L4350dt

[design]

Dick,
Glad to see you are still giving us good [and free ] advice on how to keep the L3 series machines still running.
If you recall, last year I looked at a L3750 and a L345 before choosing a L2900. Well I have come to realize that the L2900 is too small and I am looking at a L3830 (120 hours) or a L4150DT (2500 hours).

The 3830 is easy to figure out. However I would love your thoughts on the L4150.

Benefits:

R1's filled with Calcium
BF900 loader, 720 backhoe with subframe and PTO pump (Small hoe for that size tractor)
Engine sounds great for that number of hours. Actually the engine sounds better than my L2900 with 275 hours. The engine sounds more like a nice 6 cylinder BMW than that of a Tractor trailer rig. Almost no knock
A little black smoke when starting to go under load and than it goes away. I have not seen start up.
No front axle leaks or PTO leaks , A fluid leak near the rear of the engine on the block, left side above the loader bracket. I did not find out what the fluid was.
2 speed PTO
4WD,

Issues:
Welded front rim, it cracked through one of the lug nut holes, I am not sure how this happened.
Back hoe has a lot of pin and bushing wear. I am not sure this backhoe was always attached to this tractor.
BH to subframe mount was not clamped well and the holes are elongated and the pins are bent.
Hydraulic filter and fluid never changed.
Air filter has not been touched for the last 500 hours. Oil has been changed twice on the last 500 hours.
Rims are bent up at the bead seat a lot, but they hold air.
Battery needs replacement.

Any idea what this is worth?
Design
P.S. Feel free to call me.603-315-9002: I will try and get photos for you.

 

[rbargeron]

As you know from the experience you've gained, 2500 hours isn't necessarily a lot on a 20 year old tractor. Roughly homeowner hours.

Comments, in no particular order: Any working subframe backhoe is worth a few large even if it is well-worn. If the BF900 loader frame is straight and the pins still fit right, then it is likely the bh did some duty elsewhere. The fluid leak could be a freeze plug (coolant) or the oil pressure switch (oil). Make sure it is not coming out at the head gasket. A couple loose lug nuts can make cracks at the tight ones (too much reversing flex). The bent rim beads can be laid back down with a hammer unless they are rusty too. If the hydraulic oil is not contaminated with water it may be ok. A tractor stored inside gets less condensation in the oil. Air filter issue is only a deal breaker if the element is broken or missing - the small inner one must be present and whole. Wild guess - 12k private, 15k dealer. More questions would be about tire condition, leak-down of loader, condition of hydraulic hoses, valves. Generally a tractor with decent sheet metal and no new paint is a better bet to have had an easier life.

 

[design]

Dick,
Thanks for your help again! Are you joining the Kubota Marketing team?  You should get a commission for every L3 series tractor you have helped sell.

It is my understanding that the machine was on a farm prior to the current owner purchasing it. This is one additional reason that I think the backhoe is a recent add on.
The current owner has had the machine for 7 years and about 500 hours of worth of use. I know what he has told me for that period of time. Repair the leak at the left front axle seal. Change the engine oil twice. Put on a new seat.

As far as I can tell, the tachometer is original.-Good news! Fuel gage is broken. No big deal. E-Brake spring is broken, no big deal. Tie rod end/entire linkage near the power steering arm needs replacement. I don’t think that is a big issue. Please let me know if I am missing something, or the issue that caused this failure may create other issues long term. Front tie rods are bent. This has been used in the woods the last couple of years. With the front rim cracked, bent tie rods and a bent/broken tie rod to the power steering arm, was this abused recently?
Could the PS cylinder be leaking near the rear of the engine?

The comment on how the rim may have broken helps. Your explanation gives me another possible cause.

As I said, the engine sounds great for that many hours. (I’ll only add 150-200 hours/year.) Based on my use, this could last my life time with proper care. The engine purrs compared to my current machine.
Tires are at 40%
The air filter in place. I did not remove the outer filter to see if there was an inner filter. The outer filter was a pleated paper fabric type filter. The filter was very dirty for a filter, but not completely loaded up with dust. It did have an ounce of acorns shells inside the air filter housing. I am sure the filter has not been changed for the last 7 years.

Other thoughts in no order:
This is a column shift transmission for forward and reverse. (8x8) I think this means the dry 2 plate clutch style transmission correct? PTO stops turning when the clutch is depressed and has about 2” inches of remaining travel. Is this good?
The tractor has a step on both the left and right side leaving me to believe from other posts that this is an early model.
Sheet metal and loader frame seem to be in good shape. Bucket is in great shape for a 20 year hold tractor. Two hooks welded near the point where the curl cylinders touch the bucket. Heavy duty rounded back bucket.

The shaft leading from the transmission to the front axle appears to be exposed below the frame. Was this standard? Or, am I looking at a PTO shaft that runs to the front of the tractor?

