New LED lighting for half the price

[woodlandfarms]

I bought those for my tractor. Haven't run them enough at night due to work, but they are nice and bright. I wanted the new 35 watts but wife wouldn't release the purse strings.

 

[5picker]

If you notice, the lamps are good to up to about 30 volts. The lamps are made up of a bunch of 3 watt LED units, the 27 watt ones have 9 of these for 27 watts. [ the 36 watt lamps have 12 LEDs, etc... ]. What they are saying is that the total maximum current draw is 27 watts. I don't know how the circuits are designed, so I don't know if the light output is regulated for any reason. I have 4 of the 27 watts lamps on my tractor, and I measured about 1.5 amp current draw on my Fluke meter... thought it might be wrong, got another meter out, and it was still about 1.5 amp. So, don't worry, be happy..!!!! They sure put out a lot of light....

I can't 100% say for sure about this particular brand but most of these kinds of DC flood lamps have a regulated/switching power supply built into the circuitry of the lamp. (Hence part of the reason for the heavy cast aluminum/finned body) The internal power supply takes any voltage from 10v through 30v and regulates it to the proper voltage necessary for the diodes to produce the brightest lumens. Meaning... the lamp will illuminate just as bright on 12v as it does with 30 volts. With most of these power supplies, the more voltage you feed it, the less draw because the power supply doesn't have to 'work' as hard to compensate. I would guess the 1.5a draw is rated more at the 10-15 volt range (what most of us will see on our tractors) and you'd likely see slightly less than that if you could feed it 30v.

 

[PhilY]

I can't 100% say for sure about this particular brand but most of these kinds of DC flood lamps have a regulated/switching power supply built into the circuitry of the lamp. (Hence part of the reason for the heavy cast aluminum/finned body) The internal power supply takes any voltage from 10v through 30v and regulates it to the proper voltage necessary for the diodes to produce the brightest lumens. Meaning... the lamp will illuminate just as bright on 12v as it does with 30 volts. With most of these power supplies, the more voltage you feed it, the less draw because the power supply doesn't have to 'work' as hard to compensate. I would guess the 1.5a draw is rated more at the 10-15 volt range (what most of us will see on our tractors) and you'd likely see slightly less than that if you could feed it 30v.

Agreed, these LED lamps have a switch mode power supply in them. Each LED in the lamp has a voltage drop of around 3V. On top of this, the control needs a certain amount of headroom so it can operate. So, for a lamp with 7 LEDs in series and a controller, you would need to boost it to at least (9x3V+3V) = 30V just to have it work at full potential. This is done though the use of a boost controller, an inductor and a powerFET. Basically, the concept behind an inductor is to resist the CHANGE in the flow of current through it. So, you can power up the inductor by switching the FET on and shorting the inductor to ground, then turn the FET off and it will continue supplying this power for a given amount of time helping to boost the power for the LED string. When it starts to drop, the cycle just repeats and thus is why it is called a switch mode power supply. The key to keeping LEDs from changing in brightness is to regulate the current going through them. So, there is also a current control regulator at the end of the LED light string.

I recently got a pair of 27W lights for my tractor and this is the current draw of just one light at a few voltages. 12V = 1.95A, 13.8V = 1.5A and 18V =1.15A. 18V was as high as my power supply went.

 

[dnrsslr]

I got my lights yesterday and they are mounted! One was bent in shipping but ledstores gave me $10 off to just keep it. It won't affect the function of the light but it definitely is noticeable if you're close. KUDOS to ledstores! Good communication and great to work with! If you need LED work lights I highly recommend them as a seller! Not the prettiest mounting job but it was easy and it WORKS!

 

[woodlandfarms]

dnrsslr. Does your Ventrac have ROPS? If so, I think you are going to find that they are a better place to mount them. Getting light up high will get you a better close field view. In your setup you will find that the equipment in front tends to create a shadow, and with all the lumens you got coming off the front, the contrast will be pretty high.

Just a suggestion, I wouldn't take them off the bar, just tape / strap / bolt your bar to your ROPS.

 

[dnrsslr]

dnrsslr. Does your Ventrac have ROPS? If so, I think you are going to find that they are a better place to mount them. Getting light up high will get you a better close field view. In your setup you will find that the equipment in front tends to create a shadow, and with all the lumens you got coming off the front, the contrast will be pretty high.

