LD48750
Veteran Member
I certainly wouldn't let you work that ugly nasty thing on MY property.
How can you even publish pictures of something so unsightly?
Pretty bummed out ------> UPDATE: All Fixed
- Thread starter MXD
- Start date
I certainly wouldn't let you work that ugly nasty thing on MY property.
How can you even publish pictures of something so unsightly?
Well, my driveway's paved now, but initially --and for several years after tractor purchase-- it was gravel.... and we live on a dirt road. That blower's had a pretty tough life, for sure, but it still works! (Man, can that thing shoot rocks!!) :laughing:
PILOON
Super Star Member
That's a mere scar, not even a wound.
Once come spring I decided to elaborate my parking area.
Blower discovered a scrapped alternator under the snow.
Auger twisted beyond repair, gear box exploded and auger shaft was found to be rust frozen solid.
About the only salvageable part was the chute.
Blower was used and had never been greased.
Bad design IMHO in that augers were much too snug a fit on the shaft thus encouraging rust welding.
Later models added zerks for greasing.
Grease and I have become well acquainted after that incident.
Once come spring I decided to elaborate my parking area.
Blower discovered a scrapped alternator under the snow.
Auger twisted beyond repair, gear box exploded and auger shaft was found to be rust frozen solid.
About the only salvageable part was the chute.
Blower was used and had never been greased.
Bad design IMHO in that augers were much too snug a fit on the shaft thus encouraging rust welding.
Later models added zerks for greasing.
Grease and I have become well acquainted after that incident.
PILOON
Super Star Member
A friend snow contractor was blowing a client's drive after a major event and discovered that a snow drift was actually a stack of firewood.
Cost him the whole auger assembly.
wyowy
New member
How often do you grease your snowblower?
CobyRupert
Super Member
I don’t have any grease fittings on mine, but I oil the chains probably every 4-6 hours. I put some grease where the chute rotates once or twice a season.
I spray the surfaces (auger, chute, interior) that touch snow with oil, WD-40, Pam, Turtle Wax spray, silicone, etc.. every 2-4 uses. Depending on what type of snow we’re getting. Turtle Wax spray is my latest, and currently favorite, snow lube.
I spray the surfaces (auger, chute, interior) that touch snow with oil, WD-40, Pam, Turtle Wax spray, silicone, etc.. every 2-4 uses. Depending on what type of snow we’re getting. Turtle Wax spray is my latest, and currently favorite, snow lube.
grsthegreat
Super Star Member
problem with blowers is they pick up rocks and branches. my old farm king unit got pretty busted up over 14 years of use. all cosmetic . i ended up bending things out and adding gussets to strenghten the rotor...things like that.
all cosmetic. but after a few years its going to look like crap anyways.
my new blower is hydraulic. this has totally eliminated any damage caused by branches as the unit goes into bypass before damage is done. but rocks are another matter.
after nearly 9 years of use, i had to relign the interior of the drum in my snowblower. rocks have carved grooves in the old steel. a few holes (very small) were appearing on drum. since i have a metal roller, i cut a new piece of 12g steel and rolled it to match the drum. i had enough clearance from impellers so that was no issue. 4 tack welds later and some black paint. looked good as new. when this wears out, ill grind the welds and replace it again. i live on gravel roads. no way around it. ive tried lining the bottom to leave a few inches of snow on ground...didnt help. still shoots rocks occasionally.
i have 6 grease zerks on mine, get done a few times each winter. depends on amount of blowing ive been doing. this year i have used it 2 times.....dont know why i bothered installing unit this year.
i wash and touch up paint on my plow and blower after every season. they still look pretty good, but will never look brand new.
than neither do i
all cosmetic. but after a few years its going to look like crap anyways.
my new blower is hydraulic. this has totally eliminated any damage caused by branches as the unit goes into bypass before damage is done. but rocks are another matter.
after nearly 9 years of use, i had to relign the interior of the drum in my snowblower. rocks have carved grooves in the old steel. a few holes (very small) were appearing on drum. since i have a metal roller, i cut a new piece of 12g steel and rolled it to match the drum. i had enough clearance from impellers so that was no issue. 4 tack welds later and some black paint. looked good as new. when this wears out, ill grind the welds and replace it again. i live on gravel roads. no way around it. ive tried lining the bottom to leave a few inches of snow on ground...didnt help. still shoots rocks occasionally.
