mesh, but I find the mesh breaks and let's cracks happen.

 

[astrohip]

Good feedback. If metal gets too hot, what's the alternative? Stick frame? As far as engineering, I will ultimately go with a company that does this for a living, and if they need to adjust the size to fit some standards, that's easy to do. The area this is going is wide open, and flexible size-wise.

I have thought about water, etc. Security too, just not sure what to do on that front. Still thinking about that.

I don't need a lot of height, but don't want to design something too short either. I have pallet racks, and need to make sure they will fit in. I *think* they're 12' tall. I just play around in my barn--woodworking projects, tractor maint., general storage, etc.

Good info on the concrete. Will make sure I get a thick slab. We sometimes go thru drought cycles, and I'd like to make sure it doesn't shift & crack every time the ground heaves.

 

[bigtiller]

I built a tin shed in 2013 with 14' walls. For the ceiling, I put on the same tin as the walls have, and then I had fiberglass insulation blown in to an R42 factor.

It's not any hotter inside than it is outside. As a bonus, it is also quieter on windy or rainy days.

 

[cmyoung2]

Progressive Farmer has a book on farm shops, lots of good ideas. Height is your friend, make your doors at least 9', maybe more. 9' handles most farm type trailers, most small to mid size tractors. Higher may be better. I generally like taller buildings, 12'+ inside height, or I will poke holes in the ceiling. Concrete is good, slope to a drain, but not too much slope, just enough so you can wash stuff down or out when needed. Add a bathroom. Repeat-Add a bathroom. Keeps wife happy when you can clean up before you come in the house, more convenient when you are in the middle of something, safer if you need to was down in a hurry after a spill. get a source of hot water and you are set. Doesn't have to be big, mine is 4x8 with room for a shower and water heater.
I have an arch type metal building, love it for price and ease of erection. Needs insulation. Would be nice to have stud type wall to hang stuff on. Make sure you have plenty of power and lights. I have double duplex outlets every 4' down both walls ( 4 different circuits) couple of more hanging from the ceiling. I also have phone and internet lines run to the shop.

 

[astrohip]

Progressive Farmer has a book on farm shops, lots of good ideas. Height is your friend, make your doors at least 9', maybe more. 9' handles most farm type trailers, most small to mid size tractors. Higher may be better. I generally like taller buildings, 12'+ inside height, or I will poke holes in the ceiling. Concrete is good, slope to a drain, but not too much slope, just enough so you can wash stuff down or out when needed. Add a bathroom. Repeat-Add a bathroom. Keeps wife happy when you can clean up before you come in the house, more convenient when you are in the middle of something, safer if you need to was down in a hurry after a spill. get a source of hot water and you are set. Doesn't have to be big, mine is 4x8 with room for a shower and water heater.
I have an arch type metal building, love it for price and ease of erection. Needs insulation. Would be nice to have stud type wall to hang stuff on. Make sure you have plenty of power and lights. I have double duplex outlets every 4' down both walls ( 4 different circuits) couple of more hanging from the ceiling. I also have phone and internet lines run to the shop.

Good info. Off to Progressive Farmer's site... and back. Wow, lots of info. One very cool tip (I'll just quote) "set out stakes and caution tape to represent the footprint of the 80- by 105-foot building he was planning to build. He tested various configurations to assure he was leaving adequate space for moving equipment into the building and around his compact farmyard." Great tip. And lots more. Thanks for the lead.

I had planned on a bathroom, wasn't sure about a shower. Will have to think about it.

bigtiller--good to know a well-insulated metal building can stay cool. I plan on insulating it.