PTO Drive shaft problem (my latest issue)

   / PTO Drive shaft problem (my latest issue) #51  
?? WTF? I see this forum is just like the others on various subjects. Also several judgemental, snarky posters that feel a need to degrade and humiliate.
@allenport If it helps, I didn't read that as relating to you or this whole thread at all. I took it as a cute comment to the previous post about "helping a neighbor in need." We all know that clueless person who lives their life making bad decisions, where no amount of help will ever be enough. :)
 
   / PTO Drive shaft problem (my latest issue) #52  
?? WTF? I see this forum is just like the others on various subjects. Also several judgemental, snarky posters that feel a need to degrade and humiliate.

Just because I came here for input doesn't mean I didn't spend a lot of time trying to learn about my tractor. Go find someone else to pick on.
Interesting the difference in perspectives. I took the post about being needy as referring to the post above it, getting stuck in ditches. Yes, there are trolls on this site, but they aren't always after you.

One thing I like about your posting is that you report back. My pet peeve is posters that ask for help on a problem and then never let us know what the final solution was.

Keep posting and welcome to TBN.

Doug in SW IA
 
   / PTO Drive shaft problem (my latest issue) #53  
Anyone who has read through this thread and didn't CRINGE just a little either doesn't understand the issues or isn't being honest.

I don't perceive any heckling above. Just people trying to explain the most basic task of removing a three-point mower attachment.

The repair update is much appreciated regarding the final diagnosis. The grinding noise due to not fully engaging the PTO makes perfect sense. It's also about the best outcome (dollars and damage) you could hope for given the symptoms described! Glad you were able to get it resolved!
 
   / PTO Drive shaft problem (my latest issue) #54  
Hmmmm... make that 3 or maybe more types.

The PTO driveshaft on my finishing mower has the twist type. You twist the collar which releases the ball bearings from the groove in the PTO shaft and then you can pull the driveshaft off the PTO shaft. Same for installing. Twist to get it started, then push in place. When the balls go in the groove, the coupling part twists to its locked position.

My bush hog has the spring loaded pin you press... the twist one works WAY easier!

Anyway, thanks for helping the young lady diagnose her problem!
 
   / PTO Drive shaft problem (my latest issue) #55  
Here are three photos. It's hard to take pictures in this location. From here, tell me what angles you want. Note that there is no 'cover' on the tractor pto.

Also, can someone tell me what that chain on the shaft is for?

Sorry. One last thing. Looks to me like the end of the drawbar is hitting the PTO shield and has almost cut it in two. Please take a look if you haven't already checked that. You can either remove the drawbar by just pulling a pin or slide it forward so that it's no longer in conflict. (There are probably several different adjustment points for the drawbar length.)

This is also a typical concern and something to check with any PTO-driven 3-point attachment. (Especially something like a tiller that can drop much lower after it's hooked up.)
 
   / PTO Drive shaft problem (my latest issue) #56  
This happened to me as well on my 2038R. The dealer replaced the bearings in a U joint under warranty. A month later, the electronically controlled gearbox puked it's back half. The dealer said it was now out of warranty and wanted $1,600 for a new box.That was just the part. I am sorry that I purchased the mid mount. PUlled everything off relating to the mower and sold what was possible.
 
   / PTO Drive shaft problem (my latest issue) #57  
Allenport,

About five years ago I bought a tractor after I discovered I really, really needed one. Dealer was helpful in selection, delivered the tractor, unloaded it, and then I was pretty much on my own.

I discovered that there are NO books (that I have ever found) on "tractor operation and safety", most of what I have learned came from asking questions here on TBN and to a lesser extent from you-tube videos. A few midwest states offer tractor operation courses in some high schools, but these seem to be mostly aimed at keeping kids from getting run over or flipping the tractors in transit on public roads.

I also discovered that 99.99% of the people on TBN are honestly helpful and the "snark" factor is very, very low here.

So, at the risk of stating the obvious, here are some of the things I have learned about tractor safety. (My wife is a lawyer and she always tells me to state the obvious ;-)

Be careful and think - tractors are slow but inexorable. Be VERY aware of your surroundings, kids, animals, mud/water/holes, tree limbs, how far the front attachments and rear attachments stick out and how far they will "swing" in a turn. (I came *this* close to taking out my A/C compressor once while I was mowing my lot.) I can destroy almost anything I can drive over, which is just about anything.

Keep the ROPS roll bar up at all times and always wear your seatbelt. If you NEED the seatbelt, you won't have time to put it on.

Wear gloves, use ear protection (shooter's earmuffs from WalMart, $12), eye protection, wear a big hat, and wear sunblock. Stay hydrated.

Never, never, never step over a rotating PTO shaft. If you catch your clothing in or on it, you can be seriously injured or killed in an instant.

When getting onto a tractor or getting off a tractor, remember the rule of three - stabilize yourself with two hands and one foot or two feet and one hand. Sometimes where you step or grab may be slippery, and you'll be able to recover with two points of contact, but likely not with only one.

Don't drive, mow, or operate ON a slope, but ACROSS it. Pay attention to your pucker factor, if you think you are getting close to rolling the tractor, you probably are. Tilting to right or left, bad, tilting fore or aft, OK (within reason).

