New clutch installed and wont dis-engage the engine

   / New clutch installed and wont dis-engage the engine #11  
What is this in? I have never heard of "Adjusting the fingers" normally it is just bolt the pressure plate to the flywheel. Don't use washers on a permanent install! Do you have pictures, they are worth a 1,000 words. How thick is the old clutch?
 
   / New clutch installed and wont dis-engage the engine
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Hi its the clutch for a Pasquali 988.30 tractor. The fingers need to be adjusted to 20mm up off of the pressure plate surface per the manual which I did but to no avail. The clutch, pressure plate and TO bearing, and cable are all new. Yes I do have some pics but I cannot share them from work. If you look at a previous entry from me I think I have links to the pictures there.

So another person said to try adding washers behind the pressure plate to give some more room for the pressure plate to move and release off of the clutch disk in a different thread (shared in this discussion by someone else) for someone having the same issue.

Bottom line after taking measurements, there is less than 2mm of free space for the pressure plate to move off of the clutch disk and that requires the fingers to be fully pushing against them. I think there needs to be more free room for it to be pulled away from the clutch disk by the fingers. What is the negivite issue with putting washings behind the plate?

If that is a bad Idea then I think im going to put the original clutch disk in, its worn some and is thinner than the new one and doesnt compress.

~ Phil

What is this in? I have never heard of "Adjusting the fingers" normally it is just bolt the pressure plate to the flywheel. Don't use washers on a permanent install! Do you have pictures, they are worth a 1,000 words. How thick is the old clutch?
 
   / New clutch installed and wont dis-engage the engine #13  
This is something I have run into in automotive applications on rebuilt clutches the lining is sometimes thicker and sometimes they will drag until they burn in. I have been known to run down the road in 3rd gear at 20 mph and slip the heck out of them to clean them up.

I wouldn't add washers either imho that will weaken the PP but I might take a sander and sand the hair off of it and re-try it.
 
   / New clutch installed and wont dis-engage the engine #14  
Disc is too thick. Probably a rebuilt with wrong material. Or just the wrong disc.
Joe H
 
   / New clutch installed and wont dis-engage the engine
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Hi Guys thanks for your input, so the big issue is these parts come from Italy so it takes a long time to get parts and they are not cheap.

I can try scuffing the new clutch to take the rough edges off and also IF I was confident it would dis engage I can do the clutch slip thing to burn it in as you said but Im still at a loss as to how do I know I have the clutch adjusted to move enough to lift the plate and free the clutch disk without pushing it too far and bending the fingers....

~ Phil
 
   / New clutch installed and wont dis-engage the engine #16  
Hi! I remember A long time ago. My boss order only a new clutch disk for 5-ton Ford truck The heavy duty one . Impossible to adjust the clutch Missing adjustment. Because if disk is more thick the fingers retracts and dont touch bearing . We fit a standard clutch disk and all was fine. The heavy duty disk ask for heavy duty pressure plate. Now the best is change disk and pressure plate assembly. But can be very expensive. May be your disk is too thick. You need some or good pressure on disk when you bolt the pressure plate on the flywheel. If no pressure or less your clutch can slip and can burnt very fast. I read your measurement and all look ok for me. Good luck! Oldmech
 
   / New clutch installed and wont dis-engage the engine
  • Thread Starter
#17  
So right now from my measurements there is less that 2mm of room for the pressureplate to be moved by the fingers and lift off of the clutch disk and release it. Is that enough room? My real issue is adjusting so I can fully press the fingers down to lift the PP up that 2mm without pushing too hard and bending the fingers...

Hi! I remember A long time ago. My boss order only a new clutch disk for 5-ton Ford truck The heavy duty one . Impossible to adjust the clutch Missing adjustment. Because if disk is more thick the fingers retracts and dont touch bearing . We fit a standard clutch disk and all was fine. The heavy duty disk ask for heavy duty pressure plate. Now the best is change disk and pressure plate assembly. But can be very expensive. May be your disk is too thick. You need some or good pressure on disk when you bolt the pressure plate on the flywheel. If no pressure or less your clutch can slip and can burnt very fast. I read your measurement and all look ok for me. Good luck! Oldmech
 
   / New clutch installed and wont dis-engage the engine #18  
If you could get your money back on the disc I would suggest trying the old disc and see if it releases with the new PP and if so and its useable like you said Id use it and probably wouldn't think twice about it. But with that said it makes me think there mismatched parts but Im just guessing.
 
   / New clutch installed and wont dis-engage the engine #19  
This is a long shot, but years ago I installed a rebuilt transmission and a new clutch in a car and had a similar issue. It turned out that the end of the transmission input shaft had been bent slightly and was hanging up in the pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft.
 
   / New clutch installed and wont dis-engage the engine
  • Thread Starter
#20  
OK I think I have it working, now when I push in on the clutch and manually turn the crank shaft while in gear the tractor doesn't move so I think im ready to hook it all up and fire it up.

What I did is several things tips/suggestions from several people, sorry I have a poor memory so cant remember specifically who supplied each idea.

1 - Scuffed the new clutch disk with sand paper to take the high spots off.
2 - Removed the blockers on the throw out bearing guide pins that kept the throw out bearing from moving further back to allow it to have a longer throw without coming off of the guide pins.
3 - Measured the distance from the throw out bearing surface to the bell housing mounting surface and then adjusted the fingers to be about 1/8" away from that, doing #2 and #3 allows the fingers stand up more and then allow more movement before becoming flat and not providing any more movement.
4 - Moved the clutch cable mounting location lower on the arm to get more movement out of it.

I am able to press all the way down on the clutch and not come up against either the hard stop of the clutch arm or having it get harder to press like the fingers have no more room to move and are bending.

I have to work the next couple of evening so I probable wont get to finish assembling it till Saturday to try firing it up.

Thanks for all your suggestions/help.

~ Phil
 
 
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