John Deere LA 135 won't stay running

[pdmarch]

JD LA 135 LAWN TRACTOR Starts good with full choke when cold. When it is warm you need to choke it to start. Then it runs good. what can i check?

 

[beenthere]

Sounds like a fuel issue, so give some thought to what the history of the fuel supply has been (fresh or not), and when fuel filters (looks like two) were last changed out. Think if maybe your carb needs cleaning or a new carb kit.

:welcome: to TBN

 

[DrBill]

Beenthere is right.. Usually when extra choke is needed more than usual it points to a fuel starved situation. This can be old fuel,, trash in carb, a little water somewhere..

I usually go to the carburator first and see what I find.. Based on that I decide if I need to do more like drain the tank, etc..

 

[pdmarch]

Beenthere is right.. Usually when extra choke is needed more than usual it points to a fuel starved situation. This can be old fuel,, trash in carb, a little water somewhere..

I usually go to the carburator first and see what I find.. Based on that I decide if I need to do more like drain the tank, etc..

thanks I will check those things.

 

[pdmarch]

Can some one tell me what the wire connector on the float bowl is for? Briggs eng.

 

[beenthere]

I suspect that is a fuel shutoff solenoid on that carb. Don't have the service manual but looking at jdparts.com (which you can do as well), it shows a solenoid on the carb.

 

[Bill56]

check the fuel cap vent, the earlier L series were known for that problem

YES - This was my problem. Easy way to check is press down on the gas cap on top of plastic tank. If you don't hear air hissing out the vent hole in the cap, it is clogged. This causes a vacuum in the tank, and fuel won't feed fast enough. Remove the rubber seal in the cap, clean everything good and re-assemble.

 

[DJP]

HI: Everyone, after reading your post, it appear I am having the same problem. KEEPING MY JOHN DEER RUNNING. I have an older John Deer L120 automatic. For the past several months I have not been able to keep it running after it starts. I have cut grass two of three times with it this pass summer. But each time I get it out to use, I have the same problem getting it to star and keep running. So far I have taken apart the CARB, let the whole CARB, Float bowl soap in gas for three to four days. I think my problem is with the solenoid switch that housed(connected) at he bottom of the CARB. I am not sure if it is working of if the wire connection that connects to it has a good connection. The wire ends that fits in the end piece of the wire connection that slaps into the solenoid came loose, and I am not sure I have put it back together wit a good connection fit. T he other end of the solenoid wire connection goes to the motor, and I cannot see where it connect to the motor, because it goes between and behind the front of the motor attached parts. I cannot not see if the end of the solenoid connection wire has come loose. Two question 1. What do this solenoid piece on the bottom of the Carb do, its function???? 2. IF the solenoid is not working, or have a bad connection on either end of the solenoid connection wire, will this cause my John Deer to not keep running. So far each time I start it, it appear to only run from the amount of gas I manually pour down in the CARB and cuts off. This old John Deer runs GOOD when it is running. Can anyone tell me how to test/check The short solenoid switch to confirm that it is good, and to test/check to see if I may have a bad/loose solenoid wire connector, which may be stopping the solenoid from doing its job. How can I test both?????? JOHN DEER L-120--20 HP --BRIG. & Stratton--48 inch cut...S/n>>4067770128B1>>>>>30610Yg00392>>>>GXL120A067917

 

[Richard001]

You would better off starting you own thread as you have a different tractor than the original poster.

The solenoid is a fuel shut-off. The purpose is to eliminate the "back-fire" that happens sometimes when you shut the engine off when it is hot. The solenoid closes a few moments before the engine shuts off, thus burning up any fuel in the intake.

A good way to test the solenoid is to remove it from the carb, be careful, fuel may come out of the carb so don't do this when the engine is hot.

After removing the solenoid, use a couple of jumper wires to test it. Connect the body of the solenoid to the negative side of the battery and then touch the positive jumper to the terminal on the solenoid. The solenoid plunger should move into the body a few ten's of an inch.

If no movement, try moving the plunger by hand. It should move into the body when you push on it. If you can move the plunger my hand, but it does not move when applying voltage, then the solenoid is bad. The solenoid shuts off the fuel to the engine. It will not run if the solenoid is bad.

Two things you can do. One is to buy a new solenoid, which are not cheap. Two, you can just cut off the tip of the plunger and then put it back in the carb.

Now if you find that the solenoid is good, then you need to start looking at the wiring.

Richard

 

[tomplum]

It is probably the old style bowl on this . If the solenoid comes straight out of the bottom, you have to remove the bowl to remove the solenoid. Off the side, then you can unscrew it. Alternatively, cycling the ignition key, you should hear or feel a click from the solenoid. 12 volts on one wire and ground on the other. Have you verified that the choke is closing? Does the fuel pump deliver fuel?