New Member - Looking for first Tractor

[Martian]

I would say you want at least a 35HP if not closer to 40 or more. Since I know green (JD) best I'll base my recommendation off of them and you can find a comparable.

The 3x20 series will likely do whatever you need. If I were you I'd look very closely at a 3520 or 3720. Very capable tractors. You don't want but need a front end loader (FEL). Most versatile part of the tractor. These can run you from $23k and up depending on the goodies.

 

[bigbull338]

for heavy clearing an building projects like your wanting todo,id say get a min of 40hp 4x4 frontend loader hst.an that will do most all of the jobs your wanting todo if not all of the jobs.

 

[AKfish]

Twenty-two acres is a fair sized property. And the slope with rocks... definitely 4x4 and a wide footprint for stability. With woods and logging work you should stay with a R4 tire and a good ply rating.

IMO - it is easier manuvering and creeping through tough spots in the woods with a HST transmission. Also easier skidding and hauling timber and clearing brush out.

Agree with other posting's @ 40 Hp, too.

Good idea to have additional hydraulic SCV's at the rear of the tractor and a 3rd SCV on the loader to operate a grapple.

AKfish

 

[flusher]

I'd look for a 35-45 hp (pto) tractor, HST, 4WD, power steering, FEL with 6-ft wide bucket (chain hooks welded to the bucket, skid steer quick attach is a really useful feature on an FEL), dual rear hydraulic remotes.

My everyday tractor is a 2008 Mahindra 5525 (54 hp engine, 45 hp pto, 2WD, power steering, gear tranny 8F/2R, triple rear hydraulic remotes) with the ML250 FEL (6-ft wide bucket, 2950 lb lift to 10.5 ft high, three chain hooks, skid steer quick attach). Cost: $19K (new). A tractor like this with HST and 4WD would be ~$25K (new).



All of the major tractor brands have similar packages.

Used tractor? Since this is your first tractor, be careful. Take someone with you who knows tractors if and when you want to get into the used tractor market. Used tractors are like rental equipment--some of it is OK, some has been abused. The trick is to know which is which. Here's where experience is invaluable.

Good luck.

 

[Trails2004]

.. The terrain is rugged, lots of brush, many many trees and a lot of loose rock. the avg slope is about 15%. The house will be about 1/4mi from the main road.....

15% slope is fairly steep- it sounds like the area is fairly rocky. I don't think a rubber wheeled tractor is going to serve all your needs- You may need a tracked skid steer or a small dozer..

 

[sriddle1ny]

You picked the right place to start your search. 6 years ago I purchased 26 acres and had never operated a tractor except the pedal type I got when I was 6 years ago (many moons ago) and my only memory was the narrow front was prone to tipping..............

When I first started clearing the build site area I purchased a used 1962 John Deere 3010 Diesel with Front End Loader (FEL), a 7' wide 3-point blower 2-stage and a JD 60 inch 3-point rotary mower/brush hog. I finally finished all the outside work requiring that large of a tractor and in September 2011 sold everything.

I went with a smaller used '04 John Deere 790 with FEL, Mid-Mount 60 inch Belly Mower and a 59 inch Front Mount Snowblower. My decision to go with that tractor was financially driven and the need to do certain tasks quickly; this tractor has a manual stick shift much like a car or truck. If I had the money/need I would have purchased a tractor with a Hydrostatic Transmission (HST). In simple terms you simply push on the accelerator and off you go, the harder you push the faster you go and to go in reverse you push another pedal and it works in the same manner. Now imagine scooping up rocks over and over, pulling backwards then forward to dump, HST comes in real handy vs. a standard shift.

You mentioned you have a 1/4 mile driveway, that's lots of snow to move, couple of thoughts on snowblowers. When I was using the old 3010 I had real issues with the gear ratio going in reverse, I could not keep the RPMs up high enough to feed the industrial size snowblower without the corresponding reverse speed going too fast and hence went through many sheer pins, ridding of the clutch, etc. I remember the first pin I went through I didn't have a clue what had happened or where it was located + going to a local AG Store to learn about the cryptic bolt head markings, need a soft metal bolt for the sheer pin. So, if you go with a 3 point mount snowblower make sure the tractor you buy can support high RPMs to drive the rear PTO while having a corresponding slow reverse speed.

THE NECK, it's nice to go with a Front Mount Snowblower. I spent the $5K for a JD 59 inch front mount blower with all the mounting kits. Looking backwards going down a 1/4 mile driveway will become a task, if you get a 3-point snowblower be sure you have rear lights so you can see in the dark on those cold blowing winter nights. Also I'd suggest 4WD to keep you steady when using a 3 point blower although you can use the right/left brake pedals. My JD59 blower is a fixed mount but you could go with a blower that mounts to your FEL arms and as such you can elevate the blower to tackle large drifts, pull backwards then lower the blower and hit it again. I thought about that but the cost for one of those is well above the 5K I spent, almost double. Be sure to take some time to do an inventory of all the capabilities & add-ons you'll need, the cost of the tractor itself can be very misleading.

Lastly I wanted to mention something I like about John Deere's Support Network; I don't know anything about the other tractor manufacturers so I can't do a comparison. You can search and identify replacement parts for JD tractors by going to their Parts Catalog (link below) I just so happen to have my 790 already in the Model Search.

