General "getting started" questions about building a barn

   / General "getting started" questions about building a barn #21  
astrohip:

You might want to check with the building inspector on that rain cistern system. Might not be an issue in Texas, but plenty of municipalities in California have all kinds of eco-freak regulations about capturing and holding rain water.
 
   / General "getting started" questions about building a barn
  • Thread Starter
#22  
No issue in Texas. And to double-dip the "no issue", in Texas if you're not in a city, you are governed by counties, which have almost no regs. We barely have building codes (I'm not saying that's good or bad, just commenting). And the only water regulations I'm aware of is the EPA wetlands rules, which is of course Fed, not state.
 
   / General "getting started" questions about building a barn #23  
Astrohip, I'm with you on the shop. As mentioned by others, planning is really the key here. When I built my last shop (24x40) I added an attached carport (10x40). The roof trusses just extended over the port. I wish that I had made that part 12' wide as I park my pickup under it and opening the doors one has to be a little careful. Didn't think of that! I originally had considered a metal building, but thought better of it. The reason for that is I knew I wanted a finished interior (and well insulated). As a result, I concluded it would be cheaper in the end to go with a wood framed building. I like your thinking on the second tier floor for storage for part of it. I have been to Houston and minus your humidity we have very hot weather here in Northern California. I used 2x6 wall construction and it didn't really cost that much more than 2x4. Obviously, I got more insulation in the walls and the overhead is R30. With a swamp cooler (evaporative) I can keep it pretty comfortable. With a 200amp sub-panel I was able to run many 20amp circuits because I had the space in the box. I also had lots of panel space for welder, compressor, etc. circuits even if you don't plan on having 200a, you still have the panel room for expansion. Outside outlets are a must and I wish that I had put a 240v/50amp plug outside. I ducted airlines from my compressor using 'PEX' water lines for remote air connections. They will handle 600psi with no connections like PVC pipe would. Water is a must, even if it is just for washing up. A toilet is something I wish that I had included as the nearest one is 150' away at the house. I have a roll-up door that is only 10' wide by 8' high, but in my case serves me well. It's a chain drive and was only about $650. I pre-wired for stereo and speakers. The walls are 9' and the interior pitch of the ceiling is a 5/12. This gives me plenty of room to flip materials over w/o hitting the lights. I put in a ceiling fan (like a house fan) to bring the heat down in the winter and circulate the conditioned air in the summer. I have a wood stove. I have a dedicated room to store my tools (left over from being a general contractor) and an office. The office has internet connection and what you would find in any office. One advantage to this is I am able to secure this space against theft (gun safe, etc.) and keep out airbourne contamination from welding, wood and grinding. I didn't want too many shelves in the main space. I like having my shop tools on casters as I can easily transition from wood work to metal work. This gives me maximum flexibility considering the space. My welding table (4x8) is on casters as well. I have a rolling 6x6 verticle canvas covered tarp that I use when I need to grind or cut metal so sparks don't get into trouble. I added a couple of rainbird spinklers to the top of the roof as well. I always advise anyone thinking of doing a shop to add at least two future conduits to their panel that lead to the outside. It's really hard to anticipate what you will want to do in the future and it's so much easier now. An example is I added a ground mount electric solar system a couple of years after building the shop. It would have been so handy to have those conduits in place and cheaper. I didn't follow my own advice. Who knew? Anyway, my intent isn't to brag about what I have, but to give you some food for thought. It's funny how it works. You think about what you need and as time goes by you want more because it's such a great space. If you have planned for the changes it's a lot easier to do. There is nothing wrong with waiting to do things later when you have the coin, but a lot easier if you have made provisions for it. Oh, and don't scrimp on the concrete apron outside your shop. Also, make sure you have an understanding with your concrete contractor that you expect a level and uniform floor. Don't hire the cheapest guy unless you are sure you will get that floor. You will have to live with it. Good luck and I hope that I have given you some ideas!
 
   / General "getting started" questions about building a barn
  • Thread Starter
#24  
REALLY good feedback! The more I read here (and think about it), the more I realize keeping shelving in the main shop to a minimum helps in cleanup.

You mention air lines. Where is your compressor, inside or outside? Does the noise become an issue? I've thought about putting a compressor and water heater in their own little framed in space maybe.

What would you do if you had 240v outside? (I assume you have it inside).

And last, you have wood frame on a concrete slab? So everything, joists & all, is simply framed like a house? (except 2x6) How thick is your slab, and does that work for you?

Again, great ideas! Thanks.
 
   / General "getting started" questions about building a barn #25  
Astrohip,
Yeah, it's on a 4" slab. I have built in Texas back in the 80's when we had no work here. I am familiar with your regulations or lack of them. That's the good and the bad my friend. My compressor is in that room that I discribed as my 'office'. I'm not in it when it is running. Like I said, it's hard to anticipate what you will want. There's no problem though, since if the compressor is running I'm in the main work area. As far as the 240v goes, I have a decent concrete apron in front of the building. This is key, because in good weather you will want to be outside doing your welding, for instance. If I had such an outlet outside I wouldn't have to use an extention cord which is quite massive. Just more convenient. Make sure that floor is FLAT.
 
   / General "getting started" questions about building a barn
  • Thread Starter
#26  
Astrohip,
Yeah, it's on a 4" slab.<snip> Make sure that floor is FLAT.
Are you happy with 4"? Any issues? Do you have any kind of drain in your slab?

Noted on the flat slab. VIP!
 
   / General "getting started" questions about building a barn #27  
The four inch is fine. You do need to have a footing that is about 12x12" around the perimeter. If you like, contact me at 530.921.3220 and I will send you a text msg w/ a photo of the shop. Anything I can do to help you I will. Loved the people I met in Texas.
 
   / General "getting started" questions about building a barn #28  
I built a tin shed in 2013 with 14' walls. For the ceiling, I put on the same tin as the walls have, and then I had fiberglass insulation blown in to an R42 factor.

It's not any hotter inside than it is outside. As a bonus, it is also quieter on windy or rainy days.

Hi AstroHip,

We're in the rust/snobelt of upstate NY, and even when it was below 0 this winter, and above 90 last summer, our wood-framed, metal clad barn was respectively warmer and cooler than the ambient air temps, even with [or because of] soffit vents and a ridge-vent coupled with a thin [1/2"] fiberglass under-roof insulation layer and vapor-barrier [the vapor-barrier was sealed with tape throughout and faces the open inside of the barn.

Adding a fan or kerosene heater makes the inside even more apparently different [either way] from the outside.

I would have like to have insulated my slab underneath with rigid foam, but I let $$ and our concrete guy talk me out of it- wish I'd more $ and stuck to my guns there- freezing my behind off laying under my truck this winter taught me that.

Good Luck,
Thomas

PS: Reading along further into the thread a couple of other things came to mind:

The longer you can make your overhangs [within reason and $$], especially on the sunny side, but also in general, the less sun will beat on the walls and into the windows, and the less weather will hit the walls.

Also think about going on and looking here: Pole Barn Kits and Pole Buildings even though I didn't end up soing with them for our barn, I learned a ton from their site.
 
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