OP
RAHarden
Bronze Member
- Joined
- Dec 13, 2018
- Messages
- 99
- Location
- Dixon, Illinois 61021
- Tractor
- Mahindra 2555 HST, John Deere 534, Minneapolis Moline UB, M5, Jet Star
I received the new seals/O-rings yesterday. I reassembled the PSU late in the afternoon. I ended up purchasing Viton seals/O-rings. I went back with the quad ring seal. I had called, sent emails, pictures and measurements to four different seal companies that had tech departments, that were to advise and offer a different seal type, other than the quad ring. No one ever got back to me, except one person. Very disappointing. That company wanted $300 to start the design process and more money as they worked on this. He said this could cost up to $1000 and he could not guarantee success. I decided to try Viton. It has a higher temp rating and it's got other good properties over Buna rubber. I'll install the PSU this morning and then see if it leaks. I'll write back and inform you of my success or failure.
Well good news. No leaks and the power steering works just fine. It took a good hour to install the PSU in the tractor. It went back together easier than it came apart. It's really not a bad job, once you've done it. I drove the tractor around my driveway and set the steering wheel the way I like it and tightened the nut. All done and happy. I don't know how long it will last, but for now, it's dry. I'll post my parts receipt on my post. All the parts/seals together were less than $27. A whole bunch cheaper than a new PSU.
If anyone needs any help in rebuilding their PSU, please contact me. As long as the PSU is in good condition, a few seals and O-rings should make it like new again.
Caution!!! I had to drill the hub of the steering wheel so I could use my puller. My SW didn't have threaded holes for the puller bolts. Don't beat on the SW to remove it or you may cause damage to the PSU. A bearing puller, placed under the SW will work also, if you have one. I didn't.
I added the parts receipt for general information. I ordered two seals for the 22x30x5 seal. They didn't offer these seals in x5, only x4 or x6, so I bought one of each. Both of these seals have the double lip, with the lip spring. The original did not have the lip spring. It was a cheaply made seal. I used the 22x30x6 seal. It fit fine. I also ordered three quad rings, just to have extras and I received nine of the small O-rings, but you only need four of these. I don't know why they send nine, but they are inexpensive. All these seals and O-rings fit fine. When I assembled the PSU, I had to heat the housing. I used an industrial electric heat gun. I got it hot enough where I had to use gloves to handle it. The spool did not want to fit inside the housing. Tight clearances! The heat did the trick. Don't force this. You could cause galling. Also, be sure you install the quad into the seal fit, inside the housing before you insert the spool. It should stay in place. Mine did. Don't install the quad ring on the steering shaft and then into the housing. It will not fit and you will damage the seal. I lubed the spool shaft and inserted it through the quad ring. I then placed the PSU in a large vise, shaft side down for final assembly. Be sure the impeller seal is facing the end cover of the PSU and all of the larger O-rings are installed. There is a small spacer button that must be installed in the impeller drive opening. Don't forget this! I installed and torqued the four bolts that hold the PSU together, to 30 foot pounds. Make sure these bolts have the copper washers on them. The cooper crushes and that seals the bolts, which keeps them from leaking out the bolt head. My washers were fine and I used them again. The only cleaning I did to the PSU before assembly was a clean, lint free rag and air. Watch for black paint chips! I used some of the drained off PSU oil for seal lubricant during assembly. After I fully assembled and torqued the four bolts, I inserted a 3/8" Allen wrench in the steering wheel shaft and checked to see it turned. My PSU turned fine, no binding. Ready to install. I did not prime the PSU. Good luck!
Well good news. No leaks and the power steering works just fine. It took a good hour to install the PSU in the tractor. It went back together easier than it came apart. It's really not a bad job, once you've done it. I drove the tractor around my driveway and set the steering wheel the way I like it and tightened the nut. All done and happy. I don't know how long it will last, but for now, it's dry. I'll post my parts receipt on my post. All the parts/seals together were less than $27. A whole bunch cheaper than a new PSU.
If anyone needs any help in rebuilding their PSU, please contact me. As long as the PSU is in good condition, a few seals and O-rings should make it like new again.
Caution!!! I had to drill the hub of the steering wheel so I could use my puller. My SW didn't have threaded holes for the puller bolts. Don't beat on the SW to remove it or you may cause damage to the PSU. A bearing puller, placed under the SW will work also, if you have one. I didn't.
I added the parts receipt for general information. I ordered two seals for the 22x30x5 seal. They didn't offer these seals in x5, only x4 or x6, so I bought one of each. Both of these seals have the double lip, with the lip spring. The original did not have the lip spring. It was a cheaply made seal. I used the 22x30x6 seal. It fit fine. I also ordered three quad rings, just to have extras and I received nine of the small O-rings, but you only need four of these. I don't know why they send nine, but they are inexpensive. All these seals and O-rings fit fine. When I assembled the PSU, I had to heat the housing. I used an industrial electric heat gun. I got it hot enough where I had to use gloves to handle it. The spool did not want to fit inside the housing. Tight clearances! The heat did the trick. Don't force this. You could cause galling. Also, be sure you install the quad into the seal fit, inside the housing before you insert the spool. It should stay in place. Mine did. Don't install the quad ring on the steering shaft and then into the housing. It will not fit and you will damage the seal. I lubed the spool shaft and inserted it through the quad ring. I then placed the PSU in a large vise, shaft side down for final assembly. Be sure the impeller seal is facing the end cover of the PSU and all of the larger O-rings are installed. There is a small spacer button that must be installed in the impeller drive opening. Don't forget this! I installed and torqued the four bolts that hold the PSU together, to 30 foot pounds. Make sure these bolts have the copper washers on them. The cooper crushes and that seals the bolts, which keeps them from leaking out the bolt head. My washers were fine and I used them again. The only cleaning I did to the PSU before assembly was a clean, lint free rag and air. Watch for black paint chips! I used some of the drained off PSU oil for seal lubricant during assembly. After I fully assembled and torqued the four bolts, I inserted a 3/8" Allen wrench in the steering wheel shaft and checked to see it turned. My PSU turned fine, no binding. Ready to install. I did not prime the PSU. Good luck!
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