How would you repair this driveway?

[JRobyn]

Sometimes called a weir....

 

[Larry Caldwell]

So I went in to Tractor Supply and told them I wanted to buy one of those "leveler thingamajigs" but they just looked at me like I was nuts!

Any additional specifics or perhaps a pic would be appreciated!

Pull type road grader. There are probably a few dozen sitting around your county that get used once a year.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/208040-tractor-drawn-road-grader.html

 

[Ford850]

I think you need a back blade or a box blade more than a land plane. You need to pull the gravel back up the drive where it started, and reshape the surface. I use a back blade with wings that acts as a moderate box blade, for my washed out drive. I can pull the gravel back up the hill then angle and tilt the blade to finish it off with a crown.

 

[fried1765]

Like handtools said - I think the leveler thingamajig = Land Plane Grading Scraper(LPGS). The LPGS will fill and level out the washout gully - start at the bottom of the driveway and pull material up and out as you move up the driveway. Your material is still there - its at the bottom of the hill or in the driveway ditches.

The LPGS is NOT the tool to do any type of work on the driveway ditches nor is it the tool to create a crown in the driveway. A heavy duty rear blade will "do" the ditches and will "create" crown on the driveway.

People become upset when they go up/down their driveway many, many, many times with their new LPGS and it DOES NOT create a crown. Simply not the tool for that.

LPGS is a VERY EASY tool to learn to use and use well. Rear blade has a loooong learning curve - but is the main tool for driveway repair and maintenance. The rear blade can actually create problems on gravel driveways because of the short wheelbase of the tractor and the close attachment of the rear blade.

Its up to jymbee - buy a LPGS and smooth out the driveway. Buy a heavy duty rear blade - start learning how to use it - smooth out the driveway - reestablish the crown - clean out the driveway ditches. Along with the rear blade - I would recommend a hydraulic top link. It is of great help in learning how to use a rear blade.

A rear blade is the PROPER tool to maintain that driveway!
Everything Attachments is selling what they call their Deluxe Value Blade which could be just perfect for the OP's driveway.
They make the blade in 5', 6' and 7' lengths.
It is rated for up to 50HP, but looking at their videos on the blade, it looks plenty beefy enough for a 52HP Massey.
I think their 7' Deluxe Value Blade would be the most cost effective solution, at $856 incl. shipping.
They have two excellent videos on their website for the "Deluxe Value Scrape Blade".

I ordered the 6' version just 2 weeks ago, but have not received it yet.

 

[techman]

Not sure exactly what you're referring to re. "screenings"?

Screenings come from the rock processing guys and are available (in our area) from any supplier/hauler. It is the sand-like grade of (granite) rock that collects under the classifier screens. It is quite fine and packs to a nearly solid surface.

paul

 

[jymbee]

A rear blade is the PROPER tool to maintain that driveway!
Everything Attachments is selling what they call their Deluxe Value Blade which could be just perfect for the OP's driveway.
They make the blade in 5', 6' and 7' lengths.
It is rated for up to 50HP, but looking at their videos on the blade, it looks plenty beefy enough for a 52HP Massey.
I think their 7' Deluxe Value Blade would be the most cost effective solution, at $856 incl. shipping.
They have two excellent videos on their website for the "Deluxe Value Scrape Blade".

I ordered the 6' version just 2 weeks ago, but have not received it yet.

I wonder how that might compare with this from TS?
CountyLine Grader Blade, 6 ft. at Tractor Supply Co.

 

[jymbee]

Screenings come from the rock processing guys and are available (in our area) from any supplier/hauler. It is the sand-like grade of (granite) rock that collects under the classifier screens. It is quite fine and packs to a nearly solid surface.

paul

Is this the material your describing? I could use a semi load of that stuff if I thought it would work better than the gravel we have now. Gravel around here has a lot of rather fine silt which comes to the surface over time and creates lots of dust. Also washes out too easily.

Stone Dust | #1 | NJ, NY, NYC, PA

 

[oosik]

REAR BLADES - just a bit of info here. For the last thirty or so years I've been using a 72" rear blade(don't remember brand or weight) - then a Land Pride RB3596 @ 560 pounds and, of course, 96" wide. Both blades were excellent for winter snow removal on my mile long gravel driveway, around my mail box and to clear my yard. Both blades were as "**** on bacon" when it came to summer maintenance. My "gravel" driveway is - on top - a combination of crushed granite, fines, sand and volcanic ash. Its only rival - in the summer - is concrete. The first two rear blades were simply too light to "penetrate" the driveway when it "set up" in the summer.

Two years ago I decided that if I was ever going to do maintenance in the dead of summer - not in the spring or fall when the drive is wet - I needed a REAL rear blade with some beef. I bought a Rhino 950 @ 1050 pounds and 96" wide. It was CONSIDERABLY more expensive that either of the previous blades but now I can truly penetrate the driveway surface even after it has set up in the dead of summer.

Pothole maintenance can be done in the summer - a much more appropriate time. I have the weight and reach to really clean out the driveway ditches. At the same time as I purchased the new Rhino - I also purchased a FitRite hydraulic top link. This unit is a true God-send for ground contact implements - but that's another story.

Anyhow - the point being - be certain to purchase a rear blade that is heavy enough to really do the job you want to do - on your driveway. When it comes to rear blades - weight is your friend.

 

[MacLawn]

Ok, I didn't think I had to be so specific about making a crown using maybe a rear blade angled way up. That's what I do with mine, then go over it with the thingamajig:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...48-how-would-you-repair-driveway-img_1575-jpg

Use rear blade to clean out ditches and make them deeper, then use above whatchamacallit to just drag over driveway. It will NOT take the crown away if you do it right. I reckon I'm assuming a bit too much. I figured us boys here had a tiny bit of skill anyway. Hey, just get the thing I'm talking about and Do It®.

 

[techman]

Is this the material your describing? I could use a semi load of that stuff if I thought it would work better than the gravel we have now. Gravel around here has a lot of rather fine silt which comes to the surface over time and creates lots of dust. Also washes out too easily.

Stone Dust | #1 | NJ, NY, NYC, PA

looks like the same