How would you repair this driveway?

   / How would you repair this driveway? #41  
You'd only need 1/2" or so protruding from the surface to make an effective water-directing weir. I've often thought of burying a simple pressure-treated "T" at the upper end of our nearly identical slope. With the stem "up" about 1/2". But then a lot of our slope has bedrock right under the surface, and the weir would essentially make grading impossible (except for manually w/shovel/rake).
 
   / How would you repair this driveway? #42  
Don't see them much anymore but open top (wood) culverts used to be a common sight around here on gravel mountain roads...

'C' channels made from full RS 2X white oak with some blocking at the top to keep them from folding in...usually 4"-6" wide set pitched at an angle they both diverted and collected runoff and emptied into the low side ditch...
 
   / How would you repair this driveway? #44  
jymbee said:
That's a good point about the downside of a bump. The driveway is pretty steep at some points. And thinking about it more I realized that's also what my father used to do, create some mini lateral ditches, not bumps as I mentioned earlier.

Out of curiosity I called my contactor and to just grade (they have a full sized road grader) and compact the drive they figured a half day and $1,250. Well ok... that would seem more than enough reason to consider the do-it-yourself route it seems.

Given all the input from folks here with experience on the different options I'm leaning toward the "EA 6 Way Deluxe Scrape Blade for Compact Tractors with 25-50 HP V2.0"


One of the big advantages going this route would be the ability to use it for snow as well. Our "little" JD 748 diesel with plow does a great job and I've used that for years but given it's only a 48" blade with only hydraulic adjustments for left/right, up/down, it does have a downside. One of biggest pain is something that anybody that plows snow has to deal with-- that wet heavy snow on top of wet, thawed out ground. Some of the plow guys around here really tear things up with those kinds of conditions.

My thinking is not only would this kind of blade be faster, but pulling a blade would be less destructive than pushing. Even turning it around 180 degrees and angling it seems like it would work as an option as well. But those are just my guesses not having used one of these things.
Click to expand...

That is EXACTLY the blade I ordered from ETA two weeks ago, and what I was suggesting in my post#31.
My new ETA 6 Way Deluxe Value Scrape Blade will be the 4th rear blade (3 other mfg.) I have owned over the years.
The fully hydraulic blades certainly are the best, but are WAY more expensive. Ted does an excellent job describing the functions of the ETA Value Scrape Blade, in his video.
In my opinion, this blade is quite likely the best value in the marketplace.
I bought it!
 
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