JD 110 backhoe buckets

[CurlyDave]

I will. I'm thinking it will solve some issues I've had with the hoe power to tractor weight ratio. Kinda like when you try to jump from a surface that wants to spring away from you...haha. I'm hoping it will completely change the feel of the back hoe. Also sick of the "tipsy" feeling when on a slope. Probably just me but I have almost tipped over carrying a heavy load low to the ground. Like 10" off the ground low. Dropped it quick! But I was only on about a 20 degree slope. I'll put 2 gallons of antifreeze (concentrate) in each rear tire and fill with water to top dead center of valve stem and 1 gallon in each front tire. Should make it a whole new tractor. I've put it off for too long thinking my rims would rust but not really worried about that! I need some weight. Tired of gettin' hoe tossed!! Plus should improve the traction tremendously.

When I bought my machine, I asked the dealer about loading the tires, and he was 100% against it.

1. You are supposed to be able to move the machine around with the hoe. It is a normal part of the operation of the machine, and even semi-advanced operators rapidly come to rely on this for many kinds of set-up. If you load the rear tires, they become too heavy for this.

2. A 20 degree slope is pretty steep, actually very steep. I would bail out long before that. Try swinging the hoe to the uphill side and then extending it as far as you can. Keep it low.

 

[PBettis]

I really don't do enough backhoe work anymore to worry about moving the machine with the hoe, funny as that sounds. Not too sure the hoe wouldn't keep slinging the tractor around regardless of the extra weight. Now the creep to reposition lever I wouldn't want to do without! Yeah I know there's 2 sides to ballasting the tires but most tractors are underweight to begin with in alot of applications. I don't know...i think I'm gonna try it and see how the machine feels. It's not a necessity for 90% of what i do around my farm but extra traction and stability is a good thing i suppose. Gonna keep trying to decide on it. Really don't do that much ground engagement other than a rollover and maybe all purpose plow or pulverizer. Tractor does fine with it. Undecided...

 

[ugo4it]

I am not saying to or not to ballast. The op manual has a caution on adding ballast when the backhoe is on. This is copied from the op manual.
Ballasting Machine
CAUTION: Avoid injury! Ballasted machine may become unstable when attachment is raised. Always drive slowly over uneven ground and when turning with raised attachment.

IMPORTANT: Avoid damage! Damage to tires and drive train will occur if:
• Ballast is added when the backhoe is installed.
• Ballast is added to the front of this machine or the front tires.
Remove ballast from machine when no longer needed to extend drive train life and avoid excessive soil compaction and rolling resistance.

Ballasting this machine should not be done with backhoe installed. It is recommended that if ballast is needed, a ballast box totalling 567 kg (1250 lb), or a 567 kg (1250 lb) box scraper be mounted to the 3-point hitch.
Using Optional Rear Ballast Box
IMPORTANT: Avoid damage! Do not overload tires. Do not exceed tire maximum inflation pressure or maximum load capacity.

The rear ballast box is used for carrying ballast on the 3-point hitch. The ballast box may be weighted up to 567 kg (1250 lb).
Tire Capacities
IMPORTANT: Avoid damage! Do not overload tires. Do not exceed tire maximum inflation pressure or maximum load capacity listed on tire side wall.
If required ballast will exceed tire load capacity, reduce load.

Verify maximum tire inflation pressure and maximum load information embossed into the tire side wall.

 

[PBettis]

So that answers that! I don't need ballast that bad. Thanks man!! I didn't think to read my manual about that.......duh!!! Face meet Palm!!! Man what a great forum!!

 

[jenkinsph]

So that answers that! I don't need ballast that bad. Thanks man!! I didn't think to read my manual about that.......duh!!! Face meet Palm!!! Man what a great forum!!

Don't take this the wrong way but seat time will resolve most of the problems you are encountering with using the hoe on your 110. Any good backhoe large or small should be able to raise and move the tractor around (tail wagging the dog). I find that running my 110 that 1500 to 1800 rpms' is sufficient for most all backhoe jobs. Rarely do I run faster than that when using the fel either as it is hard to control the bucket, at high rpms' just a light touch on the fel boom will pop the wheels off the ground. If I have to transport material a longer distance is where the extra speed and power is useful.

 

[ultrarunner]

Don't take this the wrong way but seat time will resolve most of the problems you are encountering with using the hoe on your 110. Any good backhoe large or small should be able to raise and move the tractor around (tail wagging the dog). I find that running my 110 that 1500 to 1800 rpms' is sufficient for most all backhoe jobs. Rarely do I run faster than that when using the fel either as it is hard to control the bucket, at high rpms' just a light touch on the fel boom will pop the wheels off the ground. If I have to transport material a longer distance is where the extra speed and power is ueful.

Good advice... coming from my Kubota BX where I would often have to really work the hoe in my hard ground often find it just wouldn't budge... the 110 is a new world.

 

[CurlyDave]

Don't take this the wrong way but seat time will resolve most of the problems you are encountering with using the hoe on your 110. Any good backhoe large or small should be able to raise and move the tractor around (tail wagging the dog). I find that running my 110 that 1500 to 1800 rpms' is sufficient for most all backhoe jobs. Rarely do I run faster than that when using the fel either as it is hard to control the bucket, at high rpms' just a light touch on the fel boom will pop the wheels off the ground. If I have to transport material a longer distance is where the extra speed and power is useful.

I completely agree, although for many jobs I will reduce engine speed to the 1200 rpm range for hoe work. If I am anywhere near a building or a burried line, a slow deliberate motion of the backhoe is vastly superior to fast & jerky. You can still get the same force, you just get it more slowly.

 

[jenkinsph]

I completely agree, although for many jobs I will reduce engine speed to the 1200 rpm range for hoe work. If I am anywhere near a building or a burried line, a slow deliberate motion of the backhoe is vastly superior to fast & jerky. You can still get the same force, you just get it more slowly.

I just finished a job digging between a patio slab and a small closet for a new electric line for one of my cutomers. Had to dig in the space that was about 20 inches wide with a 12" bucket, doesn't leave much room for error. Tractor was idling for that part of the job.

 

[Carl Bert]

I just finished a job digging between a patio slab and a small closet for a new electric line for one of my cutomers. Had to dig in the space that was about 20 inches wide with a 12" bucket, doesn't leave much room for error. Tractor was idling for that part of the job.

I don't have a lot of experience with different machines, but I had spent a good amount of hours on a terramite about a year ago, and the backhoe was extremely jerky, with even the slightest touch of the control lever. I wouldn't want to use a machine like that in a confined space. My Kubota B26 on the other hand, has super smooth controls, no matter what RPMs I'm running it at. I can get as close as I want to whatever, with no worries at all.

I recently did a foundation waterproofing and footing drain job, with zero accidental damage. If I was using the Terramite, I would have been really nervous digging around the sliding glass basement doors and windows. I probably would have wound up doing a good part of the job by hand.

I am a John Deere fan for as long as I can remember, but I'll tell ya, I can't complain about my Kubota.

 

[RitchElbe]

Check local Scrap and metal yards.. I have found several buckets over the years..highest I paid was $35. This due to NC rules saying they can only sell it for what they paid for it...18cents a pound. The largest was 18" with teeth