How do you like your 62D drive over mower deck?

   / How do you like your 62D drive over mower deck? #21  
There is an installation kit that is required to attach the mower to the tractor the part number from Deere is LVB25260. If you do not have the manual you can access it at deere.com.
 
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   / How do you like your 62D drive over mower deck?
  • Thread Starter
#22  
Thanks. I was looking at the online manual and didnt really notice it saying anything about an install kit.
 
   / How do you like your 62D drive over mower deck? #23  
I have a 62D on my 2520 and couldn't ask for a better cut. Yeah it scalps the ground in some spots and misses in others but that is what you get while mowing in some uneven terrain. I recently mowed 5 acres of 5 inch grass. Took about 2.5 - 3 hours but I was taking it nice and slow. Ill now be able to mow that same area in about an hour because I can cruise right along on the short grass. All in all totally worth the money and makes you like your tractor even more.
 
   / How do you like your 62D drive over mower deck? #24  
I don't know exactly how all the options work on the MMM but I have the independent lift kit. That gives me an extra one way cylinder under the tractor to raise and lower the deck using the bucket tilt control on the 4 way stick. When I have the bucket and mower on, I either have the mower locked up and full bucket control (yellow connector to the loader) or mower control (yellow connector to the mower lift) and no bucket tilt control but still have raise lower control. Of course, this is pretty academic to me since I seldom have both the loader and mower on at the same time (they are so easy to change).

The option I didn't buy was the diverter valve that allows you to keep all five hoses hooked all the time. You still can only use it as I described above since you still only have the single 4 way control.

As I understand it, the basic installation kit uses the 3 point rockshaft to lift the mower, so it moves with the 3 point lift (unless you have the mower deck locked up).
 
   / How do you like your 62D drive over mower deck? #25  
As Kenny says, if you have the independent lift kit, you use the 2 outlets on the SCV that would normally control the "curl" function of the loader. If you have the optional diverter valve, this gives you another 2 outlets, so you can leave all 6 hoses connected. You can control the hydraulic flow to either the 4 loader connections or the 2 lift connections by means of a control valve lever which is mounted on the lower inside fender, which you can reach from the tractor seat. The independent lift kit comes with an adjustment knob, where you can set the cut height, as well as a setting that will lock the deck in the up position


The mechanical lift uses the 3pth to lift the mower, therefore the 3pth moves up and down with the deck. JD has a lock-up kit, consisting of 2 chains and a couple of brackets, where you can mechanically hold up the deck, with the chains, which would then allow the 3pth to move independently, once the deck was "chained" in the up position. The cut height with this system is controlled by the position of the rockshaft lever.

I have a 2520, and the mechanical system using 3pth to lift and lower the deck. I also have the "chain" lock-up kit. Pretty much the only time I use the lock-up kit is when I have my blade on the front for snow plowing, and the lock-up kit holds up rear mower deck lift arms up and out of the way.

The only time I can see where you would use, or need the independent lift for the mower, is if you want to keep the deck on, and still have full independent control of an implement on the 3pth. I think in most cases, if I was using something on the 3pth, I wouldn't want the deck on at the same time.

REV
 
   / How do you like your 62D drive over mower deck? #26  
From what I understand there are 2 different 62D mowers----one fits only the 2320 and the other fits the 2520 and 2720. Supposedly the 62D for the 2520 won't fit on a 2320?
 
   / How do you like your 62D drive over mower deck? #27  
From what I understand there are 2 different 62D mowers----one fits only the 2320 and the other fits the 2520 and 2720. Supposedly the 62D for the 2520 won't fit on a 2320?

Maybe, but I thought the decks were the same but the installation kits were different. My 2320 delivery was a little late because the dealer thought he had the installation kit in stock, but when he actually pulled it out it was a 2520 installation kit instead of a 2320 and he had to get the correct one. There is probably someone here who knows for sure.
 
   / How do you like your 62D drive over mower deck? #28  
They are totally different.

Greg
 

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   / How do you like your 62D drive over mower deck? #29  
JeffinNE said:
From what I understand there are 2 different 62D mowers----one fits only the 2320 and the other fits the 2520 and 2720. Supposedly the 62D for the 2520 won't fit on a 2320?

The deck for the 2320 will have the model number "62D1", while the one for the 2520/2720 will be a "62D2". I believe one of the differences is the positioning of the ramps because of the different front wheel track width.
 
   / How do you like your 62D drive over mower deck? #30  
My 2 cents on the 62D: I have had one for 3 years on my 2520. I generally like the deck, it's the easiest deck I've ever hooked up and it works pretty well. Some problems I've had however - mine came with squared edge wheels and the front castor wheels didn't turn worth a crap and always dug trenches in the grass. JD gave me the newer wheels with very round profile. I drilled and installed grease fittings on the front castors so that the bushings can be greased. This solved the turning problem great. I have the mechanical lift mechanism that uses the 3 point lift arms to lift the deck. Given the dislike I keep hearing about the hydraulic lift kit I'd advise against spending that money. The 3 point lift works just fine to control height very accurately but you need the lockup kit if you do other things with your tractor. Even with the deck removed you will have the deck mounting hardware dragging on the ground whenever you lower the 3 point to do other tasks. JD gets a fortune for the lockup kit but you can buy two "D" clevis, two hitch pins (3/8 I think) and two of the right sized turnbuckles and it works almost as good as the JD lockup kit and will only cost you 10 bucks. I intend to replace the turnbuckles with short pieces of chain which would work better and be almost identical to the JD kit. Only problem is the chain must be the exact length required if you are going to keep the hardware up tight to the machine. I take the lift hardware (just the stuff that's pinned on and hangs down) off the machine in the winter. Even with the mounting hardware locked in the highest position I have bent stuff before while driving through the woods hauling firewood. My deck has the brackets and pins to lift the deck but I never use them. You can use them to lift the deck with the I-Match or the 3 point lift arms. I don't have a loader on my machine so I can only use the 3 point lift arms and it's such a pain that I never use that feature. I've used the 3 point to lift the deck for cleaning and removing blades but quite frankly that's an accident just waiting to happen. Never lift stuff with hydraulics and go underneath to work on it. Lifting with the loader would be safer if you can tilt the deck up vertical and never have to actually be under it while working. I really like the driveover attachment method but I think they should figure out another way to lift the deck up after you detach and drive off. When you detach the deck and drive away you now have the deck sitting directly one the ground and I can't move it without lifting it with the 3 point or by lifting each corner and setting the wheels so they hold the deck off the ground. I manually lift each corner, pin the wheels, and then I can roll the deck against my garage wall for storage. The deck is almost too heavy for me to lift each corner by hand so sometimes I end up using a pry bar. I have also not always been happy with the cut. When traveling in a straight line it cuts great. When going around a corner you have to go real slow or it leaves uncut streaks. Not sure if this is typical of 3 bladed decks or if I'm doing something wrong. Just thought I'd point out problems I've had even though they are minor and this is a very nice deck. Hopefully JD has fixed the castor wheel problem as this is something that should neve have happened. If JD listened to commemts from people like us they could easily fix many of the minor things and make this the perfect deck.
 
 
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