How would you repair this driveway?

[/pine]

Based on the picture...just about any grading implement would do the job...but it must be done with the side link adjusted to put some tilt on the blade or whatever...

Personally I would pitch the entire lane to the ditch on the right looking at the pic...IMO a rear blade would do the job fastest, starting by recovering as much gravel from the ditch shoulder as possible...

A box blade or a landscape rake would also be viable options...I have never used a LPGS so I can't comment on their use but if they can be tilted by adjusting a side link it might even be the best option?

Again, the key to keeping a smooth lane is preventing the runoff from running down the grades (hills) and eroding ruts as is evident in the pic...

 

[MacLawn]

So I went in to Tractor Supply and told them I wanted to buy one of those "leveler thingamajigs" but they just looked at me like I was nuts!

Any additional specifics or perhaps a pic would be appreciated!

I know. People are always looking at me like I ain't right. :confused2:

I'm away from it now and don't have a picture of it on my iPad. I'll see if I can find one online. Old boy here in Mississippi way out in woods made mine for $500! I love it!

 

[MacLawn]

Kind of like this, very simple:

 

[oosik]

Like handtools said - I think the leveler thingamajig = Land Plane Grading Scraper(LPGS). The LPGS will fill and level out the washout gully - start at the bottom of the driveway and pull material up and out as you move up the driveway. Your material is still there - its at the bottom of the hill or in the driveway ditches.

The LPGS is NOT the tool to do any type of work on the driveway ditches nor is it the tool to create a crown in the driveway. A heavy duty rear blade will "do" the ditches and will "create" crown on the driveway.

People become upset when they go up/down their driveway many, many, many times with their new LPGS and it DOES NOT create a crown. Simply not the tool for that.

LPGS is a VERY EASY tool to learn to use and use well. Rear blade has a loooong learning curve - but is the main tool for driveway repair and maintenance. The rear blade can actually create problems on gravel driveways because of the short wheelbase of the tractor and the close attachment of the rear blade.

Its up to jymbee - buy a LPGS and smooth out the driveway. Buy a heavy duty rear blade - start learning how to use it - smooth out the driveway - reestablish the crown - clean out the driveway ditches. Along with the rear blade - I would recommend a hydraulic top link. It is of great help in learning how to use a rear blade.

 

[techman]

One observation I have had. I have 2 driveways. One is basically level, used primarily and now paved. My "rear" driveway has a grade and is not paved. Some years before I paved the main drive, we put 500 tom of 2b on both drives. Over time the rear drive has developed ruts like yours. About 8 years ago I put a several inch thick layer of screenings on the rear drive after regrading it level. Since I put the screenings down there has been no rutting. The screenings pack hard and solid, almost as hard as macadam. Only downside is the cost of screenings, and you need to pack it down after application.

paul

 

[jymbee]

Nice. Does the backhoe come off easily enough?

Yep, in fact it's off now as I typically remove it come winter when I occasionally need it to push aside some big snow drifts. Lots of those this winter unfortunately. Now getting the backhoe back ON can be a major PITA, but that's a story for another time.

You're going to want use rear implements on the 3-pt hitch. People will recommend a "land-plane" leveler, but you can also get the job done with a scraper blade and/or box blade. The box blade with scarifiers (shanks) will rip it all up, requiring re-compaction. I usually get good results with my simple rear scraper blade; just set it up so you pull material hard towards the road center and make enough passes until you have a big sharp crown built up. Then flip the blade around, level/straighten it out, and drag it back out smooth. Followed by compaction by just driving on it a lot.

Yeah, it seems being able to tear it up a bit and at the same time create more of a crown would be the way to go. Whatever I end up doing it's clear I would need to rent a vibratory roller like the original contractor used. Last summer I tried just filling in the ruts and running over that to compact. Big mistake as with the first heavy rain it washed right out.

Years ago my Dad used to create something like "speed bumps" at various points to divert water on the steeper portions. Perhaps something like that in combination with a steeper crown might be a good idea. Make the darned UPS drive slow down at the same time! :thumbsup:

 

[jymbee]

Kind of like this, very simple:

Thanks!

 

[jymbee]

One observation I have had. I have 2 driveways. One is basically level, used primarily and now paved. My "rear" driveway has a grade and is not paved. Some years before I paved the main drive, we put 500 tom of 2b on both drives. Over time the rear drive has developed ruts like yours. About 8 years ago I put a several inch thick layer of screenings on the rear drive after regrading it level. Since I put the screenings down there has been no rutting. The screenings pack hard and solid, almost as hard as macadam. Only downside is the cost of screenings, and you need to pack it down after application.

paul

Not sure exactly what you're referring to re. "screenings"?

Used to be dirt roads (gravel) around here years ago. Going from A to B over the hill could leave your vehicle caked with dust and houses along the way similarly dusty. These days they use a combination of stone & oil which works well. I remember back when they first started redoing the roads with that material that it seemed like us country folk had finally arrived.

 

[LouNY]

Your speed bumps if set at an angle to divert the water will work.
My driveway is too steep to try and crown and if you put enough side slope on a driveway to shed water you will spin off it in the winter.
I put small trenches in mine.
View attachment IMG_20171009_132145410.jpg
This is a box blade shank with a cultivator shoe welded on it mounted on a SSQA plate.
I put diagonal cuts in going down the driveway to catch and divert the water, they do have to be redone frequently.
With a back blade you could tilt and angle to clean out your ditches,
then angle and pull to move your material back into the driveway,
after you get it roughed in, turn the blade 180 and leave it angled
and pull it (backwards) to slick up and smooth your driveway.
With the moldboard and cutting edge in a convex mode it will not dig in,
it will slid over and level and smooth.
Luck

 

[Ortimber]

Yep, in fact it's off now as I typically remove it come winter when I occasionally need it to push aside some big snow drifts. Lots of those this winter unfortunately. Now getting the backhoe back ON can be a major PITA, but that's a story for another time.



Yeah, it seems being able to tear it up a bit and at the same time create more of a crown would be the way to go. Whatever I end up doing it's clear I would need to rent a vibratory roller like the original contractor used. Last summer I tried just filling in the ruts and running over that to compact. Big mistake as with the first heavy rain it washed right out.

Years ago my Dad used to create something like "speed bumps" at various points to divert water on the steeper portions. Perhaps something like that in combination with a steeper crown might be a good idea. Make the darned UPS drive slow down at the same time! :thumbsup:

The angled speed bumps, or water bars, are very common on steep roads in my neck of the woods. They work well.