M9540 Belly Skid Plate/Brush Guard
- Thread starter ovrszd
- Start date
Rustyiron
Super Member
No I made it for my self and if I paid myself $10/hr. for the hours I have building it, it would still be several thousand dollars.:laughing: Not really but not too far off either. As Overszd said above in response to a post, would really be hard to guaranty a fit on anything else other than an exact clone of his tractor. Find a local welder or shop and have it done locally. Some where here (TBN) I did a thread on my build but I'd be happy to help out with pics or questions.
OP
ovrszd
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- May 27, 2006
- Messages
- 33,499
- Location
- Missouri
- Tractor
- Kubota M9540, Ford 3910FWD, Ford 555A, JD2210
I suggest you print Eric's pic and take it to a local welding shop and see what they can do for you. They'll need to have your tractor onsite while they fabricate. Be sure to update us on your progress.
I have already contacted a local welding shop and showed him the pictures of your build. You did a great job there. He's trying to figure it out but as you said I'll have to drop him the tractor so he can come up with a temple plat. Mine is a M9540 Ac cab If you have anything drawling etc that would help that would be great. Thanks for the reply you guys are great!
I'll post pictures when I finally get something under there!
I'll post pictures when I finally get something under there!
OP
ovrszd
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- May 27, 2006
- Messages
- 33,499
- Location
- Missouri
- Tractor
- Kubota M9540, Ford 3910FWD, Ford 555A, JD2210
He'll use the existing threaded holes in the bottom of your trans/rear axle. Once he has your tractor onsite it'll make sense to him.
Eric's build is topshelf quality!!
Eric's build is topshelf quality!!
Rustyiron
Super Member
toledojff, here's a link to my not so detailed build thread. https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/269134-tractor-skid-pan-toolbox-passenger.html
There's basically 3 "crossmembers" that take advantage of the limited attachment points on the tractor. That created some spans that I felt were too long to support the machine (on a stump or rock) with the 1/4" actual skid plate. (there are 3 pieces to the plate as well) I felt that anything thicker (heavier) would be a real chore to remove for service or cleaning out the piles of chaff, leaves & sticks that accumulate bush hogging the jungle of stuff that I'm mowing, that stuff is a fire hazard. I set out to make a bullet proof tractor similar to what I've seen them do to tractors that are modified for "right of way" mowing on utility easments, you may be using your tractor in a more traditional agricultural situation and not need to go to some of the protection levels that I have but the basic attachment points will prolly be used by your welder guy.
I'll add a few pics that explain some of the "tabs" that you can see in that post that might explain a few things.
this is the rear "pan" and there are 2 "rib's" welded to help with the long span between mounting points. The one is bent around the factory fuel tank bracket on the tractor. They are just 1/2 x 2 bar. There is also one of these bars bolted between 2 x-members. (2nd pic. left side, bottom)
This is the center section, again there are 3 of these bars that bolt (vertically) to the 2nd & 3rd x-member. They only are there for the pan to push against if needed and are not attached to the pan.
All the "flat" tabs are simply to bolt on the pans. There are nuts welded to them.
The front area under the engine was about 3" higher than the rest of it, I wanted to maintain as much ground clearance as possible. This again uses the 1/2x2" flat bar stood vertically. It's supported in 3 places and being so close to (and a few inches higher than) the front axle, has never seen a rock or stump. This front section, at least in my use seem's only to be a "belly pan" only for stick - brush protection and not so much a skid plate.
see the 3" jump up for the front Those painted 4" channel's were for possible support for side engine guarding that I
have not needed but were handy for this.
There's basically 3 "crossmembers" that take advantage of the limited attachment points on the tractor. That created some spans that I felt were too long to support the machine (on a stump or rock) with the 1/4" actual skid plate. (there are 3 pieces to the plate as well) I felt that anything thicker (heavier) would be a real chore to remove for service or cleaning out the piles of chaff, leaves & sticks that accumulate bush hogging the jungle of stuff that I'm mowing, that stuff is a fire hazard. I set out to make a bullet proof tractor similar to what I've seen them do to tractors that are modified for "right of way" mowing on utility easments, you may be using your tractor in a more traditional agricultural situation and not need to go to some of the protection levels that I have but the basic attachment points will prolly be used by your welder guy.
I'll add a few pics that explain some of the "tabs" that you can see in that post that might explain a few things.
this is the rear "pan" and there are 2 "rib's" welded to help with the long span between mounting points. The one is bent around the factory fuel tank bracket on the tractor. They are just 1/2 x 2 bar. There is also one of these bars bolted between 2 x-members. (2nd pic. left side, bottom)
This is the center section, again there are 3 of these bars that bolt (vertically) to the 2nd & 3rd x-member. They only are there for the pan to push against if needed and are not attached to the pan.
The front area under the engine was about 3" higher than the rest of it, I wanted to maintain as much ground clearance as possible. This again uses the 1/2x2" flat bar stood vertically. It's supported in 3 places and being so close to (and a few inches higher than) the front axle, has never seen a rock or stump. This front section, at least in my use seem's only to be a "belly pan" only for stick - brush protection and not so much a skid plate.
see the 3" jump up for the front Those painted 4" channel's were for possible support for side engine guarding that I
have not needed but were handy for this.
Super great info I can't thank you enough! I'm mostly using my tractor to keep my hunting lease food plots and right of ways open. I also contend with logging on my lease and I'm having problem with sticks flipping up and damaging my tractor. I'll give this great info to the welding shop and I hope to blue print my build and share it on here for others having the same problems. Thanks again!!
RoyKing
Platinum Member
Well after getting turned down by the two welding shops in my home town I ventured out looking for welders in more rural area's and I found one that fixes up the peanut farmers, and logging companies equipment, and who had built several up armored tractors and skid steers for rough off road work. Gave him pictures provided by out TBN members, will be adding a toolbox on the right side and larger steps on the left, so this old fatman can get in and out easier.
Thanks guys for all your great ideas.
Thanks guys for all your great ideas.