John Deere - Parts Catalog

I can go into the Parts Catalog and look at my '04 tractor and physically see an illustrated parts breakdown with each part called-out. I can print it out for future reference when searching for a parts supplier or taking it to the JD Dealership. This is the same DB the JD Dealership Parts Department uses to order parts or identify replacement parts for maintenance. This really comes in handy when I'm doing maintenance and want to understand the stuffs around the area I'm addressing. I'm not sure how far back it goes but I could call-up my 1962 JD3010 and identify and order parts. So, when you're looking at purchasing a tractor it's important to understand the support infrastructure as you pull it off the lot.

JD Dealerships will also input all your equipment model and serial numbers into their system for easy retrieval when you visit for parts or scheduled service. Again, I don't know what the other manufacturers have to offer but I've been very happy with John Deere or going "Green" as they say.

 

[Piston]

I'm going to be building a new home on 22 acres of forested property in the very near future. The terrain is rugged, lots of brush, many many trees and a lot of loose rock. the avg slope is about 15%. The house will be about 1/4mi from the main road.

I'm going to need a tractor for the following reasons:

1. Push/Blow Snow
2. Collect/Move Rock (Mostly fist to basketball size but the occasional Laundry Basket size)
3. Move felled timber
4. Maintenance of stone driveway
5. General Landscaping - but I will not be cutting grass with it
6. Moving Heavy objects from front to rear of house (max 1000lbs)
7. Probably a lot of stuff I don't realize yet

You are in a remarkably similar situation as I was/am. I'll tell you what I bought, and what I would buy if I were to do it again.

My uses for the tractor are similar to yours, and I've done some of it, but have a lot left to do. I just purchased 31 acres of sloping land, although not nearly as much as yours. My building site is 8-12% and less in some areas but more in others.

First and foremost. You will need to use your front end loader (FEL) A LOT! You don't want to go without one. I honestly can say that no matter what you buy, figure in the cost of a FEL grapple. After clearing some trees and brush and getting some time under my belt, I would not go without one of these. They are a lot more useful than the bucket when it comes to woods work. I took my bucket off my tractor in (I believe) June of last year, after making some raised bed gardens. It hasn't been back on since.

I do a lot of tree clearing, brush removal/piling, log skidding, and box blading. My ideal, go-to setup, is the grapple on the front end, and the box blade on the back end.

Think about what you'll want to lift, you mentioned about 1,000lbs max around the house, but start getting into land clearing and tree removal and you'll easily and routinely run into logs well over 1,000lbs if you have any decent sized trees. Of course you can cut them smaller/shorter, but depending on what you want to do with your woodworking then you may not be able to. It is also much more efficient to keep them as large as possible.

The slopes are going to be your main factor there, I can't help much with that.

I chose a Kubota L4610 with FEL and added front and rear hydraulics. This is a 45hp tractor, 4x4, and I had to fill the tires with ballast, as well as keep my 1,000lb box blade on the back. I went with this tractor because I got a good deal on it and it was very low hours, stored inside, and in great condition. I wouldn't go new if you can avoid it, but that's just me. By not being able to avoid it, I mean you either need financing, or you haven't bought many used items before, because there are definitely things to look for in used items in general that will indicate whether a tractor is cared for or not. I routinely see a lot of really nice cab tractors for significant amount cheaper than new, enough to buy yourself an older full sized backhoe in addition to your used tractor.

Keep in mind the lift capacity of the FEL. If I were to buy again, which I will eventually, I would go (almost certainly) with a larger capacity lift. I also most likely won't go with Kubota again, although that is only because of personal preference and ergonomics, the tractor itself as performed flawlessly and is an excellent tractor. I looked for a JD, Kubota, or NH when I was looking, I just bought the best used one I found at the time. Now that I know more, I would take a good look at the smaller brands.

Whatever you buy, buy a grapple. The best/nicest tractor in the world, is virtually useless without attachments/implements, so factor in the cost of the implements you will want/need/use.

If you go with HST you probably won't go back (this is the one thing that may keep me from going with a larger tractor) however, if you never have it in the first place, you won't miss it.


Some pics of grapple use here: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/211635-grappling-fun-picture-thread.html

I wouldn't use anything smaller than the tractor I have, both power or frame size. Try to get something equal to, or larger than, an L series Kubota, 4x20 series Deere, or the equivalent of any other model.

 

[imakelotsoawdust]

The guy that cleared trees when we put in the driveway/access road had a skid steer with a grapple. It was amazing to see it in action. I do want to get one if not right away at least at some point. Are there any specific hydraulic requirements I need to look for in order to add a grapple?

 

[Piston]

Yes,
You will need either a rear remote which is simply an additional outlet in the back that you can plug extra hydraulic hoses into, or you will need a 3rd function valve for your FEL.
Of course it's not all that "simple" but to answer your question you do need additional hydraulics. Mine didn't have any, so I added them. You will also want a quick disconnect for the front bucket, so you can easily take the bucket off and put the grapple on. I have the kubota quick attach system which is different than the skidsteer quick attach, however I wish I had the skidsteer quick attach.

 

[IslandTractor]

15% slope is fairly steep- it sounds like the area is fairly rocky. I don't think a rubber wheeled tractor is going to serve all your needs- You may need a tracked skid steer or a small dozer..

First, I agree with Piston's points especially regarding a grapple. It should be part of your initial purchase. Really.

I also had the same thoughts as Trails2004. My sphincter tightens when moving my tractor across even a 12 degree slope. Being in woods that average 15 degrees with bumps and dips that make more extreme angles at times would be a problem for speed of work and an ever present safety issue. I'd suggest checking out the PowerTrac forum here on TBN as those articulated "tractors" have significant advantages on slopes and in woods. Your intended uses actually match up better with the PowerTrac than with a standard CUT.