L4350dt
- Thread starter Bigk56
- Start date
rbargeron
Elite Member
Ken,
Couple questions - is your shuttle hydraulic or is it mechanical? Do you have the "Ever Clutch"?
The L4350 was made with three different clutch setups depending on which transmission options were ordered.
1) tractors with mechanical shuttle have a two-stage dry plate clutch. Push clutch pedal part way to disengage drive wheels, push further to disengage pto.
2) tractors with hydraulic shuttle but dry clutch have a single stage clutch that disengages drive wheels and pto at the same time.
3) tractors with hydraulic shuttle and the wet type "ever clutch" had a dry plate clutch that just controls the pto. These have a lever beside the seat for engaging/disengaging the pto.
Which setup do you have? BTW, there would be decals on the hood for "hydraulic shuttle" and/or "EC" if it has them.
If its 2) or 3) the pto clutch linkage just needs adjusting so it fully disengages.
If it's 1) mech shuttle, then the problem may be that the travel clutch is worn. As the pedal linkage is adjusted to compensate for travel clutch wear, the pto clutch doesn't get pushed far enough to fully disengage. Eventually you'll have to engage the pto before starting the tractor. Common on two-stage clutches as they get older. The fix is a new travel clutch disk - but you can live with it quite a while.
Couple questions - is your shuttle hydraulic or is it mechanical? Do you have the "Ever Clutch"?
The L4350 was made with three different clutch setups depending on which transmission options were ordered.
1) tractors with mechanical shuttle have a two-stage dry plate clutch. Push clutch pedal part way to disengage drive wheels, push further to disengage pto.
2) tractors with hydraulic shuttle but dry clutch have a single stage clutch that disengages drive wheels and pto at the same time.
3) tractors with hydraulic shuttle and the wet type "ever clutch" had a dry plate clutch that just controls the pto. These have a lever beside the seat for engaging/disengaging the pto.
Which setup do you have? BTW, there would be decals on the hood for "hydraulic shuttle" and/or "EC" if it has them.
If its 2) or 3) the pto clutch linkage just needs adjusting so it fully disengages.
If it's 1) mech shuttle, then the problem may be that the travel clutch is worn. As the pedal linkage is adjusted to compensate for travel clutch wear, the pto clutch doesn't get pushed far enough to fully disengage. Eventually you'll have to engage the pto before starting the tractor. Common on two-stage clutches as they get older. The fix is a new travel clutch disk - but you can live with it quite a while.
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Yes it is the mech shuttle with the dry clutch. Can this be adjusted? Also it is starting to sink in about something that was said about my kingpin leak. Does each kingpin have it's own fluid fill plug seperate from the front axle fill plug that has the dipstick on it. And last but not least, since my rear fluid leak is around the pto shift rod, will I have to remove the whole pto housing to replace the o-ring?
Thanks, Ken
Thanks, Ken
rbargeron
Elite Member
Ken
I don't think there is a separate adjustment - there is a single release bearing that disengages the travel clutch, which in turn moves to push the pto clutch. The whole stack moves together.
There is a possibility that when the travel clutch was adjusted, it was moved a bit more than needed. To restore the release of the pto clutch, you could try adjusting the travel clutch so there is minimal free play in the pedal. Not so tight the throw-out bearing runs constantly, but so the wasted travel is minimized. Then when the pedal is pushed all the way down, it may disengage the pto clutch better. I had a L345DT that had this issue - I procrastinated for a few years - got to a point where I would shut the tractor off, engage the pto in low or high, and then start it back up. This is not that bad a situation, because with the pedal way down, the pto clutch doesn't really grab all that much - a spinning rotary cutter will not drive the tractor.
The front axle oil is all one volume - there are just two low point drains so it can all be changed.
I'm surprised that the oil seal on the pto shifter shaft can leak that much - the oil level in there is not very high - it must sling it toward the hole just right from the gears. I would not take the housing off for that. To get the oil seal out the manual probably says to take out the shaft from the inside. But it's a zero pressure situation - so I'd just put an o-ring or something around the outside. A tight wrap of several turns of string does a great job on a leak like this. No need to dive deep.
I don't think there is a separate adjustment - there is a single release bearing that disengages the travel clutch, which in turn moves to push the pto clutch. The whole stack moves together.
There is a possibility that when the travel clutch was adjusted, it was moved a bit more than needed. To restore the release of the pto clutch, you could try adjusting the travel clutch so there is minimal free play in the pedal. Not so tight the throw-out bearing runs constantly, but so the wasted travel is minimized. Then when the pedal is pushed all the way down, it may disengage the pto clutch better. I had a L345DT that had this issue - I procrastinated for a few years - got to a point where I would shut the tractor off, engage the pto in low or high, and then start it back up. This is not that bad a situation, because with the pedal way down, the pto clutch doesn't really grab all that much - a spinning rotary cutter will not drive the tractor.
The front axle oil is all one volume - there are just two low point drains so it can all be changed.
I'm surprised that the oil seal on the pto shifter shaft can leak that much - the oil level in there is not very high - it must sling it toward the hole just right from the gears. I would not take the housing off for that. To get the oil seal out the manual probably says to take out the shaft from the inside. But it's a zero pressure situation - so I'd just put an o-ring or something around the outside. A tight wrap of several turns of string does a great job on a leak like this. No need to dive deep.
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Dick I'll definitely try the exterior o-ring for the rear pto shaft. It's probably not leaking that much, but since this tractor is new to me and the nicest tractor I've ever had (I'm proud) I'd like to fix it. I'll try adjusting the clutch to see if I can get the pto to disengage. I found this article about a Jinma tractor (service ad 11), would it be posible to adjust the two stage clutch so both work good?
Jinma Service Bulletin 3
Thanks Dick for the quick informative response,
Ken
Jinma Service Bulletin 3
Thanks Dick for the quick informative response,
Ken
rbargeron
Elite Member
My memory is fuzzy on this - on my L345 there was no relative adjustment between the pto and travel clutch. On the L4350 there might be an access cover on the side of the bellhousing that allows wrench access. I was emailing someone about this and his loader frame covered the hole 
rbargeron
Elite Member
Update - in the workshop manual on page Z.S.2-8, there is a small picture and a procedure for checking the clearance - it implies that its adjustable but then goes on about some measurements that can only be done if the tractor is split and the bell housing is open at the back. Best to get a manual so you can look at all the descriptive pages and see what's there. The arrangement is similar to the Jinma but the clearance is small - like .035" - the access cover is just forward of the clutch pedal.
Alright, I removed inspection cover from side of bellhousing and found the three bolts like in the Jinma link. After playing with the clutch pedal and watching it I made the adjustment for the pto clutch. Then I made it again. After several more times, I finally was happy with the way it was working. Then I jumped on the rear leak around pto shift shaft. I removed retaining fork and pulled the shaft out. It would come out just far enough for me to see half of the o-ring. I dug it out with tiny screwdriver.Matched it up to a new one, stretched it over the pawl and shaft. Kinda packed it back in groove with flat tip screwdriver and shazam, it seems ok. Needless to say I worked all evening on the tractor, but I believe I made some headway. My phd now stops turning when I mash the pedal all the way down. All that is left is the kingpin leak.