Snow How do you all avoid rust forming on your tractors from road salt?

   / How do you all avoid rust forming on your tractors from road salt?
  • Thread Starter
#21  
Awesome advice -- thanks guys!!! I heat with a wood boiler so I could use my ash -- although it sounds like it would create quite the mess if I tracked it into the house.

The tractor is coming tomorrow -- got the call today. Unfortunately it is coming on the truck and NOT wrapped. Bummer. Should I hose it down in my unheated garage after it gets here to remove any salt that may be on it? Use dish soap?

I am going to look for the 'Rust Check' product but it looks like something I will have to order so it won't be here for tomorrow.
 
   / How do you all avoid rust forming on your tractors from road salt? #22  
Its a tractor , not a street rod ,or classic car . Use it for what needs to be done . Salt , hose it off when you can . I have been using backhoes, bobcats , and tractors in the snow and salt in Maryland for 30 years . It wont look new forever . As slow as a tractor moves pushing snow or using the loader you wont get much salt on it anyway . I have rust spots, scratches , dents on my equipment , they still do the job . Corrosion has not ever been a issue .

I have teased my boys ( ages 6 and 9 ) when they get a new toy to leave it in the box and dont play with it , in 20 years it may be worth something .
 
   / How do you all avoid rust forming on your tractors from road salt? #23  
I live about one mile from a paved road. It is called a gravel road but that is questionable. In the summer they put down salt brine on the road to keep the dust down. Generally 4 to 6 times a year is what the township likes to do, as a standard protocol. It is some times a lot more frequent say when the township is working on a distant road and they are using your road to move materials, suspect gravel tri axle trucks other equipment etc. That is great for keeping the dust down but it eats away your vehicles. He is the scenario. You drive on the roads during the day, summer time. Your car still picks up some dust. The salt brine does not eliminate all of the dust. Your vehicle sets outside over night and the dew settles on you car and activates the salt brine. 24 hour a day chemical attack. The worst thing to do is to drive on the road right after it has been treated with the salt brine, but you got to get home. It coats your vehicle with little gobs of brine laden mud. In a very short period of time, only days, that mixture will start to eat away on your vehicle unless it is completely rinsed off. After a couple of days those little gobs come off really hard. Then in the winter time the main roads are salted and some type of liquid chloride is also used. So there you have 12 months of chemical attach on your vehicles. I remember my first new truck. a 1978 Chevy .5 ton 4 wheel drive short bed. In 5 years living and driving on the gravel/dirt roads with that new truck the rear wheel backing plates had holes rotted thru them. I needed to replace the backing plates, wheel cylinders because none of the hardware would break loose, lines and mounting bolts, the U-bolts, nuts and retaining plates for the rear springs. In my garage I keep a small supple of brake line fittings, a role of .19 and .25 brake line, a couple quarts of brake fluid, etc. My brother in-law still farms. He purchased a new chopper box, New Holland, back in the early nineties. A chopper box is only used for maybe at the very most 3 months out of the year but probably much less. This summer I had to replace the rear axle struts because they were almost completely gone/ rotted away. My 2010 825I Gator with 3900 miles is looking a little rugged underneath even though I keep it reasonable clean. Just a FYI on salt brine. Later.
 
   / How do you all avoid rust forming on your tractors from road salt?
  • Thread Starter
#24  
Oldtimer -- that sounds horrible.

Tractor came today!! They tried to wrap it up after they got on the road, which is nice. Thanks for the help guys. I ordered some 'Rust Check' like product that will be here tomorrow.

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   / How do you all avoid rust forming on your tractors from road salt? #25  
Lookin good! What's the storage behind the seat? How did the mower work on snow?
Probably won't happen when new, but a loader will come down some time, don't want anything (or one) you value under it.
Jim
 
   / How do you all avoid rust forming on your tractors from road salt? #26  
Wax the snot out of it! I use Zip wash 'n' wax.
Another thing you should do is get some dielectric grease and liberally coat all of your electrical connections including the battery terminals.

That might work on Canada salt. Sure wouldn't work on Missouri Salt. The smooth painted surfaces are not the problem. And it's so darn hard to get the dried wax wiped off the chassis parts that is the real problem. :)

Most electrical connectors today are sealed. If so dielectric grease won't do much. But if your Kioti connectors are not sealed, then grease away. :)
 
   / How do you all avoid rust forming on your tractors from road salt? #27  
Oldtimer -- that sounds horrible.

Tractor came today!! They tried to wrap it up after they got on the road, which is nice. Thanks for the help guys. I ordered some 'Rust Check' like product that will be here tomorrow.

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Did you tell them they could leave the entire truckload with you?
And get that beauty in your profile or your sig!
 
   / How do you all avoid rust forming on your tractors from road salt?
  • Thread Starter
#28  
The guy drove off a B series first -- if it would have had a mower deck I would have tried to do some horse trading.

jimmy -- the storage on the back of the seat is for manuals (I still need to put mine in there) and the mower deck will be coming off ASAP. I have the BXpanded armor to put on underneath it.

The tractor was parked only for a short time period with the bucket up. I needed to move some stuff around in the garage to get it to fit.

Box is on the seat to keep the barn cats off.
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   / How do you all avoid rust forming on your tractors from road salt? #29  
Calcium and magnesium chlorides are quite hygroscopic, whereas NaCl (rock salt) is much less so. The former two are used in warehouses as well as on roads to keep dust down in warm weather. As OT66 suggests they're tough on gear year 'round, pulling moisture from the air and wicking into tiny spaces to wreak havoc. Summer heat speeds corrosive action of the dust reducers, and here in MI it's long been winter salt that's misguidedly blamed for what CaCl on dirt roads has done to our vehicles.

Rinse, rinse, rinse, and take advantage of a spring rain once in a while to do the work for you by parking outside. (how my cars/trucks get washed) btw, I knew a guy who regularly trigger-sprayed ArmorAll under the hoods of cars/trucks when home from the car wash, and while everything was still warm from the drive. Far better than that shiny clear stuff used to 'polish' up used cars under-hood, it lets dirt slough off with a quick, light rinse at the next wash. I wouldn't go nuts with a pressure washer, as water can be 'injected' into the wrong places without chlorides.

Other than environmental impact, I always thought AA could also work everywhere on tractors & implements. That I haven't tried it and reported is what usually happens when I promise something, and I'm still making up for lost time spraying FF on and under half a dozen vehicles. :eek:
 
   / How do you all avoid rust forming on your tractors from road salt? #30  
I don't drive my tractor on the road during the winter. :)
 
 
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