New to me Jinma 224 : Slew of repairs (throttle, clutch, electrical, ignition, 3pt)

[jbrukardt]

There are 2- separate Hi/Lo levers ? One is in front of the main gear shifter, one is behind the main shifter on the rightside ( From sitting in the seat).Most common configuration, both Hi/lo shifters in Hi, and the transmission shifter in 1st,

Tommy
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Im talking about the true high-low, to the right and behind of the main stick. Not the creeper high low up top on the right. Although that one wont shift either

 

[jbrukardt]

jbrukardt,
I don稚 understand this:
典o switch to high gear, i drop it into neutral on the main gear lever, clutch up, clutch back down and pull up on the hi-lo lever to bring it into high. It moves easily into high . . .

I have not used a 224, but suspect they have the same transmission as the 284. The transmission has a Hi and Lo range. In each of these ranges there are 3 forward gears and 1 reverse. So there are 6 forward speeds and 2 reverse speeds.

I normally run mine in the Hi range. When I want to shift from 1st gear to 3rd gear, I simply put in the clutch and move the gear shift. I only use the Hi-Lo select lever when I want a set of very low gears for a particular 蘇eavy task.

If the 224 has the same setup, please explain why you are involving both the shift and the HI-Lo to switch between Low and High gears.
erj

sure. Perhaps im doing it wrong... theres no procedure in the manual to switch between high and low range (not talking creeper here). The high low lever, behind the main gear shift to the right. It moves up and down. Right now, its in low and is quite slow even in 3rd gear for some tasks.

To try to change ranges, i push the clutch in while in neutral on the main gear lever, and pull up on the high low lever to move it into high. It moves easily, but immediately starts spewing pink (i presume incorrectly filled) atf from the 3 point breather tube.

Normal shifting (1, 2, 3, R) works fine when in low range.

I also want to take a minute to thank everyone here for their patience. Some of this definitely may be user error, or lack of knowledge/understanding from the chinese manual in terms of operation. This is my first real tractor, all my others have been hydrostat garden tractors.

 

[SPIKER]

I rarely ever use that gear shifter on mine. ONLY when I need to really go slow will I drop it into LO range. I use the front shifter (between engine and gear shift) and normally only use H1H and L3H with occasional H2H cruising empty from point to point. I have used H3H on the road a few times but steering on these things is a bit scary at 25mph. I use the L3L and L2L for Rototilling where I really want to grind up some sod as you have to set a stop motion camera to see the thing move lol.

The PUMP is connected directly to the engine and perhaps you are Revving the engine more in LO vs HI which spins the pump faster moving more fluid and or sucking more air.

Mark

 

[jbrukardt]

im not noticing the RPM change too much. All this is happening at dead idle.

Will investigate more. Id like to get it into hi range so i could do similar to you (HH1 for moving around, LH3 for slow work). To get into creeper mode (between engine and gear shift), whats the procedure? Clutch in, move lever forward for high, back for low?

That lever does not seem to budge on mine, its in high currently.

 

[SPIKER]

Most like.y lack of use is causing a lot of the sticky (gear levers not moving etc) issues. usually on mine just push clutch IN and change gears, sometimes to get it INTO a gear/speed I have to let clutch out to move gears some for it to match up and engage. Try and get it functional and drive it around and use it to heat up all the oils then start shifting gears to get them moving easier.

part of original break in procedure is to drive it a while in every gear, shift it back and forth for 30 or so minutes to get everything broken in some then drain & refill it.

Mark

 

[jbrukardt]

Good news today!

I have all the gears working smoothly now, both lo range, high range, and creeper, and seemingly all combinations thereof (although apparently you're not supposed to use creeper in high?). Some of them were really stuck, but after some use they seem to be working smoothly.

And more importantly... no fluid spewing out, which makes a lot more sense. It must have been completely coincidental that the hydro fluid started foaming when i was exercising the high range lever. None of that today.


Two new issues though. One more a comment than an issue

Man that fuse box is archaic.....

Going to try to find a replacement for that so i can use domestic modern fuses


and more concerningly.....

I dont have a differential lock, or perhaps just dont have the lever for it?

That nut in the center should be where the lever is, yes?

And no matter which nut i tighten here, my throttle doesnt lose any slop... am i looking in the wrong place? This should tighten up my hand throttle so it doesnt flop back to idle best i can tell, right?

 

[SPIKER]

That nut that is lose with the lock washer under it is one you tighten up onto the bracket to increase the hand throttle tension.
]That Nut with the Broken shaft in it on the rear end housing is the diff lock lever (well what SHOULD BE the diff lock.) Unscrew the nut & hopefully the broken lever/shaft will come out with it. Then take that and weld on a 12" or so hunk of rod (3/8" rebar would work) and use it. they have a slight crook to them out and back.

The other thread about filters and fluids, try to NOT panic most of the fluids on these things are real tolerant, think of the tractor like you would a 1950 ford tractor maybe even more tolerant...

edit in fuse block is OK and adapting a better one is not too hard. find a 6 or 8 fuse add on block from about anywhere.
Mark

 

[jbrukardt]

@Spiker

When i find 4 or 5 spare hours, my "big" item on the list is to follow your clutch adjustment guide. However, im having a different problem than most it seems. I have trouble getting (and staying) in gear. Sometimes it works, sometimes it does, sometimes i go up a slight incline and slip out of gear. Never any grinding.

Is this something that a clutch adjustment could fix? Or is that indicative of the need to split the machine and put a whole new clutchpack in.

 

[jbrukardt]

Anyone know the part number for the differential lock lever rod, and the knob?

I cant seem to find it on the diagrams in the parts manual on Johnstractor site

Speaking of that, those are awfully hard to read, anyone have a pdf of the parts manual? JPG compression is killing my eyes.

 

[SPIKER]

JBRUK:

The clutch sounds like it is working correctly if there is no grinding or slippage. The issue sounds like perhaps a bent shift fork or lever in the transmission. There is a cover that holds the shifter on (assuming it is the main 1-2-3-R shifter/gears that are popping out) that is easy to come off and inspect the shift lever and forks. I have not had mine off but I think there are adjustment screws/bolts that are STOPS for when pulled all way fore/aft that normally prevents bending of the shifter forks. (As stated prior not sure if these tractors are similar or not) but guessing they are.



I think Tommy sells a full set of manuals for these things with parts dia and all if not mistaken not a bad price. I can look around and maybe make a scan of mine, probably same but not sure.

Mark