Must be fall ... the Moles are back

   / Must be fall ... the Moles are back #31  
Bill, I've never seen one of those twin set Victors, don't quite understand just how they work, but they're definitely too expensive. And the Rodenator? That looks like it might do more damage to my yard that the moles are doing.:laughing: I have two new mounds in the yard this morning; one less than 6 feet from the new Windmill.:laughing: So I set the trap again, too, and we'll see what happens.

Bird,
That's a twin pack. There are two traps in the set for $26.00. That's a pretty average price, as they are about $12-$13 individually around here.;)
 
   / Must be fall ... the Moles are back #32  
SARG--that is shocking to see.
We are new to this area and I have not seen any moles--do you even see them?---but we do have small holes near some newer trees. Not in the lawn.
Maybe mice but I don't know.
Then again, I have dogs as a deterrent.
We have, however, found some dead critters occasionally that look like 3 inch long lobsters--no kidding-- and people tell me they live in holes around the yard.
I have no idea.

If you see holes, it isn't moles. Moles do not like sunlight and close all holes.

If you see little lobsters, get the butter!!! :licking:

As Bird mentioned, little lobsters are crayfish. They make little mud chimneys in damp soil.
 
   / Must be fall ... the Moles are back #33  
Someone told us Juicy Fruit gum works...they eat it and die after it gets stuck. Might not be as humane, but we are battling them as well. Haven't had the heart to try the gum trick, though.
Getting rid of the grubs is what we are trying now.
 
   / Must be fall ... the Moles are back #34  
Someone told us Juicy Fruit gum works...they eat it and die after it gets stuck. Might not be as humane, but we are battling them as well. Haven't had the heart to try the gum trick, though.
Getting rid of the grubs is what we are trying now.

I've said this before in these mole posts and will say it again...

Until someone shows me a mole that has died from chewing gum, I will not believe it. :licking:

As for getting rid of the grubs... moles are carnivores and eat meat. Grubs are meat. However, moles primary food is earthworms. And from what I have read, most grub killer also kills earthworms. So, if you want to eliminate the moles food source, you pretty much have to turn your lawn into a sterile growing medium for grass. And that requires pesticides and fertilizer. It is best to trap the moles out of the property and then trap the perimeter at the first sign of moles. That's my opinion, of course. :laughing:
 
   / Must be fall ... the Moles are back #35  
I might just take a page out of Carl Spackler's book, then :)
 
   / Must be fall ... the Moles are back #36  
....

As for getting rid of the grubs... moles are carnivores and eat meat. Grubs are meat. However, moles primary food is earthworms. And from what I have read, most grub killer also kills earthworms. ...

I'm increasingly confused about grubs.
We have grubs here and there, and have put down grub killer to get rid of them.
I didn't realize I might kill worms.
So how do I get rid of grubs?
 
   / Must be fall ... the Moles are back #37  
if your having luck with the out of sight trap: please explain how you are setting the traps?? and do you put a bucket over the top to keep the light out??? thanks
heehaw
 
   / Must be fall ... the Moles are back #38  
I'm increasingly confused about grubs.
We have grubs here and there, and have put down grub killer to get rid of them.
I didn't realize I might kill worms.
So how do I get rid of grubs?
Grub killer. Kind of a catch 22, yes? Darned if you do and darned if you don't.

You can try and kill the adult beetles before they reproduce, too.
 
   / Must be fall ... the Moles are back #39  
Moles have two kinds of tunnels.
1. Feeding tunnels. That area of the lawn that looks like a wrinkled up carpet.
2. Highway tunnels (for lack of a better term). Those are the tunnels they use to get from home to work.
Those are the long, vein like tunnels with the occasional mound of dirt.

It is just about impossible to trap them in the feeding areas because it is so large and random.

Likewise, it is just about impossible to trap them in any mounds that they make. Mounds are where they push excess dirt up and out of their tunnels. If you dig up a tunnel, you will see two holes. If you dig up a mound, you will usually see only one hole. Setting a trap on a mound means the mole will have to push a bunch of dirt up, triggering the trap from underneath and not going between the scissors of the Out O Sight trap. Also, he may push so much dirt up that spike type traps won't reach down far enough to stab him.

The best place to trap them is in the highway tunnels.

Use the heel of your shoe to depress the tunnel every 10' or so. Check it again in 24 hours. If a mole comes through, it will pop your heel print back up. This indicates an active tunnel and that is where you should set your trap.

The Out O Sight trap is like two sets of scissors with a trigger between them.

Use your heel again and press down the tunnel in one spot.

Lay the un-set trap down across the tunnel so that it goes tunnel, scissors, trigger, scissors, tunnel, then use a small spade to cut slits down across the tunnel where each of the scissors will go. These two slits will make it easier for you to place the set trap.

Use the spring bars to set the trap and engage the safety hook. Keep the spring bars on the trap and keep a good grip on them. Use them as a handle to insert the two scissors into the two slits and push the trap down so that the trigger bar goes into the depression that your heel made. Make sure the trigger bar has good contact with the soil.

Slowly release the spring bars and remove them from the trap.

CAREFULLY unhook the safety hook.

Now, if a mole comes through the tunnel from either direction it will encounter a collapsed tunnel. By its nature, it will try to open the tunnel back up. In doing so, it will have to pass between the open blades of one set of scissor or the other and attempt to push the dirt up. As it pushes the dirt up under the trigger, it trips the trap and is pinched, usually right in the rib section, by one of the sets of scissors. And that's that.

When you set it, you should never need to put a bucket over it to block light in the tunnel, because there should be no light from you setting it. The only reason for a bucket would be to keep pets, small animals, and lawnmowers from messing with the trap.

To set it in deeper tunnels, you dig out a cross section of the tunnel as wide as the trap. Make sure you place the trap so that either tunnel enters the trap through the open set of scissors. Remove the trap from the hole, set a piece of sod in the hole so it blocks both tunnel entrances. Set your trap so that the trigger is snug against the sod. The sod will block the light from the tunnels. Again, if the mole enters from either side, it will encounter the collapsed tunnel and try to push the sod up, against the trigger.

The only place I have had trouble setting this trap is in really dry, sandy soil. The sand tends to fall out from under the trigger rather than being pushed up against it. You can drill a hole in the trigger and a canning jar lid and pop-rivet the lid to the trigger to make a larger trigger area. Then use some sod from a different location under the trigger in the bottom of the sandy hole. That usually works.

Hope that helps. Happy hunting. :thumbsup:
 
   / Must be fall ... the Moles are back #40  
MossRoad
Great post.
 
 
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