Buying Advice Purchase recommendations please

[dmackwa]

I have three primary needs for a small used tractor. Listed in desending order:

1.) Move boats on double axle trailers from a level gravel road in to and around a smooth floor warehouse - Trailer/boat gross weight(s) approximately 6000# - tongue weights 5-600#

2.) Trailer materials around a sloping garden

3.) Potential to use a larger tractor to launch and recover boats/trailers on a concrete boat ramp. Currently using a four wheel drive truck but the approach is down a 5-10% grade, narrow, crooked and visibility is impared.

I have not been on a tractor since my grandfathers 43 Ford. Looking forward to seeing my grandchildren drive a tractor.

I'm thinking a compact or subcompact 4x4. Hours - 5-10 a year.

Your thoughts and recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

dmm
Chelan, WA

 

[murphy1244]

I'm thinking a used Kioti ck or a Kubota B series tractor. What dealers are within 50 miles of you?

 

[dmackwa]

Tks for the response. There is a Kubota dealer within 30 miles and a Kioti about 100 miles away. I assume the older tractors have many hours on their engines but have no feel for what the acceptable range is - thoughts?

 

[treetrimmer01]

Any 4 wheel drive tractor with a loader that weighs a little more than the boat and trailer that you are going to be moving will do you a good job. Put your ball trailer hitch on the front top of scoop. You can pick up the trailer with the ball and go. It is very easy to back the boat with it hitched to the scoop as you can turn very quick with the front wheels. Be sure the tractor weighs as much or more than the boat and trailer that you are launching or going down the 5 to 10 % grade boat ramp to launch can be dangerous. You don't want the boat to drag the tractor with the tractor's brakes locked. Don

 

[MossRoad]

He's going to have a tough time finding a 6000# 4wd tractor to use only 10 hours a year for any kind of reasonable price.
Also, 5% grade is less than 3 degrees. 10% grade is less than 6 degrees. That's a very shallow slope. A 6 degree slope is only a 1.1' rise in 10'.
I would say this....
If you are already using a 4x4 pickup to move the boats on a narrow, crooked, limited visibility ramp.... consider putting a ball hitch on the FRONT of your pickup truck. I used to work at a couple airports. One of my duties was to move airplanes in and out of hangars. It is extremely similar to moving boats, but mistakes are much more expensive! :laughing: Among tugs, modified lawn tractors and pickup trucks, the common theme is keep the work in front of you. It is so much easier to push a trailer in front of you with the steering wheels close to the pivot point of the hitch than it is to back up a trailer. Trust me. I know what I'm talking about on this issue. You won't be sorry.

 

[motownbrowne]

Yeah, for 5-10hrs/year, it'd be hard to justify a new or even used tractor. Is there nothing else you want to do with a tractor? I agree about the front mount trailer hitch, it makes moving trailers a breeze. I wouldn't be worried about hours on the tractor, if you're only putting on 10/year. Honestly any old 8n, would do the trick, just make sure the brakes work and it has a gear splitter for nice low gears.

 

[GManBart]

I'd look for a compact tractor with 4x4 that weighs around 3,000lbs. Then I'd buy/make a trailer mover for the FEL (maybe on a SSQA plate) so you can drive right up to the trailer, drop the FEL to get the ball under the hitch, raise it up, and not have to fuss with lifting the trailer onto the ball. As previously mentioned, driving forward makes moving trailers much easier. I've also see someone drill/cut a hole in a forklift attachment fork, and put a trailer ball through the hole....it worked like a trailer mover most of the time, and 1min with a wrench turned it back into useable forks.

 

[Looking4new]

I'm am one of the guys that say put a hitch on the front of the truck.

 

[GManBart]

I'm am one of the guys that say put a hitch on the front of the truck.

Might be hard to trailer materials around the "sloping garden" with that setup.

 

[dmackwa]

Gentlemen - thank you for the input. Perhaps I am combining too many tasks for one tractor. I do have a front hitch on my 4x4 truck which accomplishes the launch/recovery task - but leaves little margin for manuvering error given the truck wheelbase and the narrow approach road (which cannot be widened). I can also use the truck to position boats in the storage building but once again the size of the truck makes close positioning difficult.

I will stay with the truck for launch/recovery and look for a small tractor for general use and to position the boats for storage.

Thanks for help with my 'luxury' problem.

Don McArthur

 

[motownbrowne]

Gentlemen - thank you for the input. Perhaps I am combining too many tasks for one tractor.

Actually I think it's the opposite. One small tractor will do WAY more than the tasks you've listed. Tractors now are many times more capable than your grandpa's Ford. How much property do you own? Find a buddy who has a 25-50hp 4x4 tractor with a loader who'll let you play around on it. You'll be amazed. Tasks like snow removal, moving materials like soil, gravel, mulch, etc become effortless. Get some pallet forks and move logs, firewood, anything you want to put or buy on pallets. Then there's the three point, mowers, box blades, splitters, tillers, the list goes on. All of that stuff can be bought used too. Get the idea? If you can afford a cut, buy one, but I bet (and hope) you'll find more use for it than 10hrs/yr.

 

[Gary Fowler]

An option rather than a tractor is a Kubota RTV 900 or 1100. I use my 900 to move my boat (not 6000 #) but the RTV's are heavy enough to tow a boat up and down a normal ramp easily and when putting a ball on the front it makes the boat very maneuverable + with the hydraulic dump bed, it can haul a lot of material and unload it with a touch of a lever.
Of course it wont have a FEL and no 3 PH for attaching plows etc, but it is very good for running around in to save a lot of steps.