My new to me Ford 1600

   / My new to me Ford 1600 #21  
Member Listzeljko zoricic told me about ncwtractorparts.com, a place where he gets parts. I talked to Winn, very knowledgeable, and he has the right proof meter cable for the 1600. In case the cable is not correct, i will try and square off the end of my existing cable.

Nice:thumbsup: There is always someone here that has the right answer. :)

JC,
 
   / My new to me Ford 1600
  • Thread Starter
#22  
got the new cable from NCW yesterday. It threaded right on and it was great to watch that 30+ year old meter jump to life! Next up, the charge light remains on, and the oil light is flickering. I hope the oil light is a shorting issue, and I assume the charge light is a grounding issue, as all the electrical works well and the battery charges nice. Still waiting on the new temp guage from NCW. At that point I'll have all the dash componants in working order.
After than, I plan to power wash the tractor using a enviro-friendly solvent and try to get the years worth of gunk off.
 
   / My new to me Ford 1600 #23  
got the new cable from NCW yesterday. It threaded right on and it was great to watch that 30+ year old meter jump to life! Next up, the charge light remains on, and the oil light is flickering. I hope the oil light is a shorting issue, and I assume the charge light is a grounding issue, as all the electrical works well and the battery charges nice. Still waiting on the new temp guage from NCW. At that point I'll have all the dash componants in working order.
After than, I plan to power wash the tractor using a enviro-friendly solvent and try to get the years worth of gunk off.

It appears you're gaining on it :thumbsup:. I make sure I have enough oil in the crankcase. The oil sender is normally closed switch and it opens up by oil pressure against an internal spring. A test light on the switch against the ground should light up the light and go off as soon as engine starts. Can do the same test with ohm meter. with the engine off the resistance to ground should be zero and infinity(open) when engine starts. Might have lose wiring as well. The light bulb under th dash might be lose or filament partially broken. Can take the light easily out from under the dash to test. I figure you got some lose wiring. As long as battery is good, plenty of oil and keeping your eyes on temp gauge all will be done in good time.

JC,
 
   / My new to me Ford 1600
  • Thread Starter
#24  
Got the new proofmeter, temp guage, and horn button installed, thought i would share a pic if a 1600 dash with al the stuff installed
 

Attachments

  • image-655376532.jpg
    image-655376532.jpg
    282.2 KB · Views: 213
   / My new to me Ford 1600 #25  
Got the new proofmeter, temp guage, and horn button installed, thought i would share a pic if a 1600 dash with al the stuff installed

Very nice :thumbsup: good job. What is the black button switch? is it horn?

JC,
 
   / My new to me Ford 1600
  • Thread Starter
#26  
Yep, its the horn. Its a generic button. Not seen a pic of the original horn button or the original light switch. Anyone got a pic of that?
 
   / My new to me Ford 1600
  • Thread Starter
#27  
Another progress update..........I ordered a new oil sensor and fuel filter bowl from NCW (I cannot say enough about the knowledge of Winn at NCW. He is an expert on the Japanese Fords. Call him at 866 582 1172 if you need parts and want to discuss details. He spends time on the phone with you and makes sure you get the correct parts) I got the fuel bowl on last night, and when I started messing with the existing oil sensor, it turned out that the years worth of gunk was causing the wire to not maintain a good electrical connection to the sensor. I unscrewed the wire, cleaned things up, and now it works fine! Now I have a spare oil pressure sensor!
Taking the alternator to autozone for testing this weekend. Hopefully its just the voltage regulator!

Question....I want to buy a new bucket for the loader. Are the connection points all the same in terms of the measurements and fit between compact tractors?
 
   / My new to me Ford 1600 #28  
progressing nicely. The bucket dimension will not be the same on different make or model. Even if physically the same dimensions then connection point, pivot and etc will be different. Suggest to just investigate beat the bucket to original shape as good as you can and weld on support appropriately where you need. That should cost you less.

JC,
 
   / My new to me Ford 1600
  • Thread Starter
#29  
Alternator tested out fine. Autozone was clueless as to what model it was and thus said they could not test it. A bit of quick net surfing while they waited on other customers and i learned its the same as what came on a 1970's nissan. With that he tested and its good. I'll test the volt reg next. Got a front flat so i went and put two new front tires in it. $114 installed.

I pounded on the bucket a bit to see if i could get it back close to the right shape. Not much progress, its really dented and warped.
 
   / My new to me Ford 1600 #30  
Alternator tested out fine. Autozone was clueless as to what model it was and thus said they could not test it. A bit of quick net surfing while they waited on other customers and i learned its the same as what came on a 1970's nissan. With that he tested and its good. I'll test the volt reg next. Got a front flat so i went and put two new front tires in it. $114 installed.

I pounded on the bucket a bit to see if i could get it back close to the right shape. Not much progress, its really dented and warped.

Ok. Any pic of the bucket. it does not need to be pretty. Can you weld on stiffener to it in the shape it is so it would not get worse. Not a bad price of tires, are they 4 plies. I got couple of turf tires for front and it set me back about $90 several years ago.

JC,
 
 
Top