Loader is slow, and can not pick up the tractor, either using the curl or the lift functions. Should I be concerned? He is asking 13K and we have discussed 10K for it.
I realized that HP and weight and tire type are more important than paint condition and age. I had trouble mowing snow last year as my tractor had insufficient traction. I may have learned this the hard way… Anyone want a L2900GST with loader???
I have photos, how do I send them to you? Or you can look for the listing on the NH.craigslist.org web site under: Kubota 4WD Tractor L4150 Loader & Backhoe


As always, Thanks in advance.
Design

 

[design]

BigK56,
Sorry for "stealing this thread". Nice job on the repairs on the 4350. It seems these tractors are the ones Kubota built their reputation on....
Good luck on the King pin repair.

 

[rbargeron]

.......This is a column shift transmission for forward and reverse. (8x8) I think this means the dry 2 plate clutch style transmission correct? PTO stops turning when the clutch is depressed and has about 2” inches of remaining travel. Is this good?.......
................The shaft leading from the transmission to the front axle appears to be exposed below the frame. Was this standard? Or, am I looking at a PTO shaft that runs to the front of the tractor?...........
.........Loader is slow, and can not pick up the tractor, either using the curl or the lift functions. Should I be concerned?

If you can shift forward-reverse without clutching, it has a hydraulic shuttle and a single dry clutch that controls travel and pto at the same time. If you need to partially clutch to reverse direction, it's a mechanical shuttle and would have the two-stage clutch. Both styles have the reversing lever on the column.
On my L4150 (1985) the drive to the front axle ran inside a tube. The engine oil pan had a hollow in the center area so the tube didn't encroach ground clearance too much but it is the low item behind the engine.
The slow and weak loader may be a problem. It should lift the tractor quickly without thinking about it - either lift or curl, especially with the backhoe weight on the back. I'd check the hydraulic hose routing carefully to see if everything is connected right. Might be as simple as the 3pt hitch lever being pushed up too high so it robs the system of power. But it might be a main pump problem - which could be a money item.
The Craigslist entry mentions it has chains - that will make all the difference moving snow.

 

[design]

Dick,
More information: SN: L4150HDT-51763 leads me to believe it is the hydraulic shuttle. I did not try this feature. I hope to stop by and see this again this weekend.

As for the hydraulic pump and other hydraulic features: steering, loader, clutching etc. I suspect the pump may be compromised and that may be part of the reason the tractor is getting sold. Is this a homeowner type repair or a "ship to Chappell"?

Any thoughts on the busted power steering arm/ steering link tie rod end?

I still think Kubota needs to put you on their payroll for the L3 series marketing...

Design.

 

[Bigk56]

Heres one from left field, I have ag tires on my 4350 right now. If I wanted to go to R-4s when these wear out do I have to change the wheels? For some reason thats what I'm thinking. Is this right or wrong?
Thanks, Ken

 

[rbargeron]

Dick,
More information: SN: L4150HDT-51763 leads me to believe it is the hydraulic shuttle. I did not try this feature. I hope to stop by and see this again this weekend.

As for the hydraulic pump and other hydraulic features: steering, loader, clutching etc. I suspect the pump may be compromised and that may be part of the reason the tractor is getting sold. Is this a homeowner type repair or a "ship to Chappell"?

Any thoughts on the busted power steering arm/ steering link tie rod end?

On L4150's the hydraulic shuttle works best at low engine rpm. At high rpm you can do a face plant in the steering wheel going into reverse. There is a selector valve in the cowl that adjusts the port size for warm/cold climates.

The power steering has its own pump and reservoir, independent of the trans and 3-pt hitch hydraulic system. If you can talk to somebody at Chappell about the symptoms first that would be good. It could just be dirt holding a relief valve open - can you hear any whishing anywhere?

Busted or bent steering linkage is most often from low-speed collisions with immovable objects - doesn't reflect on the tractor much (maybe the operator) all of it can be re-bent and fixed.

 

[rbargeron]

Heres one from left field, I have ag tires on my 4350 right now. If I wanted to go to R-4s when these wear out do I have to change the wheels? For some reason thats what I'm thinking. Is this right or wrong?
Thanks, Ken

Yes you're right - the rim sizes are different. For example, the R4's on my L5450 are 17.5x24 (rear) and 12x16.5 (front). You do need to get the right size tires (and wheels) so everything works right in 4 wheel drive.

 

[design]

Dick,
Up for a trip to the Concord area? I would be willing to cover your costs and give you a reasonable stipend for your time. You seem to know these machines better than anyone else I have spoken to.
I hope to see the tractor this Saturday again. If I can get over there before than, I will try and take photos of any possible concerns. This seems like a good deal
Design