i have 6 grease zerks on mine, get done a few times each winter. depends on amount of blowing ive been doing. this year i have used it 2 times.....dont know why i bothered installing unit this year.
i wash and touch up paint on my plow and blower after every season. they still look pretty good, but will never look brand new.
than neither do i
I don't mind the occasional repair to my 2360 blower attachment. It took me several tries to find the right combination of bolts/pins to be able to use the thing consistently without breaking pins every use, but I finally figured that combo out. The thing that gets me upset is that you have to take the guard off the front of the tractor to mount the "quick hitch", which doesn't work with the loader on the GC1720. If I want to use the blower I have to take the loader off, then take the guard off the front of the tractor, then mount the quick hitch with the snow blower. It seems to me if you want to call it a "quick hitch" you should be able to leave it on the tractor all year long and use it with the loader on. Then all you have to do is remove the loader and mount the blower to the hitch. Seems like a major design flaw to me. Essentially, if I don't want to spend a couple hours mounting the quick hitch every time we get snow I either have to mount the blower for winter and not be able to use the loader and then remove the quick hitch every spring. It should just be able to stay there year round.
That's awful! My 2310 DOES work -- I can drop the blower off (5 minutes) and install the FEL (8 minutes) while leaving the quick hitch in place, use the FEL for whatever, then drop that & re-attach the blower. Don't know why they would have changed that.
The only issue I encounter when doing this is packing the shaft on the quick hitch with snow -- so I just slip a shipping tube over the shaft & guard to keep snow out of it. (And also ensure that it's in the fully raised position before disconnecting that & connecting the FEL hydraulics.)
And yes, I too have to remove the grille guard to get the quick-hitch on, but I just leave it off all winter and put it back on once the snow's --really-- all gone.
One thing you might try with the shear pins -- if you're popping them often, try using less torque when installing them. The spec on mine is a paltry NINE ft-lbs! Tightening more than that essentially pre-loads the bolts so they'll pop very quickly when encountering any resistance. No, I don't use a torque wrench -- I just tighten until I can see the lock washer getting squished but not entirely flat.
The only issue I encounter when doing this is packing the shaft on the quick hitch with snow -- so I just slip a shipping tube over the shaft & guard to keep snow out of it. (And also ensure that it's in the fully raised position before disconnecting that & connecting the FEL hydraulics.)
And yes, I too have to remove the grille guard to get the quick-hitch on, but I just leave it off all winter and put it back on once the snow's --really-- all gone.
One thing you might try with the shear pins -- if you're popping them often, try using less torque when installing them. The spec on mine is a paltry NINE ft-lbs! Tightening more than that essentially pre-loads the bolts so they'll pop very quickly when encountering any resistance. No, I don't use a torque wrench -- I just tighten until I can see the lock washer getting squished but not entirely flat.
JWR
Elite Member
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2011
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- 3,783
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- So MD / WV
- Tractor
- MF 2660 LP, 3 Kubota B2150, Kubota BX2200, MH Pacer, Gravely 5660, etc.
I used my 5ft rear mount Agro-Tech snow blower this week. Run on the back of a B2150 'Bota that also has a nice FEL on it. Heavy frozen/packed snow 20" deep in places that was too cumbersome to do it all with the FEL. Had not had enough snow at my ski region cabin to need the blower in many years. Great combo as you can work in both directions, forward and backwards. Also the creeper range on the B2150 transmission (stick shift) is ideal for blower work. Blower is way to heavy to budge for even an inch of position hooking it up. 800 lbs I think.
Look out ! I roared out of the garage with the blower lifted too high and did some cussing-worthy damage to the garage door when the chute hit !!! Took 2-3 hrs to repair and get the garage door back to usable status and seal out cold air, etc. As one dealer told me a few years ago -- you just had a dumbass attack !
Look out ! I roared out of the garage with the blower lifted too high and did some cussing-worthy damage to the garage door when the chute hit !!! Took 2-3 hrs to repair and get the garage door back to usable status and seal out cold air, etc. As one dealer told me a few years ago -- you just had a dumbass attack !