General "getting started" questions about building a barn

[PhysAssist]

Quite a site! Lots to read... thanks

No worries- I'm still finishing my barn project: planning started in 8/2012, the main structure was laid out and built [by "professionals"] in 12/2012, the concrete floor slab poured in 10/2013, and for the past year we have used it to assess and decide what we need for use and storage, and now we're trying to finalize interior storage, and hopefully soon afterwards the electrical and lighting.

Our project has been delayed by illness, injury, weather, and now most recently by the need to replace our house roof [BTW, we're going with a metal roof on our log house to reduce summer cooling costs by reflecting, rather than absorbing, infrared energy from the sun.]

Beat of luck!
Thomas

PS: Shirley at Hansen Pole Barns was awesome, continuing to help us even after she knew we were going elsewhere for our materials.

 

[John Dougherty]

astrohip:

You might want to check with the building inspector on that rain cistern system. Might not be an issue in Texas, but plenty of municipalities in California have all kinds of eco-freak regulations about capturing and holding rain water.

Dr Z, I was caught by surprise on that as well. I did put in a catch system (currently 8k gals), but I did check out the California Water Act of 2012. It basically states that one can capture all of the water they want from their roof top. Surface water, not so much. Texas, to my knowledge, actually encourages the capturing of rain water. They have ponds (called tanks in Texas) for that purpose. Oregon believe it or not, forbids the retention of any rain water that lands on your property whether it comes from the roof or anywhere else. Apparently, that belongs to the STATE. Go figure. My guess is at some point I will be taxed on the Sun as it strikes my solar panels. Stranger things have happened.

 

[John Dougherty]

A couple pictures of my building, 40' x 60' steel clear span Sharron Steel Bldgs. 26 gage galvalume sheeting. Built 1991, 14' side walls 3-12 pitch 4' over hang 1.5' on gable ends. One exterior man door, one 12' x 12' garage door, one 14' X 12' slider door. Center partition wall with steel interior man door, steel galvanize purlins and girts Non expandable end walls, middle columns are 6 gage with a 18" section, single sided weld, 40' X 30' heated with 4.0" reinforced concrete with wire and 1.0 insulation board and 40' X 30' not heated with gravel floor, 6" x 72" rolled insulation with reinforced poly in heated side, 2" in non heated side, 100,000 BTU Reznor, heater, original gutters gone due to ice. 200 amp dedicated service all electrics in conduit. Water is piggy backed from my home. Cost in 1991 dollars $40K. High pressure sodium lights 400 watts $800 used, interior walls are steel roof decking 22 gage approx. $900. Plus a lot of other incidentals and toys.

One of your questions concerned hanging shelves and or any thing from the interior walls of a steel build. The roof decking could not have been a better fit for my interior walls. I put down another base angle and the roof decking is screwed between the middle girt and the new bottom base angle, they are 8' and 9' high respectively. I painted it bright white when initially installed but 24 years later it is starting to show it's age. I have done a lot of arcing and sparking inside my building. I use self drilling screws to attach anything to the walls. .31 hex. The green shelving is attached to the walls with the SD screws. The bottom edge of the shelving just catches the 10 block for vertical support. I can sweep under all of the shelving. Non of the shelving is sitting on the floor. Everything else show on the walls is fully supported by the roof decking, the bottom base angle and the middle girt. I have been buying the garden hose brackets from HF cutting them in half and screwing them to the walls the with the SD screws. They make excellent hooks. I have a one block exposure, 10" block, on a separate footer, between the column piers. The concrete floor on the heated side is also pined to that block. Maybe this will give you some ideas. Later.View attachment 415881View attachment 415882View attachment 415883View attachment 415884View attachment 415885View attachment 415886View attachment 415887

That is humbling. VERY NICE!

 

[John Dougherty]

I have to ask...in the last picture, are you dehumidifying the firewood?

 

[oldtimer 66]

John Dougherty, on the last picture it was the only inside picture I had of the cold side of my building. Yes that is where I store my firewood for the following heating season. I would rather have it inside under cover versus outside and that is partly because I have the extra room to do it. It does dry the wood to a certain point because of the gravel floor but after that it just how do you say this, It maintains the same humidity as that part of the building. It is definitely better than stacking it outside and covering it with a tarp and thanks very much for you comment on my building.

 

[John Dougherty]

John Dougherty, on the last picture it was the only inside picture I had of the cold side of my building. Yes that is where I store my firewood for the following heating season. I would rather have it inside under cover versus outside and that is partly because I have the extra room to do it. It does dry the wood to a certain point because of the gravel floor but after that it just how do you say this, It maintains the same humidity as that part of the building. It is definitely better than stacking it outside and covering it with a tarp and thanks very much for you comment on my building.

Oldtimer 66,
Is that a sliding door in front of the pickup? Your lights are an interesting choice. They couldn't have been cheap to purchase. I assume they are coupled with a ballast and if so, what voltage are you using for them. That green tractor is a nice choice for the color of your shop. I'm afraid my red tractor would clash with it. These things are important. Ha!
John

 

[Wagtail]

Regarding metal versus wood construction, I would have thought that metal would be the way to go these days. It's practically standard here in Oz.

Especially when it comes to temperature/environmental extremes. Wood, unless maintained, deteriorates under wind/rain/UV rays/white ants, etc... whereas metal is a longer term investment.

 

[John Dougherty]

Regarding metal versus wood construction, I would have thought that metal would be the way to go these days. It's practically standard here in Oz.

Especially when it comes to temperature/environmental extremes. Wood, unless maintained, deteriorates under wind/rain/UV rays/white ants, etc... whereas metal is a longer term investment.

Wagtail, good to hear from our friends down under. I have stucco on my shop. More money? Possibly, but no install, no mats, no paint. Plus I get an R-5 insulation value from the foam underneath. I think that Hardy plank actually came from Australia if not mistaken. Good product to be sure. For our friends not familiar with Hardy, it is basically a concrete siding which is very good, indeed. Thanks.

 

[Wagtail]

"Hardy" plank, eh? That's the first I've heard of it, but that's not saying much from me.

It reminds me of the days of 'fibro' sheeting which was corrugated or flat pressed cladding made from asbestos. Heck, there are houses here built [1950's 'til they banned it] from the stuff!

 

[oldtimer 66]

John Dougherty the lights are 400 watt multiple voltage I wired them for 120 volt they were all used lights high pressure sodium I paid from $100 for 5 and just recently $150 for 2 the new price maybe $400 the bulb lumens 45k to 50k and the bulb life is 25k hours difficult to find in the lower voltage all sealed no mice chewing the wires the garage door is on the left heated side and the slider is on the right side of the building yes I have worked on some of those red tractors it is difficult but I did it not many around this area