Just a suggestion, I wouldn't take them off the bar, just tape / strap / bolt your bar to your ROPS.

Thanks for your thoughts and advice. No, I don't have ROPS and yes, I wanted to mount them higher. But, I couldn't justify buying ROPS to mount my lights. lol I keep thinking maybe I could build some sort of "frame" to mount the lights higher but just can't figure out how to do it. I guess I'll see how this works in action then decide if I need to do something different.

 

[4shorts]

Guys just a warning. I purchased four lights off LEDstores and me being in Canada they stated they would be sent duty free and tax free. Well this week they showed up. First thing we had to do was pay $32. at the post for taxes and handling and I was not happy considering I had paid $40 already for the shipping. Well it's gets worst. When we got home I opened the box and there was only two lights in the box and the rest was bubble rap.

Right away I emailed LEDstores and the first thing they said was "We sent four lights". Now I don't know how you guys would take that statement BUT I took it as they were accusing me of lying. I might be a lot of things BUT I'm no lair and I'm no thief.

I told them the package was not tampered with in any way and if It had been I don't know of any thief that would steel two lights then care enough about the other two to add bubble rap to the box

Anyway this has been going on for a few days. If it's not settled today I'll get PayPal to get my money.
Beware. That's all I'm saying :confused3:

2pcs 16W CREE LED Work Driving Light Off Road SUV UTV ATV Jeep Toyota Tractor 3" | eBay

 

[5picker]

Thanks for your thoughts and advice. No, I don't have ROPS and yes, I wanted to mount them higher. But, I couldn't justify buying ROPS to mount my lights. lol I keep thinking maybe I could build some sort of "frame" to mount the lights higher but just can't figure out how to do it. I guess I'll see how this works in action then decide if I need to do something different.

dnrsslr,
Just a thought... since you don't have a ROPS, maybe you have more of the angle material you used for the cross piece?
Just add some pieces to the ends at a angles to make them higher. (please see and excuse my crude modification of your photo)
Like you said.. won't be pretty, but it will get them higher and wider if necessary.
If you could find some nice square tubing it would make a better job.

Also not raggin'... just suggesting... at the very least, put some tape over the switch connections and the wire nut. Maybe it's not the final wiring?
Snow from a snow blower has a tendency to blow everywhere except where you want it.

 

[dnrsslr]

dnrsslr,
Just a thought... since you don't have a ROPS, maybe you have more of the angle material you used for the cross piece?
Just add some pieces to the ends at a angles to make them higher. (please see and excuse my crude modification of your photo)
Like you said.. won't be pretty, but it will get them higher and wider if necessary.
If you could find some nice square tubing it would make a better job.

Also not raggin'... just suggesting... at the very least, put some tape over the switch connections and the wire nut. Maybe it's not the final wiring?
Snow from a snow blower has a tendency to blow everywhere except where you want it.

I like your idea with using the angle material to go higher and wider. Too bad it's not as easy to do as it is to draw! But, I think it could be done fairly easily! You mentioned square tubing; would you do it all with the tubing? Are you suggesting it would then be welded rather than bolted together. I'm not sure how to connect the pieces and angles if I use tubing.

Yes, tape over the connections would be good. I was trying to do it fast because I had somewhere else I was supposed to be. But, when the lights arrived, I couldn't just let them sit in the box now could I?!!!! About the wiring; I'm actually thinking it might be better to just wrap the wiring around the screws on the switch rather than crimp them into the spade connectors like I did. Any thoughts on that? I also need a wire clip "thingy" to hold the wire against the tractor. I will probably use the bolt under the word "Drive".

 

[LWG]

Some tractors, like smaller Kabota's, do not have an alternator. They devices that they use to charge the battery puts out more of a pulsed D.C. voltage, and that is what burns out the LED's.

Well, that would be it. The LED lights were the first the round, then the square LED assemblies from eBay. I'm sure they're from China. Despite that, they looked well-made. The castings were decent, and all of the mounting hardware was stainless. My little Case does not have an alternator. I figured that since it charged the battery and ran a little electric fuel pump, it would work fine with the LED lights. It did, for a while. Those lamps put out an impressive about of light. It was a shame they all burned out.