How do you like your 62D drive over mower deck?

[bbackyard]

Here is a picture of the turnbuckle that I have mention. Is this correct? notice the thread depth. . I will check to see if the knob hits when mower is fully lifted.

 

[KennyG]

Hi KennyG,
Can you take a couple of pictures of your mower mounted to the tractor and post it?

I won't be able to get pictures until the weekend, but I will try to do this. Keep in mind that I have the independent lift, which is a little different. I would suggest checking the linkage from the three point to make sure that's adjusted close enough to be able to use the turnbuckles on the mower lift arms to fine tune the height.

When you are in the locked up position on the knob, what is your clearance between the uplimit tab on the mower and the frame? When mine came from the dealer, the deck was much too low. After the dealer was unable to fix it, I checked the clearance and had it all correct in about 15 minutes.

 

[thatguy]

Here is a picture of the turnbuckle that I have mention. Is this correct? notice the thread depth.View attachment 328070. I will check to see if the knob hits when mower is fully lifted.

those turnbuckles are used to 'balance' the mower deck (side to side I believe) so it cuts evenly.. It will give you some height adjustment, BUT that is NOT their intended purpose

For proper height adjustment is using the 3pt hitch.. It took a LOT of fiddling (fancy word for tinkering) to get my deck heigh control working correclty using the adjustment knob on the floorboard.

I cut my grass somewhere between 4" and 4.5" - and I am using the knob at highest 'cutting' position. I also finally got the knob to work correctly to hold the deck up in the highest (non-cutting) position..

Brian

 

[Hammsman]

The way to know the 3 point is raising the deck high enough is to be able to spin the height control knob continuously past 360 degrees with NEVER hitting anything to stop it. You will have to lower the levelers from their position shown while adjusting the 3 point or you will damage the deck. There is a stop plate on the deck that will hit the underside of the tractor if it is not adjusted properly and cause the damage.

 

[thatguy]

The way to know the 3 point is raising the deck high enough is to be able to spin the height control knob continuously past 360 degrees with NEVER hitting anything to stop it. You will have to lower the levelers from their position shown while adjusting the 3 point or you will damage the deck. There is a stop plate on the deck that will hit the underside of the tractor if it is not adjusted properly and cause the damage.

There are several posts (with pics from about 1 yr ago) on how to get the height control knob correctly adjusted.. It took me multiple tries to get mine so the knob actually works to hold the MMM up..

I have to put pull the 3pt lever all the way up and hold it a second (almost in an over pressure position) to get my deck high enough to LOCK the deck in the upmost position.. The 'normal' 3pt high lever position is not high enough.

brian

 

[Hammsman]

I'm sure there are minor differences from tractor to tractor but on ours by adjusting the rod from the 3 point to the deck raising mechanism the normal home position of the full up 3 point lever was sufficient to twist the height control knob to the lock up position as well as being able to twist the knob fully in any direction without hitting any obstruction. This enabled us to easily adjust the highest notch down from lock-up position to a level cutting height of three and one half inches. For higher mowing heights we use the 3 point lever adjustable stop locks. We usually mow most the yard at the 3 and one-half inch setting with some at 4 inches.

 

[bbackyard]

Hi Everyone,
I just want to thank you all for your help! I'm going to start working on it this morning. I'm praying that I can get this to work correctly. I just can't afford to keep buying caster wheels due to the height control problems.

 

[bbackyard]

Well after about an hour or so of tinkering. I now have about 2.5 inches of height when the dial knob is at the highest position. I go down one notch and it drops to about one 1 inch. I know I still must be missing something. I was hoping for at least 3 inches height. Plus, I would think there should be better height control than dropping 1.5 inch with one down click of the knob.

A few people mention adjusting the height with the 3pt hitch. I'm not sure if I didn't fully understand them but I have a solid rod that connects from the rear drafting arms to the mower arm fill bars. I do not see any way to adjust the height. Therefore, I guess what they meant was the adjustment that comes with the handle that raises and lowers the 3pt hitch.

Are the mower blades suppose to over lap or not?

Again, I greatly appreciate everyone help!

 

[Hammsman]

We have the 2008 model which has an adjustable link in that rod that makes it easy to lengthen or shorten it to get the proper height. I have read on here that some model don't have the link and is solid. It might be available from your dealer as I know a lot of owners have had this issue with the deck. Even if you get the adjustable rod or have someone cut the one you have and thread it for the adjustable link when you have it set properly it will easy to have a cutting height of 3 and one-half inches on the first notch down from the locked-up notch with the big drop of about an inch on the next notch down. At least then you will be able to use the 3 point lever stop lock for somewhere in between higher or lower from the lock-up notch.

 

[KennyG]

Since I have the independent lift, my situation isn't directly applicable, but my results are very similar to Hammsman. Note that with the independent lift, the only adjustment is the turnbuckles on the mower lift arms. The lift cylinder has no length adjustments. My blades are about 5 inches high in the "lock up" position, 3-1/2" at the first notch and 2-1/2" at the second notch ("H") position, down to about 1-1/2" at the "M" position. At the "L" setting, the deck sits on the floor.

My conclusion is that the system is functional but far from optimum. I would like to be able to linearly set it at heights every 1/2" all the way up to about 6" high. There is no reason the system could not have been designed this way, but it wasn't. That said, it still works fine for me.

It sounds like you need the adjustable rod. Did you ever check the clearance between the frame and uplimit stop at the lock up position? That will tell you really quickly if you need more adjustment to the 3 point.

The blades do not "overlap" so they will not touch. That is why the center blade is offset from the other two. If you could look through the deck from the front, you would see a slight "overlap" in the 2-D view of the blades. Blades can't actually overlap unless they have timing belts, which almost none do.