(Now this one will start a debate.) I like to run my tractor in 2WD so if I get stuck, I can go to 4WD and probably extricate myself. If I get stuck while I was in 4WD, I have no options left. Note that steering response and braking characteristics can be different between 2WD and 4WD. (If I'm stuck in 4wd, there's also a differential lock lever as a last resort - if THAT doesn't work, it is time to call for help.)

When you leave a tractor, shut it down (don't let it sit there idling), lower all attachments to the ground, and set the parking brake, THEN get off, not while anything is still operating or moving. Take the key with you, put it into your pocket.

Sit down next to the tractor with the manual and read it slowly and carefully. You'll be amazed - "Oh, so that's what this does!" You'll want to do this more than once ;-) When all else fails, read the instructions, but be aware that some of it may have lost a bit in translation. Most of them are pretty good, but I have seen a few rather cryptic items from time to time.

Keep up with maintenance. There's someone here on TBN whose sig line reads "Make the time to maintain your equipment or it will make the time for you." Very very true, and far less expensive in the long run. (Covers more than tractors, too.)

I always try to remind myself that the larger the island of knowledge, the longer the shoreline of ignorance. Always keep learning.

Best Regards,

Mike/Florida


Hopefully, some of this will be useful to you.
 
   / PTO Drive shaft problem (my latest issue) #58  
?? WTF? I see this forum is just like the others on various subjects. Also several judgemental, snarky posters that feel a need to degrade and humiliate.

Just because I came here for input doesn't mean I didn't spend a lot of time trying to learn about my tractor. Go find someone else to pick on.
That was a JOKE, allenport, and my reply was directed to kthompson, not you. He was the one who commented about helping a neighbor in need as long as they aren't asking for help constantly. (It's ok to be needy, just not too needy) Thankfully there are some folks on here who understood that. Be well.
 
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   / PTO Drive shaft problem (my latest issue)
  • Thread Starter
#59  
Don't drive, mow, or operate ON a slope, but ACROSS it. Pay attention to your pucker factor, if you think you are getting close to rolling the tractor, you probably are. Tilting to right or left, bad, tilting fore or aft, OK (within reason).T

The owner's manual specifies not to mow on a slope, but across it. No mention of how deep the slope. As for the tilting, if I couldn't drive on a tilt, then I wouldn't be able to mow at all. What's a person to do with undulating land. FWIW, people really ought to read for content and address things accordingly. Assuming someone has not read a manual or been taught tractor operation is an incorrect assumption. As I mentioned several times, I have Kubota mechanics here several times a year and they are wonderful and helpful. Also, I've been driving the tractor for decades to harrow my riding ring. It did not need the pto and that was what was new to me.

Now, to sunandsand, do you consider this slope one that would would not mow on? I mow up and down this slope all the time. To mow across it, would put me on a slant.
 

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   / PTO Drive shaft problem (my latest issue) #60  
The owner's manual specifies not to mow on a slope, but across it. No mention of how deep the slope. As for the tilting, if I couldn't drive on a tilt, then I wouldn't be able to mow at all. What's a person to do with undulating land. FWIW, people really ought to read for content and address things accordingly. Assuming someone has not read a manual or been taught tractor operation is an incorrect assumption. As I mentioned several times, I have Kubota mechanics here several times a year and they are wonderful and helpful. Also, I've been driving the tractor for decades to harrow my riding ring. It did not need the pto and that was what was new to me.

Now, to sunandsand, do you consider this slope one that would would not mow on? I mow up and down this slope all the time. To mow across it, would put me on a slant.

Pretty place!

Yes, I'd mow on that. I'd be a tiny bit cautious if the grass was wet, and in any case, I'd keep the FEL down low to keep the CG low. That slope wouldn't bother me. Ten degrees lean (guesstimated), yes. 15 degrees, hmm, maybe, maybe not. More than that, nope. That's just me, some people are comfortable with greater "leans", I'm not.

Your previous experience is a great help. I've seen lots of people (myself included) who got to start from ZERO - here's your key, thanks for the money (sometimes), bye.

I absolutely agree that people should read for content but unfortunately, often they don't. Also, sometimes there IS no content to read, and that can result in disaster. Friend of mine bought an expensive stump grinder for his big JD tractor. There was NO documentation, period! We put it on the tractor and I noticed that all the grease fittings looked really, really dry. After we found them all (we hope) and lubed them, he was about to fire it up and I wondered aloud if there was any oil in the (expensive) gearbox.

Absolutely bone dry.

A quart of Hypoid 90 fixed that, and you KNOW if he had run it dry and burned it up the vendor would have claimed abuse and denied the warranty. I e-mailed them "Hey, you might save everyone a lot of trouble, yourself included, if you put a ten cent bright red paper sticker on the gearbox "No Oil!" (But then someone would misinterpret it as not needing any, and ruin it anyway . . . )

Never got a response.


Problem is that a lot of this is not intuitive, we don't know what someone else knows or doesn't know, and I'd rather say a few things someone DOES know (and doesn't need) than leave out something they didn't know and do need. Typing's cheap, tractor parts and bandages are not ;-)

Best Regards,

Mike/Florida
 
 
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