New to me Jinma 224 : Slew of repairs (throttle, clutch, electrical, ignition, 3pt)

[jbrukardt]

JBRUK:

The clutch sounds like it is working correctly if there is no grinding or slippage. The issue sounds like perhaps a bent shift fork or lever in the transmission. There is a cover that holds the shifter on (assuming it is the main 1-2-3-R shifter/gears that are popping out) that is easy to come off and inspect the shift lever and forks. I have not had mine off but I think there are adjustment screws/bolts that are STOPS for when pulled all way fore/aft that normally prevents bending of the shifter forks. (As stated prior not sure if these tractors are similar or not) but guessing they are.



I think Tommy sells a full set of manuals for these things with parts dia and all if not mistaken not a bad price. I can look around and maybe make a scan of mine, probably same but not sure.

Mark

Unfortunately i think there is slippage. Indications of that would be the tractor stopping moving when going up an incline when previously moving fine on flat ground, working better in lower gears, and sometimes slowing down when more throttle is given, and then catching again when you let off the throttle right? All those things are happening to me.

When i say slips out of gear, the shifter doesnt move. The whole tractor just stops moving.

By the way, i sincerely appreciate your patience and expertise on this, you've been awesome thus far and i understand a lot of my questions are very newbish. Thank you.

 

[SPIKER]

What you are describing is a lot different than popping out of gear, slippage is bad it will cost $ to fix. More use also can take out the pressure plate as overheating will warp it. When it gets to the point of not moving you may already be too late.

there are some outside adjustments on the linkage that you can try first but almost sounds like damage already done and a split and replacement needed.

hard to say without being there but slippage so bad it stops then it is burnt off all the linings or the clutch fingers/spring/cone washers have failed. I'm pretty sure my cone washer (main spring of the drive clutch) has split or cracked as mine happened all at once. It popped and I lost 50% of my clutch pressure if not more. It is still working but I have to baby it and use lower range gears and NOT try anything that is heavy ground engagement that requires lots of pulling force.

Mark

 

[jbrukardt]

i feared as much. I should be able to see to some degree how bad it is through the inspection window i hope. It would make sense that its trashed with how bad shape the front tires were in, which someone suggested might be because it was run in 4wd a lot in conditions that it shouldnt have been.

Its really hit or miss, every once in a while the clutch fully engages and i can move cleanly and pull my rear blade along no problem (havent tried anything heavier like a plow)

Time to start designing a rolling sled that will help me to split it it seems

 

[jbrukardt]

Any comments on those "external adjustments". Everyone mentions something about a nut on the clutch pedal, but i havent seen any specific guidance other than "dont touch it until you adjust your internal stuff first"

 

[SPIKER]

JB:

the 2nd photo down it shows the external clutch rod and the clevis that has a threaded rod & lock nut on it. it is shinny part to right side there is a text bod that has a line pointing to it and the clutch safety switch.

JMClutchAdj

that is what you can adjust the free play with, however what it almost sounds like now with those two posts above that the ROLL PIN my have sheared on you. There is a internal fork and rod assembly that has a doubled up roll pin in it that often shears. do a quick search in here for it and you will find a good number of incidences of this happening.

mark

 

[jbrukardt]

geez, so many options.

 

[SPIKER]

Hey JB:

took some pics of the handle on the Diff Lock, it has a 2" offset bend in it just above where that jamb nut is broken off at.

Here are the pics.






Mark

 

[jbrukardt]

Good day today. Got my auger hooked up, dug a few post holes, no problems at all, tons of power on the pto, and the drive clutch engaged flawlessly about 75% of the time.

Also got my hand throttle nice and tightened up, need a short handled 18mm wrench to do it, all my wrench sets went from 17 to 19.

Got to visit the brand new Tractor Supply in town, what a joyous day that I now have a tractor supply as of about a month ago. Was very happy to find that out.

 

[jbrukardt]

Hey JB:

took some pics of the handle on the Diff Lock, it has a 2" offset bend in it just above where that jamb nut is broken off at.

Here are the pics.






Mark

awesome. Thank you very much.

purely in coicidence, i found a set of parts drawings today on Circle G that I hadnt seen anywhere else that pointed me to that exact part. I ordered it from Tommy (i think, i had three different orders going from different sites) along with a bunch of other stuff today.

 

[buickanddeere]

Run, run away. It's a high hour, poorly serviced machine that the operator abused by driving in full tie 4x4 plus who knows what else. That is enough to warn anybody away from a solid name brand machine. Add to this machines problems it's a low end off brand.
You will be $$$ ahead and still have something useful in 5 years to make payments on a new name brand machine instead.