My new to me Ford 1600

[JC-jetro]

So i refreshed all the fluids today but the coolant, which was still good.
I have heard that the tranny/differential resevoir and the hydro resovoir kinda spill over eachother and are essentially the same. I definatly did not see that. The guy at NH dealer told me they were combined and would only take 20 quarts....WRONG. The rear diff with the dipstick benieth the seat was milky brown and took 20+ quarts to replace
The front section, the hydro, with the dip stick below the steering wheel, was not milky, looked like just some old dirty hydro fluid. It also took 20 quarts to top off. ( i assume the loader causes it to need more?).

I would have to say they are seperate Resevoirs

Then injector pump was reeealy low. Need to keep an eye on the.
Steering gear was also way low.
Changed the fuel filter, which for some reason caused the engine to run like crap for a while.....i am guessing the system didnt like that i slapped the new filter and bowl back on without filling it with fuel.

You need to bleed the air anytime fuel filter is changed.

can you identify hyd pump suction and pressure line?

how did you conclude separation of diffy /transmission from hyd system. Did you take the transmission top cover off?

JC.

 

[Rlutterb]

You need to bleed the air anytime fuel filter is changed.

can you identify hyd pump suction and pressure line?

how did you conclude separation of diffy /transmission from hyd system. Did you take the transmission top cover off?

JC.

I dont know how to ID the hyd pump suction and pressure line

My minimally educated guess that the duffy/tranny resevoir is seperate from the hyd system is based only on my observation that the diffy tranny fluid drained from the rear axle plug was contaminated and milky brown whilst the hyd fluid drained from the forward plug was not contaminated, as well as the fact that when i totally drained the fluid from the rear diffy drain plug, the fluid level on the dip stick at the base of the steering wheel (what i assume is the hydro dip stick) did not read empty. My thought is that if they shared a resevoir, they would both have been milky. I could be wrong as i'm definatly a tractoe neophyte!

 

[JC-jetro]

I dont know how to ID the hyd pump suction and pressure line

My minimally educated guess that the duffy/tranny resevoir is seperate from the hyd system is based only on my observation that the diffy tranny fluid drained from the rear axle plug was contaminated and milky brown whilst the hyd fluid drained from the forward plug was not contaminated, as well as the fact that when i totally drained the fluid from the rear diffy drain plug, the fluid level on the dip stick at the base of the steering wheel (what i assume is the hydro dip stick) did not read empty. My thought is that if they shared a resevoir, they would both have been milky. I could be wrong as i'm definatly a tractoe neophyte!

Can you identify you hydraulic pump? Almost always the bigger pipe attached to the pump is the suction and most certainly it termainates at the side of diffy housing with some fitting. The discharge will always be smaller dia pipe coming out of the pump.

What is a "hydro dip stick"? those two oils will be separate if you have a hydrostatic transmission. is that the case? Your picture of the transmission stick shift and lack of hydro pedal does not support that.

Bottom of diffy is the point of very low velocity as a reservoir. Crud will certainly collect there and not in transmission. You might have just released the crud collected from the bottom of diffy.

You might take a few minutes to go thru these two links, although it is intended for neophyte audience only.


JC,

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...ng/90819-my-f-1700-testing-my.html?highlight=

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...ford-1700-steering-arm-lesson.html?highlight=

 

[Rlutterb]

Another new question.........i bought a used proof meter to replace the dead one that came on the 1600. The tach needle wiggles alot but does not register engine speed. Attached are pics of the end of the cable and the back of the gauge. I am thinking the cable is supposed to be square and not round?

 

[JC-jetro]

Rlutterb,


All you do is asking questions and you hardly give any feedback if the answers were useful or not and how you ended up dealing with your issues at hand. This back and forth is common in this forum benefiting all of what to watch and commonalities or differences amongst pieces of equipments. It'll be all good information for all.


Here is how my 1700 hr meter cable end looks and fitting at the timing gear cover.


JC,

 

[Rlutterb]

I would agree that thus far most of my posting has been one way - me learning from others. Mostly that's because I'm just getting started and have not acted yet on alot of the advice. I did post my learings on June 1st about what I experienced when I changed out the fluids, and I certainly will 'give back' as I learn more. I've not dealt with the fron axle issue yet, and when I do get my proof meter running, I absolutley will update my expreiences and the result. On other forums I've posted entire tutorials on how to do things. I restored a 73 vw beetle and put up entire threads on how to rewire the wiper motor, how to replace the dash, how to weld in floor patch panels, so as I learn and do more on my 1600, I will definately give back. You have given me some good info thus are, as have others in this forum, with I much appreciate.

 

[JC-jetro]

I would agree that thus far most of my posting has been one way - me learning from others. Mostly that's because I'm just getting started and have not acted yet on alot of the advice. I did post my learings on June 1st about what I experienced when I changed out the fluids, and I certainly will 'give back' as I learn more. I've not dealt with the fron axle issue yet, and when I do get my proof meter running, I absolutley will update my expreiences and the result. On other forums I've posted entire tutorials on how to do things. I restored a 73 vw beetle and put up entire threads on how to rewire the wiper motor, how to replace the dash, how to weld in floor patch panels, so as I learn and do more on my 1600, I will definately give back. You have given me some good info thus are, as have others in this forum, with I much appreciate.

It's all good. :thumbsup:

JC,

 

[Rlutterb]

Rlutterb,


All you do is asking questions and you hardly give any feedback if the answers were useful or not and how you ended up dealing with your issues at hand. This back and forth is common in this forum benefiting all of what to watch and commonalities or differences amongst pieces of equipments. It'll be all good information for all.


Here is how my 1700 hr meter cable end looks and fitting at the timing gear cover.


JC,

There are significant differences between the 1600 proof meter and your 1700 proof meter. the 1600 has a female thread to accept the cable, the 1700 a male thread (although you cannot see that from my pics).......and the shaft on the 1700 uses a kindof 'notch' to drive the proofmeter gears. I think if you look at the 1600 shaft pic I posted, you can see way down at teh base that it's square........so that's a bummer, it means I cannot use a 1700 cable on my 1600 proofmeter.

 

[JC-jetro]

There are significant differences between the 1600 proof meter and your 1700 proof meter. the 1600 has a female thread to accept the cable, the 1700 a male thread (although you cannot see that from my pics).......and the shaft on the 1700 uses a kindof 'notch' to drive the proofmeter gears. I think if you look at the 1600 shaft pic I posted, you can see way down at teh base that it's square........so that's a bummer, it means I cannot use a 1700 cable on my 1600 proofmeter.

I have seen them with squared end like you have shown on your pic. I wondered if the cable was rounded off due to your meter internally being jammed. I'd suggest you find a square end screwdriver head, put it on a drill, insert it in a hole and gently turn the drill on. I put the drill clutch pretty low so it would not cause too much torque. I'd then verify if the meter responds.

Have you considered to put the end of the cable in a vise and squeeze it to a more square end? you can use a dremmel tool and a small stone to shape the end to look more squared to fit the square peg.

JC,

 

[Rlutterb]

Have you considered to put the end of the cable in a vise and squeeze it to a more square end? you can use a dremmel tool and a small stone to shape the end to look more squared to fit the square peg.

JC,

Member Listzeljko zoricic told me about ncwtractorparts.com, a place where he gets parts. I talked to Winn, very knowledgeable, and he has the right proof meter cable for the 1600. In case the cable is not correct, i will try and square off the end of my existing cable.