My Remote and TnT Install on L3400

[canoetrpr]

SR - thats a good tip about the zip tie. I missed that part.

Rob. That is a good idea. I have a lot less confidence than you in ripping into the OEM stuff that came with the tractor ;-). If the lower link is welded right is there any reason to believe that it would be weaker than without the weld? Just want to think twice before cutting into stuff.

Sounds like a much cheaper and easier solution though.

3PT capacity hasn't affected me at all with the Pats. My tractor does not have huge 3PT capacity but everything I have thrown at it, including round bales, it has done without any trouble at all.

 

[MJPetersen]

You can do what Rob suggested and think of it this way--you are restoring the effective OEM lift arm length.

That is the way that the arms are made in the first place. They have the ends, bend the arms to the proper shape and weld the ends on. Just cut the one end off, cut out the length that "Pat's quick hitch added, and weld the end back on. It is not a big deal and will then be a lot less hassle in the future than having to play with an extender for the top link every time that you hook up.

Mike

 

[canoetrpr]

Hmm... you and Rob are starting to convince me. I'll take a good look to ensure that I can't screw anything up

I guess the end i shoud be taking off is the one that the Pat's hooks on to. Guess I don't really have to take the Pat's off to do this but its not that big a deal either.

BTW MJPeterson. I'm going to be in Warsaw in October. Looking forward to seeing Poland.

 

[kennyd]

Why not call CCM and see how much it will cost you to swap them for the right cylinder?

 

[canoetrpr]

I'm sure CCM would be great about it. Problem is that shipping to them would be about $50. Shipping back another $50. Then UPS would charge me about $50 x 2 going across the border. I'd also get charged taxes 13% when it comes back and go over a procedure to reclaim those taxes since it was a return ;-)

Thats over $250 or so... :-(

Right now its looking like cutting the lower links down by 4 inches is the best way to go.

 

[kennyd]

WOW!!!!

I think I would look at extending the cylinder mount though...Kind of like the way RedLand Hill makes theirs.

 

[3RRL]

Rob. That is a good idea. I have a lot less confidence than you in ripping into the OEM stuff that came with the tractor ;-). If the lower link is welded right is there any reason to believe that it would be weaker than without the weld? Just want to think twice before cutting into stuff.

Sounds like a much cheaper and easier solution though.

3PT capacity hasn't affected me at all with the Pats. My tractor does not have huge 3PT capacity but everything I have thrown at it, including round bales, it has done without any trouble at all.

Well, attached is a photo of Loretta's original lower 3pt link which was welded at the factory. I suppose my weld is as good as theirs (maybe)?
LOL ... At least it looks as good as their OEM weld (I think )?



If you decide to cut, find the best place to do it. I removed a section where the arm was angled, but near the tractor end. Yours may differ. About your lift capacity, you probably don't need more than you have, but everyone has it's limits. And the farther out you are lifting from, the harder it is. You may not have reached that point yet, but if you maxed it out, it will be less than original. I don't know how much, but I know for sure your lift capacity will be less than original.

I'm sure CCM would be great about it. Problem is that shipping to them would be about $50. Shipping back another $50. Then UPS would charge me about $50 x 2 going across the border. I'd also get charged taxes 13% when it comes back and go over a procedure to reclaim those taxes since it was a return ;-)

Thats over $250 or so... :-(

Right now its looking like cutting the lower links down by 4 inches is the best way to go.

Well, what Kenny suggested is good. I'd at least give them a call. My situation was different because I broke one of their ends off. They shipped me a new one (no charge) AND sent a return UPS sticker for the broken one. It would be worth a phone call anyway. Maybe they'll split the cost or something? My suggestion of altering the lower drag links is an option to the other suggestions you are getting. They will all work. I tend to do stuff "right away" and figured cutting was an easy fix for me. But there sure are alternatives.

 

[canoetrpr]

The machinst that did the valve mount for me was up at my farm and he recommended that we go with the top link extension bracket like the one that was posted about in this thread.

He was a little hesitant to cut through the OEM bottom links. I wasn't able to find any existing welds on them at all so I figured this was best.

I'm sure CCM would have done what they could to replace my link with a longer one but with UPS charging a customs brokerage fee of about $50 each way + shipping expenses it just dosen't make sense. I'm getting charged $100 for the bracket and he's also going to try to get it to me ASAP so that I can play with my new toy

Guess I have no real need to go get a welder and learn to weld when I have a pretty good guy on hand that will take work on for me.

 

[stimpee]

Quick question: How do you tap into the tractor hydraulics to do this? It looks like the one picture of the plate on the side of the tractor with the 3 large hoses gives you 2 hoses feeding the FEL, and one hose going to the spool in the back?

What is the part or parts needed to allow you to do that part of it?

I got a Kubota B3030 a few weeks ago, and am considering adding some remotes to it. I am not sure what I NEED them for yet, but it looks like fun!!

 

[canoetrpr]

stimpee, hooking into the hydraulics is quite easy. You only see three hoses on the hydraulic block because the forth is hidden away.

Your B3030 should plumb pretty much the same way.

There are three hoses that are connected between the hyd block and the loader. One provides pressure fluid to the loader (IN port on the loader valve). One returns used unpressurized fluid back from the loader to the tank (OUT port of the loader) and one that returns unused pressurized fluid from the loader to the next valve in series (PB port of the loader).

The loader is the first valve in series and the 3PT valve (internal) is the last valve. So the loader's PB effectively feeds the IN port of the 3PT valve.

What you need to do is add a new valve in series between the loader and the internal 3PT valve.

To do this:

• Look in your manual to find out which port on the hyd block of the tractor gets the pressurized fluid from the loader. Typically this is the one closest to the rear of the tractor. I think this is labelled (FROM Implement) or something along those lines.
• Unhook this hose from the hyd block and the loader valve. Where it hooked to the loader valve is the PB port of the loader. If you look carefully on the loader valve chances are the PB port of the loader valve is labelled as such.
• Now replace this hose with a longer hose that goes from the PB port of the loader to the IN port of your new remote valve.
• Route a hose from the PB port of your new remove valve to the hyd block where you disconnected the old hose from the loader.
• Once you've done this, your new valve has been added in series between the loader valve and 3PT valve.
• You also need to route a hose from the OUT port of your new valve to the tank to return used hyd. fluid. You can do this in one of two ways. Kubota makes a port plug and O ring that fits right on the spot where you would fill hyd fluid and replaces the plastic cap there. Alternatively you can tee the tank line on the hyd block of the tractor that the loader returns used fluid to (again look at the owners manual for which one is the tank line). Note this is the only line that may be teed as it contains unpressurised fluid.

We'll be happy to help if you have any other questions.