MF 35 with Z134 engine - Oil pressure Issues

[grm61]

Are you confident the oil pressure gauge is operational?
If you are willing to risk a few more seconds on the rotating assembly you could unhook the line at the port on the motor, pull the coil wire off, crank it for 3 or 4 seconds and see if any oil comes out.

There is not much air volume in the line....but...bad gauge + air in the line???

Might eliminate that before another tear down.

I know you what you are doing, just throwing more things out there to muddle your brain

 

[Kenneth S]

I pack the pump with white lithium grease, also make sure the aluminum gear on the front of the oil pump turns the shaft for the oil pump. The continental does not have cam bearings the cam runs in bores of the block, and there isn't a way to turn the oil pump externally. It's really a simple engine. You can click on the link in my signature for the oil system mods I did on my Z134.

 

[grm61]

I pack the pump with white lithium grease, also make sure the aluminum gear on the front of the oil pump turns the shaft for the oil pump. The continental does not have cam bearings the cam runs in bores of the block, and there isn't a way to turn the oil pump externally. It's really a simple engine. You can click on the link in my signature for the oil system mods I did on my Z134.

I do believe you are the one the OP should be talking to:thumbsup:

 

[drs1023]

Grm6- I bought all new gages & made a new line for the oil sender, so I think that's OK. I removed the gage, and nothing came out the line, so it's definitely not pumping. And Kenneth, that's pretty impressive engineering, and I agree that a cage around that spin off is needed. That wouldn't last long in rough bush hogging areas.
One other thing-my cover plate has a sunken area which looks like a machined in area about .030" deep and 5/8" x 5/8" in a radius. It's offset a little toward the bottom gear, so I left that open area when I welded up the score marks in the plate. I've been inside some Ford, A/C, and Farmall engines back in the day on the farm, but this is only the 2nd MF, and the first was for rings and bearings only around 25 years ago. My dad still uses that '57 TO 35 all the time. I was told yesterday that the cover plate should be perfectly flat inside, and I should get another cover plate. I ordered another rebuild kit, and I am going to make another cover plate from 5/16" plate and make sure it's good & flat. I will know more then.

 

[KYErik]

Does this engine have a spin on oil filter? If so, unscrew it to double check that there was no oil pumping- it would have taken a few seconds to fill a dry engine/filter.

You can use an oil can and add some oil down the disconnected oil pressure sender tube or to the center port of the spin on oil filter fitting to get some more oil on the bearings before you spin the engine any more.

 

[drs1023]

Thank you for your suggestion-I did that already, but haven't reassembled the pump yet (waiting on parts). I squirted oil down the gage tube, but it runs out at the pump location right now since the pump is still off the engine. I upgraded the sending unit tube from the stock 1/8" to 1/4" so the oil ran down pretty good. This engine still has the cartridge filter canister.

 

[Kenneth S]

Making sure the plate that bolts to the pump is flat is always something to check with the continental Z series oil pump. I hate the continental pump so much that I actually considered running a very small external gear type hydraulic oil pump but there was no practical way to mount, and run it.

 

[drs1023]

I did undo the gage, but there was no oil when I turned the engine over. I found a used pump at a decent price so I will have something to compare rebuilding my pump. Remember, I got this tractor in boxes and baskets with a fair share of missing parts. I may have done something wrong on the rebuild. Never have before as I recall, but anything's possible.

 

[Jerry/MT]

Thank you for your suggestion-I did that already, but haven't reassembled the pump yet (waiting on parts). I squirted oil down the gage tube, but it runs out at the pump location right now since the pump is still off the engine. I upgraded the sending unit tube from the stock 1/8" to 1/4" so the oil ran down pretty good. This engine still has the cartridge filter canister.

The gauge doesn't have to have oil to it. There just has to be oil pressure to the point on the block where the tube fitting is. There can be air in the rest of the line and the pressure at the gauge( assuming the gauge is working and accurate) will be correct.

 

[drs1023]

Thanks, Jerry. I removed the gage for that reason. I wanted to be sure there was oil moving through the system.