JD 4600 w/460 loader bucket tilt problem

[oldnslo]

Would bad piston seals allow one cylinder to operate independent of the other one if connected in parallel?

Would bucket stay curled back with load on it with a bad piston seal?

 

[Harry in Ky]

I think it's time to disassemble the left cylinder. To me that's the obvious next step here. Something between the rod and the piston needs attention.

 

[Hound Dog]

I thought most of these problems took awhile and not suddenly as I had just dumped a large bale, but that could be the thing that popped a seal. I'm heading out to check for crimped lines somewhere, just in case. Is replacing cylinder seals something I can do or find someone that can do it? Special tools needed?
(no crimped lines found)

Found this video and contacted a friend that works in a parts store with a customer that rebuilds cylinders. I think I'll go that way.

 

[Hound Dog]

I think it's time to disassemble the left cylinder. To me that's the obvious next step here. Something between the rod and the piston needs attention.

I removed both cylinders. I believe the left cylinder shaft has become loose from the piston. I have a neighbor that used to work for JD and he agreed to replace the seals. I hope the threaded end of the shaft is still good.
And of course, my cylinder is different from the one in the how-to YouTube video but I found the part number and diagram for my cylinder.

 

[beenthere]

This link to jd parts fit with your cylinder ?

https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/80717/referrer/navigation/pgId/14390972

See that there is a seal kit available for repair. The ring (wire lock) key #11 may present a challenge removing it. Have heard that anyway.

 

[Hound Dog]

Yup, that's the cylinder and that's why I'm having someone else do it. Couldn't find a U-tube video showing that cylinder either.

 

[Harry in Ky]

You don't know the lock ring is a problem unless you try. If you can get it apart with the barrel still in place you can save some time and $$ doing it yourself. It's not that hard. Look in the hole on side for the end of the lock ring. If it's right there and you can move it a little by turning the head assembly, then why not try and lift it out, roll the head until the wire comes free and go from there?

 

[Hound Dog]

Not sure what you mean. I do know the shaft of the problem cylinder won't go into the cylinder as far as the other one after they both were removed..
I've rebuilt motorcycle forks and watched a u-tube video on rebuilding these cylinders and I know my limits so will have someone else to do these. I really do appreciate all the help from these forums and they are a wealth of information.

 

[Harry in Ky]

Again, if you can turn the cylinder head (some call it a gland) with a pipe wrench or large channel locks, you should see the lock ring move in the small window. USUALLY the end of the ring is right in the window, but not always. Once the end is in view, reach in with a pick or some small sharp tool and raise the end up so turning the head causes the end to come out of the window. Then continue turning in that direction. This should bring the entire ring out and allow you to remove it. Once done the head, rod, piston, and all should be free to come out of the barrel. Sometimes it takes a few good slams but it should all come out. Some sort of problem exists between the rod end and the piston, obviously, but it still has to come apart to find out just what it is.

Typically I do this without removing the barrel from the implement. Makes it much more stable and easier to work with. Just remove the hoses so they don't restrict movement of the internal parts.

 

[beenthere]

There are several YouTube videos showing JD cylinder repair, but I failed to find one I've viewed before that shows the lock ring needing to be removed.
This one linked here is one from a JD 430 FEL and may be close to what the OP has to work with.

I watched several videos that were not well done, and skipped important steps. All seemed to mention the "tool" that is a plastic ring in the kit used to fill the groove of the lock ring and provide a "ramp" to remove the rod.
Good luck.
Hope you take pics and report how the job goes for you. Appears this wire lock is on the earlier 460 FEL under s/n 03117. After that s/n there is a different setup.

https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/80717/referrer/navigation/pgId/14519694