Hydraulic winch and other general PT usability questions

[m5040]

How about a tree shear to just cut them off at ground level? We don't have anything like that our east.

 

[2manyrocks]

If it were a feller/buncher machine that could absolutely control the tree trunk once it was severed, that would be ideal for not spreading the thorns in theory. But I doubt anyone with that kind of machine would come here just to cut these few trees.

On the other hand, I think I have enough other dozer work that I could get them knocked down and pushed into a pile as part of some other work I want done.

Or I could cut them down with a chainsaw, whack off the thorns with a bush blade and then make fence posts out of the trunks.

I can think of more to do than I can get done.

 

[MossRoad]

Yeah, when you drop those trees, the thorns can be left behind and cause havoc on tires for years to come.

Here's some more interesting reading on honey locust...

From here:

Forest Resources Center & Arboretum - Honey Locust

"Honey Locust belongs to the Fabaceae (the bean or pea family). It ranges from central Pennsylvania south along the Appalachians to Alabama and west to Texas and the Central U.S. Its large pods turn brown in the fall and often persist into winter. The pods are sweet and eaten by cattle, hogs, and wildlife - thus the name "honey" or "sweet." The rattling of the seeds in the dry pods is said to resemble the singing of locusts - thus the second part of the common name.

​

The very hard thorns have been used for a variety of purposes, including use as nails, for carding wool, and as pins for closing sacks. The durable wood has been used for railroad ties, fence posts, and pallets. A number of thornless varieties have been developed for shade and ornamental use."

 

[2manyrocks]

You might consider these, they also make battery powered units. 2k or less in cost.

Thank you for suggesting the Portable Winch and to everyone else who shared their experience.

As an update where this project stands, I was able to find the PCW4000 used and initially bought a double sleeve pulley and a single sleeve pulley direct from PCW along with their 1/2 inch rope and carabiners.

Had to wait until winter to work on the project so the leaves would drop off, and I wouldn't run into any snakes.

During January and February, I was able to fell 70+ trees of varying sizes using the winch to make sure they fell where I wanted them to fall. This was really important in the beginning phase where there was limited room to fell the trees. Quite a few had backward leans that would have fallen the other way if not for the winch.

The ability to place the winch on another tree as an anchor was essential because there wasn't a good way to get a tractor in the area to work.

One thing I discovered was that the winch really seemed to do better using at least a 3:1 pulley setup, but 4:1 worked better although slower in speed. I ended up buying a second double sleeve pulley.

If someone were going to buy one of the PCW winches, I'd suggest getting two double sleeve pulleys and one single to achieve a 4:1 with a redirect. I also liked the progress capture on the PCW4000 because I could easily start a pull and lock the process so I could make progressive cuts deeper into the tree.

I also found myself using a 20' wire cable on the crotch of some trees because of the strength of the wire cable and it being more resistant to damage than the pulling rope. I also found that I could place the cable high enough in a tree for leverage by placing it with an extendable boat hook. In some instances, I was able to use a throw bag.

Still have more trees to go, the worse of which will be the honey locust, and haven't even really started cleaning up the downed logs. I did have to stack tree limbs as I went along in order to keep the work area clear. Otherwise, the rope tends to get snagged on even small tree limbs.

The potential drawback for me was the combined weight was a bit much for me to carry. I transported the winch in a case to prevent the aluminum capstan from getting dinged up. Pulleys, straps, etc. went into a large tool bag. I tried to use a two wheel cart as much as I could to move them in the trail area where I was working. I'm still a rookie when it comes to winding and unwinding the rope.

 

[ponytug]

You need your own power wheelbarrow, aka a Power-Trac!

Thanks for the update.

All the best,

Peter

 

[SpringHollow]

I would recommend using a strap around the tree instead of a cable.

A rope bag or large container is the best way to handle the rope - just stuff it in and pull out as you need it. It works extremely well. I have been doing it for years without any tangles etc.

Ken

 

[2manyrocks]

It would be very helpful to be able to move these logs with a grapple. I hesitate to take my L2501 with R1 tires into this area because of the honey locust thorns and because the rear tires are loaded with beet juice. The 1445 with the loader tires would be an improvement.

I have used a strap in a couple of situations where I was concerned that the cable might slide out of position on the tree trunk and change the point of leverage. I've used the wire cable more in situations where I could slide it through a V in the trunk and then back around the trunk. I've also used a wire choker cable, but I probably should have bought a longer one for this work.

edit: Perhaps I should try to explain better. The strap is good for grabbing and holding the trunk, but I have trouble pushing it up the tree trunks with the boat hook on trees like hackberries that have a rough surface or trees that have thick vines. The wire choker cable is easier to push past these obstacles. If the tree has a stout crotch/notch, sometimes it's easier to thread the regular cable through the crotch and then pull it around the tree.

However, I am still learning and appreciate all tips.

 

[MossRoad]

I would recommend using a strap around the tree instead of a cable.

A rope bag or large container is the best way to handle the rope - just stuff it in and pull out as you need it. It works extremely well. I have been doing it for years without any tangles etc.

Ken

I was introduced to rope bags as throw bags when I was a lifeguard on a white water course. Amazing how you can just stuff rope in a sack and then it just peels out with zero knots. I don't see why it wouldn't work in a forestry setting. Sounds like a great idea.

 

[2manyrocks]

The 80 foot rope that came from blue ox winds up okay, but I'm not winding the 150' one from PWC correctly. Does it have to be a bag or would a 5 gallon bucket work?

 

[MossRoad]

I've never used a bucket. I've made my own bags out of old blue jean legs. But that's only a 75' rope for throwing rescues. I carry it on my sled when I go ice fishing in case someone else gets in trouble.